May 2017 - Iris Rose Knits and Crochets

Grafting a Sock Toe the Easy Way!

May 29, 2017 Iris Rose

I posted some facebook photos of my finished socks a while ago. I had fun making them and definitely will be making some more as I have a tub of sock yarn that I have been collecting over the last couple of years.

Socks-2

In case you are wondering, I do collect yarn just because it is beautiful but these particular yarns were collected to make shawls, scarfs, and sweaters. I used this yarn double for the white lacy cardigan that I had to repair (and posted about). I used this same grafting technique to rejoin the pieces that I cut.

Front-and-Back-Pieces-Compared

However, I was writing about socks. I struggled with grafting stitches off the needles to complete the toe of the socks so I went to a technique that I learned a number of years ago when I belonged to a machine knitting group. To hold live stitches off the knitting machine, it is common to use waste yarn instead of stitch holders. You knit a few rows in a contrast yarn (so that you can see the live stitch loops) and then take the piece off the machine. You can cast off or not depending on how big a risk taker you are. I always cast off so what does that say about me?

Waste-Yarn-on-Toe

When you finish your sock toe, you will cut the end of the working yarn leaving a long tail to graft with. I use about five to six times the length of the row to graft as I hate running out before I finish. Knit three rows in a contrast colour yarn the same or finer weight than the yarn that you knit your socks with. Cast off these stitches to hold them securely while you graft. Now the live stitches that you want to graft are not being held by a needle, are easy to access, and still at the same tension as the rest of the work. My socks were plain stocking stitch so grafting from the right side, in my opinion, would result in a wrong side (purl) row or will be very awkward to execute.

Ready-to-Graft

Turn your sock inside out and thread the long tail of your sock yarn onto a tapestry needle. I like to use a tapestry needle as it has a blunt tip so you are unlikely to pick up any strands of the waste yarn. Make sure that the waste yarn knitting is tucked inside the sock. You will see a row of bumps that make up the live stitches of your sock toe.

Grafting-1

Hold your two sock edges together and pull the needle through the first stitch on the right hand across from where your knitting ended. Make sure that you go through the stitch from the bottom and not over the top. Pull your needle through the next stitch on the same side from the back so that you are going back toward the edge where your working yarn came from. Pull your needle through the first stitch on that side and around through the next stitch on the same side from the back away from the waste yarn. Going back to the second side, pull your needle through the same stitch that you last used and around through the next stitch. This is all shown in the photos above and below.

Grafting-2

Grafting-3

Grafting-4

Go back across through the same stitch that you last used on the first side and around through the next stitch on the same side. Make sure that you pull your yarn up to match the tension of the sock knitting as you will not be able to tighten or loosen the tension once you have made a few stitches. You can see in the finished toe after the waste yarn is removed that I didn’t follow my own advice and pulled the grafting yarn too tight on the right side of the toe. You should see the stitches that you are making mimic the purl rows of the sock. Keep going across all of the toe stitches then fasten off by overcasting once on the last stitch and weaving in the end.

Grafted-Toe-Complete

Now you just need to remove the waste yarn. Unravel the yarn from the cast off edge and pull it out of the work. You will see a closed toe that looks like it has no seam! Pretty neat and very easy once you get into the rhythm. You can use this technique to close any horizontal join that you want to be invisible. You do need to be careful that you don’t pull the stitches that you are creating too tight. You can see my mistake on the right side of the toe where I got carried away with tugging on the yarn! If I was making these socks for someone else I would have redone the seam before taking out the waste yarn but I am not too concerned as they will be stuffed into my shoes.

Finished-Toe-Front-1

Finished-Toe

Knitting

Another Cake Shawl

May 25, 2017August 12, 2018 Iris Rose

This pattern was knit with one cake of Caron Cakes yarn. The pattern, as written, takes advantage of the long colour changes and (here is a caution) may need to be adjusted by a row or two if the colour changes don’t match the cake that I used. I have found that most of the cakes have similar starting points and the pattern, as is, will be close to what you have. I have added notes to make the differences easier to manage.

The shawl has eight different designs in lace or textured stitches to showcase your knitting skills. None of the patterns are difficult but you will start with a basic stitch and become more challenged by the design at each change.

