Month: March 2017

I have a new pattern for you today.  I had a great time creating it and I hope that you have as much fun making it. 

You will need to both knit and crochet to make this lacey cardigan.  If you crochet but don’t knit, this is a great project for you to learn a new skill as it is very easy knitting.  If you knit but don’t crochet, this is a great project for you to take that step forward.  The sleeves are simple to make; the edging and collar is a little more challenging but you know that you can learn the stitches.  All it takes is a little practice.

There are five sizes included in the pattern for adults only at this point but I am working on a pattern in a finer weight for kids.  I hope to have that one ready for you in a couple of weeks.  In the meantime, enjoy!

Lovely Lacey Cardigan

Adult sizes

Sizes: 90cm, 100cm, 111cm, 121cm, 132cm or 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52” actual measurement when cardigan is closed.

Materials: 700 to 850m single ply medium 4 weight yarn (pictured).  You could use a regular twisted worsted weight as long as it is not too stiff for the lace.

Tools: 8mm, US 11 knitting needles, 6.5mm, US K/10.5 crochet hook, removable stitch marker, large tapestry needle, six buttons, optional stitch holder.

Gauge:          Knit: 14 stitches x 16 rows = 10cm or 4”

Crochet: 9 ch1, dc x 9 rows = 10cm or 4”

Abbreviations:

Knit:                                       K = knit              P = purl

K2tog = knit 2 stitches together

Crochet:                                ch: chain

sc: single crochet

hdc: half double crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

Back: Cast on 61 (69, 75, 81, 90) stitches.  I used a long tail cast on as it works the first row with the cast on but you can use whatever your favourite is.

Work stocking stitch straight (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side) for 30cm, 12”.  If you want a longer cardigan, keep knitting until you reach the underarm length that you want minus 10cm or 4” that the crocheted edging adds.

Decrease for armhole:

Rows 1 and 2: Cast off 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) stitches at the beginning of the row.

Rows 3 and 4: Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the row.

Row 5: K2tog through the back loop, knit to end, K2tog.

Row 6: Purl.

Row 7: K2tog through the back loop, knit to end, K2tog.

You will have 47 (55, 59, 65, 72) stitches remaining.  Continue in Stocking Stitch until the piece measures 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm or 8.25 (8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25)” from the beginning of the armhole shaping, ending on a wrong side (purl) row.

Back Neck Shaping:

Row 1: Right side row, K15 (18,19, 21,24), cast off 17 (19, 21, 23, 24) stitches), K15 (18, 19, 21, 24).  You will work the shoulders separately starting with the left side.

Left Shoulder:

Row 2: P13 (16, 17, 19, 22), P2tog, turn.

Row 3: K2tog, K12 (15, 16, 18, 21), turn.

Row 4: P11 (14, 15, 17, 20), P2tog.

Cast off remaining 12 (15, 16, 18, 21) stitches or, if you like to join the shoulders with a three needle bind off, place the remaining stitches on a stitch holder.

Join yarn at neck edge of the right shoulder (wrong side)as you have already worked the first row of the neck shaping.

Right Shoulder:

Row 2: P2tog, P13 (16, 17, 19, 22), turn.

Row 3: K12 (15, 16, 18, 21), K2tog, turn.

Row 4: P2tog, P11 (14, 15, 17, 20).

Cast off remaining 12 (15, 16, 18, 21) stitches or place them on a holder for three needle bind off.

Front:  Instructions are given for the left side.  Reverse the armhole and neck shaping for the right side of the front.  Cast on 31 (34, 38, 42, 45) stitches using whichever cast on you used for the back.  I used a long tail cast on.

Work Stocking Stitch for 30cm, 12” or to match the back piece to armhole if you have changed the length.

Shape Armhole:

Row 1: Cast off 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) stitches at the beginning of the next knit row, K to end.

Row 2: P all stitches.

Row 3: Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the row, K to end

Row 4: P all stitches.

Row 5: K2tog through the back loops and K to end.

Row 6: P all stitches.

Row 7: K2tog through the back loops and K to end.

Work in Stocking Stitch until piece measures 12 (13, 14, 14, 15) cm or 5 (5.25, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75) ” from the beginning of the armhole shaping.  You are now going to start the front neck shaping.

Front Neck Shaping:

Row 1: At the beginning of the wrong side (purl) row, cast off 6 (6, 8, 9, 9) stitches and P to end.

Row 2: K

Row 3: Cast off 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) stitches, P to end.

Row 4: K all stitches.

Row 5: P2tog, P 12 (15, 16, 18, 21).

Row 6: K11 (14, 15, 17, 20), K2tog.

Work the remaining 12 (15, 16, 18, 21) stitches in Stocking Stitch until the front armhole length matches the back piece.

Work the Right Front reversing the shaping given above.  Row 1 will begin on a right side row so knit instead of purl. Row 2 will be purled, etc.

You have finished the knitted part of the pattern here.  You may block these three pieces and sew together the shoulder (or join with a three needle bind off) and side seams.

 

Bottom Lace Edging: Attach your yarn at the bottom front edge of the left side with the right side facing you.

Row 1: ch1 to start, sc in each cast on stitch across the bottom edge to the right front edge, ch3 and turn.

Row 2 to 5: dc into second sc in first row, *ch1, dc in every second sc* across, ch3 and turn. On the last (5^th) row, ch6 and turn.

Row 6: sc into third dc, *ch5, sc into every second dc in row below*, ch 1 and turn.

Row 7: *sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc in each ch5 space across.  Do not fasten off as you will continue with the same yarn to make the front bands.

Right front band:

Row 1: With right side facing, work 77 sc evenly from the bottom of the edging to the neck line, ch1 and turn.  If you have increased the length, you will need to add a sc for each extra row that you knit.

Row 2: Buttonholes are worked now.  Sc in first sc, *ch1, skip next two sc, sc in next 10sc*, repeat four times, ch1 skip next 2 sc, 16sc, ch1 and turn.  Again, if you have added length, you will need to add a buttonhole for every extra 12 rows that you knit.  If you have only added less than 12 rows, I would leave the buttonholes as they are which will make the bottom one higher.

Row 3: sc in each sc, working 2 sc in each ch1 space for buttonhole.  Do not turn as you will continue around the neck to the left front.

Neck band: 2sc in last sc on corner, sc in the side each of the two sc at the row ends, 20 (20, 23, 25, 29) sc in front neck edge, working 1sc over 2 knit stitches at the neck curve, 23 (25, 27, 29, 30) sc across back neck, 20 (20, 23, 25, 29) sc across left front neck edge, easing the curve as with the right side.  You will now work the left front band and come back to finish the neck after that.

Left Front Band:

Row 1: ch1, 77 sc evenly down the left front edge to the bottom of the crocheted edging, ch1 and turn.  As with the right side, if you have lengthened the knit part you will have to increase the number of sc’s by one for each extra knit row.

Row 2: sc in each sc, ch1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc, fasten off.

Neck and collar: With the wrong side of the garment facing you and starting on the left front piece, join yarn to last sc at the neck edge.

Row 1: sc in each sc across third from last sc, ch6 and turn.  You will leave the last two sc unworked as an overlap for the front bands.

Row 2: sc in fourth sc in row below, *ch5, skip three sc and sc in fourth*, ch1 and turn.  The last sc will be in the third sc from the end to allow for that front band overlap.

Row 3: 6sc in each ch5 space across, ch3 and turn.

Row 4: dc in next sc, *ch1, skip next sc, dc in next* across, ch1 and turn.

Row 5: 2sc in each ch1 space across, ch3 and turn.

Row 6: sc in third sc from start, *ch6, skip 5sc, sc in next sc* across to, ch3, skip next sc and sc in last sc, ch1 and turn.

Row 7: 4sc in ch3 space, *sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc in next ch6 space* to last ch3 space, work 4sc, fasten off.

 

Sleeves (Crocheted): Make 2 alike.  Using your 6.5mm or US K/10.5 crochet hook, ch 32 (32, 34, 34, 36) and join to form a ring.  This is the bottom edge of your sleeve.  You will be working in the round so do not turn.