Size: 163cm x 74cm or 64″ x 29″ blocked

Tools: 6mm or US 10 circular needle, 60cm (24″) or longer to hold all of the stitches when you reach the final rows, two stitch markers (more if you like to marker each pattern repeat), tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Materials: one cake of Caron Cakes yarn or the equivalent number of metres or yards (350m or 384 yds) in any worsted weight yarn.

Gauge: 14 stitches x 24 rows in garter stitch, lightly blocked. Gauge is not critical as this is a shawl but if you want to have a similar finished size you need to swatch.

Abbreviations: K = knit P = purl

YO = yarn over K2tog = knit two stitches together

Note: The first two and last two stitches of the row are always worked the same way. You can place stitch markers at these points if you need to be reminded when you reach the end of the row. The first stitch is always slipped purlwise with the yarn in front. The second stitch is knit with the yarn wrapped over to make the stitch. The second to last stitch is knit and the last stitch is knit with both the slipped stitch and the yarn over together. This will make a pretty braid like edging to the top edge and one long side of your triangle.

Another Note: The side of your work with the yarn over near the beginning of the row is the wrong side. The yarn over feature will form the top edge of your shawl with the pretty braid.

Shawl, Garter Section: Cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: K all stitches

Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, place marker, K to last two stitches, place marker, K2.

Row 3 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, place marker, K to last three stitches, place marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, k to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach the end of your first colour. You should have 64 to 70 rows of garter stitch and need to be on the right side (no YO) to start the next section. The exact number of rows of garter stitch is not important but you can count the ridges and multiply by two if you want to make notes as you go. If you have some of the first colour left (not enough for two rows of garter stitch), start the next section with the old colour and let the transition fall where ever it lands.

Mesh Lace Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (YO, K2tog), repeat * to * to the marker at the last marker, slip marker, K2. You may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.

Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (K2tog, YO), repeat * to * to the last marker, slip marker, K2. Again, you may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.

Repeat Rows 1 to 4 until you reach the end of this colour making sure that you still have enough yarn to work the last wrong side row and you start the next colour on the right side (no YO at the beginning).Â You don’t need to worry about completing all four rows of the lace as long as you end by completing either row 2 or 4.

Work two rows of stocking stitch with the new colour or a combination of the old and new colour if the change comes in the middle of a row.

Zigzag Stitch Section: make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3. On every right side row, if you don’t have enough stitches to complete the ten stitch pattern, knit the remaining stitches and work them into the pattern as the total stitch count increases.

Row 2(wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.

Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 8: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K1, P1, slip marker K2.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 10: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.

Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 14: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.

Row 15: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3 .

Repeat these 15 rows or repeat as many as you can until the next colour change. You will end working on a wrong side row to start the next section. If your colour change is going to be in the middle of the next row, that’s okay as this will be a transition row between the two stitch patterns.

Next Row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Garter Rib Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, P2) across to the last marker, slip marker, K3. If you have extra stitches, work them in knit until you have increased enough to work another pattern repeat.

Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, K2.

Repeat these two rows until you reach the next colour change. You need to end on Row 2 so that your next row is worked on the right side. If your colour change is going to happen part way through the next repeat, stop now and go to the next section.

Modified Leaf Lace Section:

Rows 1 to 4: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual. Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, K3, S2K1P2SSO, K3, YO, K1), repeat * to * across to the last marker, working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 7: repeat Row 5.

Row 8: repeat Row 6.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K1, YO, K2, S2K1P2SSO, K2, YO, K2), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 10: repeat Row 6.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, YO, K1, S2K1P2SSO, K1, YO, K3), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: repeat Row 6.

Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, YO, S2K1P2SSO, YO, K4), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Rows 14 to 17: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual. Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Repeat Rows 5 to 17 one more time. Your next colour change should happen in the four garter rows at the end of the second pattern repeat.

Double Seed or Moss Stitch Section:

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, P2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2.Â (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (P2, K2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2. (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).

Repeat Rows 1 to 4 four more times. Your next colour change should come in the last one or two rows that you work. If you have a small amount to use before the next change, go on to the next section.

Diagonal Lace Section:

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 2 and every even numbered row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K1, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K3, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K5, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Repeat Rows 1 to 12 once more. You should have reached the next colour change. If not, continue with the diagonal lace pattern until you can finish with a wrong side row so the you start the next pattern on the right side. If you reach the colour change before you complete the second repeat, just go on to the next section as long as can start with a right side row.