Rnd 1: ch3, skip first ch, dc in next ch, *skip next ch, ch1, dc in next ch*, repeat * to * around to first ch3, ch1 and join in second ch of ch3.

Rnds 2 and 3: ch3, dc in the next dc in the round below, *ch1, dc in next dc below*, repeat * to * around to first ch3, ch1 and join in second ch of ch3.

Rnd 4: ch3, dc into first ch1 space, *ch1, dc in next dc below*, repeat * to * around to first ch3, ch1, dc into the last ch1 space, ch1 and join in second ch of ch3. Two dc increases made.

Rnds 5 to 8: Repeat rounds 1 to 4.

Rnd 9: ch3, dc in the next dc in the round below, *ch1, dc in next dc below*, repeat * to * around to first ch3, ch1 and join in second ch of ch3.

Rnd 10: ch3, dc into first ch1 space, *ch1, dc in next dc below*, repeat * to * around to first ch3, ch1, dc into the last ch1 space, ch1 and join in second ch of ch3. Two dc increases made.

Rnds 11 to 22: Repeat rounds 9 and 10 six times. Fasten off and cut yarn.  This if the underarm “seam” which you will tag with a stitch marker.

Row 23: Shape sleeve cap, you will start working back and forth with this row.  Join your yarn in the third dc from where you fastened off and ch3, dc in the next dc, *ch1, dc* in each dc in the round below to and, including, the third dc from the marker, ch3 and turn.  Four dc’s decreased.

Row 24: dc in the second dc, *ch1, dc* in each dc across to the end, ch3 and turn.

Row 25: skip the first dc, dc into second dc of row below, *ch1, dc* across to last 2 dc’s, skip the first of the two and ch1, dc into the last.

Row 26: * dc in the second dc, ch1, dc* in each dc across to the end, ch3 and turn.

Row 27 to 31: skip the first dc, dc into second dc of row below, *ch1, dc* across to last 2 dc’s, skip the first of the two and ch1, dc into the last, ch3 and turn.  Two dc’s decreased on each row.

Row 32: dc into the second dc, *ch1, dc across, fasten off at the end.

Cuff:

Rnd 1: Right side facing, attach the yarn at the bottom edge of the sleeve at the beginning chain joining.  Ch1, 2sc in each ch1 space around, join.

Rnd 2: Ch5, sc in third ch from start, *ch4, sc in every third sc around*, ch4 and join in first sc.

Rnd 3: *sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc* in each ch4 space around.  Join in first sc and fasten off.

 

Set in sleeves, weave in all ends, and block the lace lightly.  Sew six buttons on left front band to match buttonholes on right.

 

 

Are you like me and have a whole bin of mini skeins and ends of big skeins that are at least 9m or 10 yds long and just too pretty to toss?  I decided to put all of my longs pieces, okay some of my long pieces, to use and created a sideways knit cardigan that uses the colours in a gradient arrangement between plain black.  I have published the pattern on Ravelry and I am also posting it here for you to create your own lovely work of art.

You can use a variety of weights and textures for the stripes as the basic garter stitch of the sideways knit body hold the differences together nicely.  It is possible to up or down size this cardigan but you will need to calculate the difference in size in the front and back pieces or the sleeves, which are worked bottom up, will need to be adjusted as well.

Gradient Striped Jacket

The pattern as written fits a 46” bust with no ease.  You can up or downsize it by adding or subtracting pattern repeats at the fronts and backs.  If you adjust under the arms, you will have to fiddle with the sleeves to make it fit.

Cardigan as knit is 72cm or 18.25” from the back neck to the bottom.

Gauge: 20 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches or 10 cm unblocked

Materials: 600gr worsted weight yarn, 9m, 10 yd lengths of contrast yarn in a variety of colours, weights and textures.  I used sample skeins arranged in a gradient sequence for the contrast and machine washable wool for the main colour.

Tools: one 80cm or 32” 5mm, US 8 circular needle to hold all the stitches. Jacket is knit back and forth. 5mm crochet hook to finish the edge of the neck if you want a tighter finish.

Note: The jacket body is worked in one piece from left front edge to right front edge.  Even rows are right side of garment.  Contrast row pattern is worked over two rows, beginning and ending at the bottom edge so that sewing in the ends is easier.

Stripe Pattern: (always begin at bottom edge of jacket):

Rows 1 to 10: With main colour, work garter stitch (knit all stitches).

Row 11: With one of the contrast yarns, k2 *(yo, k2tog)*, repeat * to * until one stitch remains, k1.

Row 12: With same yarn, purl all stitches.

Left Front:

Cast on 105 stitches with main colour and knit 9 rows.  For a shorter cardigan, decrease the number of cast on stitches by two’s.

Begin pattern:

Row 10 to 19: With main colour, knit all stitches.

Row 20: With a contrast yarn, k2, (yo, k2tog) to last stitch, k1.

Row 21: With same contrast yarn, purl all stitches.

Rows 22 to 28: With main colour, knit all stitches.

Row 29: Begin to increase for the neck edge. Knit until one stitch remains, m1, k1.

Row 30: Knit all stitches.

Row 31: Repeat row 29.

Continue increasing at the neck edge, while maintaining the stripe pattern, until there are 112 stitches on the needle.  Next row at neck edge, cast on 23 stitches for a total of 135 stitches on the needle.

Left Front Shoulder:

*To make the shoulder, work 33 rows, maintaining stripe pattern and end the last row at the shoulder.*

Left Armhole:

Cast off 40 stitches at the beginning of the next row to begin the armhole shaping and, maintaining the pattern, work to end.

Knit one row from bottom edge to armhole edge.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next row and, maintaining the pattern, work to end.

Knit one row from bottom edge back to armhole.

Cast off one stitch at armhole edge for a total of 89 stitches remaining on the needle and, maintaining the pattern, work to end.

Maintaining stripe pattern, work    rows before beginning to increase for the left back shoulder.

At the armhole edge of the next row, cast on 1 stitch.

Knit one row from bottom edge to armhole edge.

At the armhole edge of the next row, cast on 5 stitches.

Knit one row from bottom edge to armhole edge.

At the armhole edge of the next row, cast on 40 stitches for a total of 135 stitches.

Left Back Shoulder:

Repeat the Make the Shoulder instruction from * to * above.

Back Neck edge:

At the beginning of the next row, cast off four stitches for a total of 131 stitches.

Continue working in stripe pattern for    repeats, cast on 4 stitches at the neck edge of the next row.

Back Right Shoulder:

Repeat the Make the Shoulder instruction from * to * as above.

Right Armhole:

Repeat the same instructions for shaping as the left armhole.

Front Right Shoulder:

Repeat the Make the Shoulder instruction from * to * as above.

Right Front:

Cast off 23 stitches at the neck edge for a total of 112 stitches remaining on the needle.

Maintaining stripe pattern, decrease at the beginning of the row at the neck edge, k1, k2tog, k to end 7 times for a total of 105 stitches remaining.

Work one more pattern repeat.

With main colour, knit 9 rows (the rest of the front will be worked with the main colour only.

Buttonholes:

Make 5 buttonholes, evenly spaced from neck edge: k5, *(yo, k2tog, k13)* repeat until there are 35 stitches remaining, k35.

Knit 10 rows.

Cast off 105 stitches.

Sleeves:

Note: the sleeves are worked bottom to top, not side to side.  The patterning will make the cuff which is folded up so your sleeve will seem too long when you are working it.  You just need to allow for the turned up cuff when you are measuring for length.

Cast on 50 stitches and work 3 pattern repeats.

Begin stocking stitch by purling all stitches on the next row which will be the wrong side of your work.

Work 28 more rows of stocking stitch so that you end with a purl row.  Begin increasing to shape your sleeve by making one stitch on each side every 6 rows until you have 70 stitches on your needles.  You may use your favourite increase as long as it doesn’t leave a hole.  I increase by: K1, lift the bar between this stitch and the next one and place it over the left hand needle, knit into the back of this loop to twist and tighten the stitch made and knit the rest of the row.

Note to adjust sleeve length:  If you have shorter arms, measure when you are half way up your sleeve to see if you need to adjust the increases to every 4 rows to reach 70 stitches and have the sleeve the right length.)  If you have longer arms, measure, not including the patterned cuff, to see if your sleeve is the right length.  You can continue to work stocking stitch with no more increases if your sleeve is too short.

Shape armhole:  Cast off 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Work 10 rows of stocking stitch ending with a purl row.

Next (K2tog through the back loop, K to last 2 stitches, K2tog) and work 3 more rows of stocking stitch.  Repeat 4 more times.

Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows.

Cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows.

Cast off remaining 10 stitches.

Block the sleeves, not including the patterned cuffs and sew the seam closed.  When you are seaming the cuffs, make sure that you sew on the wrong side so that the seam is inside the cuff when you fold it back.  Sew shoulder seams and set in the sleeves.  Sew on the buttons and you are done.

I worked a row of single crochet around the neckline to finish the edge.

I did not block the body of the sweater as I liked the pattern as it was knit without any stretching.

Cardigan Back

 

 

I promised to share my bread recipe with you and here it is.  Sunday is my usual baking day; the house always smells fanatastic!

Beautiful Bread

This recipe is a staple that I use over and over.  It makes three loaves or a combination of loaves and buns.  Both forms are delicious and keep well.  I use a stand mixer to knead the dough but I have also done it by hand.

1 tbsp and 2 tsp of traditional yeast

1 tsp of honey

½ cup of warm water

Mix the honey and warm water and add the yeast.  Stir gently and set aside while you put the rest of the ingredients together.

5 cups of whole wheat flour

2 cups of all purpose flour

½ cup each of sesame, sunflower and pumpkin seeds or any other that you like.

2 tsp of salt

¼ cup of honey

½ cup olive oil or avocado oil

Mix these together in a large bowl or the bowl of your stand mixer.

2 cups or more of warm water.

Stir in the waiting yeast which should be foamy.  Stir in 2 cups of warm water and start the mixer on low or mix in by hand.  Add more water if the dough is too stiff.  I live in a very dry climate so I usually need an extra ¼ cup of water.  Knead the dough for five to seven minutes.  Place in an oiled bowl (cooking spray works well too) and oil or spray the top.  Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm spot to rise; let double.

When the dough has doubled in size, turn it out onto a board or the counter and shape your loaves or buns.  I spray the loaf pans but you can grease them with butter or oil if you wish.  I use parchment on the bun pan but, again, you can grease the pans if you wish.  Place in a warm spot to rise and, when almost doubled, start your oven to heat to 400F.  Bake your bread for ten minutes, turn the oven down to 375F and bake for another fifteen to twenty minutes.  Turn out onto a rack as soon as you remove the bread from the oven.

This little shoulder scarf is very pretty draped around a jacket or over a blouse to add a little warmth and pizzazz to you outfit.

The scarf is knit with worsted weight yarn so works up quickly.  If you are new to knitting, it will give you an introduction to changing directions in knitting, garter lace, and decreasing to make a garment fit.  All of that learning and you will have a lovely accessory at the end.  If you are an experienced knitter, you will find that this is just challenging enough to hold your interest but still is a relaxing project to work on.

It is a great gift for your knitworthy friends and family that can be made in any worsted weight yarn.  Divide the lace and top into two different colours for a vintage look.

Enjoy!

 

Curved Shoulder Scarf

A curved shoulder scarf shaped with short rows and decreases and edged with old fashioned garter lace which is knit first.  I used a diamond edging but any 12 row garter lace edging up to about 15 stitches wide could be substituted.  Please note there are now two different garter edges at the top of the scarf; one is straight and the alternate curved to cover the ends of the lace.

Needles: 6.5mm (US 10.5), 80cm (32”) circular needle, two stitch markers.

Yarn: any worsted weight yarn.  I have used DK to the heavy worsted pictured above.

Abbreviations:

K = knit                                               P = purl

K2Tog = knit 2 stitches together       K3Tog = knit 3 stitches together

YO = yarn over                                   W&T = wrap and turn, turn work, slip the last unworked stitch onto the left hand needle, bring the yarn to front, slip the stitch back to the right needle and bring the yarn to the back, reverse front to back on purl rows.

Diamond Garter Lace Edging:

Cast on 9 stitches

R1: K3, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K1, YO, K1

R2: (K1, P1) x 3, K4

R3: K2, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K3, YO, K1

R4: K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P1, K3

R5: K1, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K5, YO, K1

R6: K1, P1, K5, P1, K1, P1, K2

R7: K3, (YO, K2Tog) x 2, K1, K2Tog, YO, K2Tog

R8: K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P1, K3

R9: K4, YO, K2Tog, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog

R10: (K1, P1) x 3, K4

R11: K5, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog

R12: (K1, P1) x2, K5

Work 21 repeats of the edging, cast off with row 12 of final repeat and leave the last stitch on the needle.

Body of scarf:

Pick up and knit 125 stitches along top edge of diamond lace (126 stitches total including the one on your needle to start).  If you pick up one stitch between each knot at edging row ends, you will have a smooth join.  If you pick up in the knots, you will have a seam.

R1: Wrong side of work, purl all stitches.

R2: K1, (YO, K2Tog) to last stitch, K1.

R3: Purl all stitches, placing a marker after 42 and 84 stitches, dividing the work into 3 equal sections.  This is where you will decrease to shape the shoulders.

R4: Knit to 1^st marker, slip marker and work a left leaning decrease by slipping the two stitches after the marker knitwise, slipping them back to the left needle and knitting them together.  Knit to 2 stitches before the next marker, knit these 2 stitches together for a right leaning decrease and slip marker.  You will work every right side row this way until 22 stitches remain between the markers. Knit to 37 stitches after the last marker, wrap and turn (W&T).

R5: Purl across working 37 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R6: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 32 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R7: Purl across working 32 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R8: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 27 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R9: Purl across working 27 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R10: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 22 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R11: Purl across working 22 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R12: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 17 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R13: Purl across working 17 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R14: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 12 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R15: Purl across working 12 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R16: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 7 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R17: Purl across working 7 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R18: Knit to 1^st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 2 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R19: Purl across working 2 stitches after the last marker, W&T.

R20: Knit to end picking up the wraps at W&T and decreasing at the markers.

R21: Purl across to end picking up the wraps at W&T.  If you are going to knit the Alternate Edge, cut your yarn here, leaving all of your stitches on the needle and go to the Alternate Edge Instructions at the end of the pattern.

R22: Knit across, decreasing between the markers and removing the markers as you go. 106 stitches remain on your needle.

R23: Knit (wrong side).

R24: (K8, K2Tog) x 10, K6. (96 stitches remain)

R25-27: Knit.

Cast off loosely, weave in ends and block.  I always give my knitting a good tug in all directions before blocking to even out the stitches, a throw back to when I learned to machine knit.

Alternate Edge: See note below

R22: With the right side of your scarf facing you, start at the bottom edge of the lace and pick up and knit 12 stitches along the side (9 on the lace and 3 on the body of the scarf).  Continue knitting the stitches that are on your needle, decreasing between the markers and removing the markers as you work. Pick up and knit 12 stitches across the end of the scarf (3 on the body and 9 on the lace). (130 stitches)

R23: Knit all stitches.

R24: K19, K2 Tog, (K8, K2Tog) x 9, K19 (120 stitches).

R25-27: Knit.

Cast off loosely, weave in ends and block.

Note: If you are using a yarn without much stretch, you should increase 1 stitch on R24 between stitches 11 and 12 and in the same place at the other end to allow your edge to curve when block

Well, it is Friday again already!  Actually, I am writing this Thursday afternoon but it is close enough to Friday to count, right?

 

I made this hat for craft sales and wrote the pattern some time ago as a paid pattern.  It is now free for you to make your own if you like to have a cute and warm toque for your little one and, with a small adjustment of increasing by increments of six stitches, your not so little one.  You need worsted weight yarn (I used an acrylic such as Red Heart, Bernat or Loops and Threads), a small amount of stuffing and know how to knit in the round or how to adapt the pattern to knit flat.  If you don’t know how to knit in the round, this is a great opportunity for you to pick up those needles and give it a try.  The hat can be knit on a short circular but you will need to pick up those DPN’s or magic loop the crown and the snowman’s head.

I have included instructions for crocheting the eyes and nose but, if you don’t crochet, they can be made with felt or buttons and sewn on.

Sizes: 6-12 mos, 1-2 yrs, 3-4 yrs.

Materials: Worsted yarn, 75 m white and 60 m contrast colour, Sport yarn 5 m. black and 2 m orange.

Needles: 5mm, US 8 16” circular, 5mm, US8 DPN’s, and 4 5mm, US 7 DPN’s for the head, 3mm, US D or 3 crochet hook.

Gauge: 5 stitches and 7 rows = 2.5 cm, 1” on 5mm, US 8 needles.

With contrast colour, cast on 72, (78, 84) stitches and join to knit in round.

In contrast colour, work k1, p1 ribbing for 20, (22, 24) rows.

Change to white and K 16, (18, 20) rows.

Decrease: K 10, (11, 12,) K2tog 6 times.

K 1 row.

Repeat these two rows, knitting one less st between K2tog each decrease row (if you are knitting on a circular you will have to divide st evenly onto 3 DPN’s) until 6 st remain on each needle.

Make head: Switch to 4.5mm DPN’s

K 2 rows.

Increase: (K1, M1) to end, K1 on each needle (11 st on each of 3 needles).

K 2 rows.

Increase: K2, M1, K4, M1, K4, M1, K1 on each needle (14 st on each of 3 needles).

K 4 rows.

Decrease: K 5, K2tog, K 5, K2tog on each needle.

K 1 row.

Repeat these two rows knitting one less st between K2tog on decrease rows until 2 st remain on each needle.  Cut yarn 10 cm or 6” from work and thread through stitches removing needles as you go. Pull tight, thread to inside and fasten off. Weave in ends where joined and at the start.

 Toque: Knit back and forth, not in the round.  Cast on 34 st with contrast colour.

Work 4 rows K1, P1 rib then 6 rows stockinette (knit right side rows and purl wrong side rows) adding stripes or pattern to these rows if you like.

Decrease: K 4, K2tog to last 4 st which are K.

P 1 row.

Repeat these two rows, K 1 less st between K2tog.  Include the last 4 st on third decrease row.

Continue K2tog again until 3 st rem. Cut yarn leaving a longish tail to sew hat closed and thread through remaining 3 st. Sew up Toque and weave in ends. Make a pompom and sew to top of hat.

Scarf: Knit back and forth, not in the round.  Cast on 50 st. K 7 rows and cast off loosely.  Weave in ends and add fringe if you like.

Eyes and Nose: With black yarn and 3mm hook, chain two, 4 sc into 1^st ch, join to 2^nd ch and pop out to make a round eye.  Repeat.  With orange yarn and 3mm hook, ch 6, slip st into 2^nd ch from hook, sc into next three ch and fasten off.  Use the ends to attach eyes and nose to face, tying the two yarn ends securely inside of head and trim them leaving a short end.  If you don’t crochet, you could use felt for eyes and nose.

Finishing: Stuff head lightly.  I used a crochet circle to cover the opening but you could use a circle of fabric.  With white, ch4, 9 dc into 1^st ch and join.  Fasten off leaving a long end to sew circle into head opening.  You could also use a felt circle if you don’t crochet.to cover the head opening:

Sew toque onto head and tack scarf around neck.

 Abbreviations:           K = knit

P = purl

K2tog = knit 2 stitches together

M = increase or make a stitch by lifting the bar between two stitches onto the left hand needle and knitting through the back of the stitch

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

Dc = double crochet

 

 

 

Copyright on all written material and photos held by Barb Padwicki.