Feather and Fan or Old Shale Lace:

Row 1 and 2: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual. Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Row 3: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2tog twice, (YO, K1) four times, K2tog twice). Repeat across to last marker, knitting any extra stitches at the end that can’t be worked into the pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Repeat these four rows twice more. You need to leave enough yarn to cast off with so you might only have two repeats and cast off after Row 2 of the third repeat. Cast off loosely. Weave in your ends, block and you are done!

Knitting

Machine Knitting a Wrap

May 23, 2017 Iris Rose

As much as I love to hand knit and crochet, there is always a place in my heart for machine knitting.

It seems as though the common feeling about machine knitting is that it is a form of cheating. Most will imply that the process that produces beautiful knits must be hand done to be a skill that is worth having; it is too easy. Tell that to the beginner that has dropped all of the work off of the machine for the eighth time and can’t figure out why! It also happens to those of us with experience too.

Yes, machine knitting is fast but it also is a process, like hand knitting and crocheting, that can be enjoyed for the art as well as the finished product. If you take your time and hand manipulate your stitches there is a real satisfaction that you have produced a unique and wearable piece. Even using the pattern cards that are set for you, there is still the required knowledge of how a piece is constructed and shaped that you need to master. You need to visualize how the pattern will fit the article that you are making; you need to understand your tools as well as how your machine works.

I always read any forum post that I can that concerns machine knitting. I have used a machine for many years and am always happy to learn a new technique that will advance my skill level. I read on the Knitting Paradise forum section on machine knitting (Knitting Paradise is a great resource and general fun to read webpage) about a wrap that was made by hand manipulating needles in and out of work to produce a “swiss cheese” fabric. The forum post linked to a Youtube video that demonstrated a scarf pattern right down to the hand crocheted edging. Here is the wrap before and after blocking.

I was intrigued and, even though I hadn’t used my machine for a couple of years, I set it up, cleaned it up, and went to work. I made the scarf into a wrap by increasing the number of sets of stitches worked and making it longer. The technique is pretty easy to master as long as you don’t get distracted. I ended up ripping back a few times but overall I am pretty happy with the way my wrap turned out.

Here is a link to the video; it is subtitled in another language and no voice on the audio but is easy to follow. Ideally, have a tablet or laptop by your machine and review the video if you get stuck. I ran back to my computer to check a couple of times so having the video close by would have helped. Once I got past the first pattern repeat it was smooth sailing, until I dropped a couple of stitches, (insert salty language here)!

The finished wrap didn’t look like much when I took it off of the machine but with blocking it turned out to be a beautiful and very wearable work of art.

In my next post, I will be sharing a new free pattern!

Knitting

Blanket blanket

May 17, 2017 Iris Rose

This time I thought that I would share a super quick and easy blanket pattern that you can make with the yarn that I used or any bulky yarn. Try combining two strands of worsted weight to make a super easy, super cozy blanket!

I had four balls of Bernat Blanket yarn (you can use any bulky weight or use worsted weight doubled) that I had bought with cowls in mind but found that the yarn just did not have enough bounce to create the look that I imagined. So what to do with it? Why not a Blanket blanket? Okay, I got my joke out of the way and here is how I went ahead and made a 115cm x 155cm (45” x 60”) cozy blanket.

The blanket is knit with garter stitch in the Shetland style with a centre rectangle and then subsequent rows worked around that. You will need 800 metres (885 yards) of bulky weight yarn. As I said above, you can use Blanket as I did or any worsted weight yarn held double which will double the amount of yarn that you need of course. You will need 10 or 12mm circular needles. Start with one and then two or a very long one as the size of the blanket grows. You will also need four stitch markers.

With a 10 or 12mm circular needle, cast on 18 stitches and knit 60 rows, bind off.

Pick up and knit 18 stitches across the short side of the rectangle, place a marker, 30 stitches along the long side, place a marker, then 18 stitches at the other short side, place a marker and finally another 30 stitches along the last long side, placing a final marker. (To garter stitch in the round, you will knit the first row and purl the next. These two rows will be worked throughout.) Purl the next row.

Increase in each corner on each knit row by making a stitch before the marker, slip the marker, knit one and make another stitch. Make a stitch by lifting the bar between two stitches onto the left needle and knit through the back loop.

I changed colours after 14 rows, then 18, 18 and 12 rows to make the stripes around the centre piece. Bind off with a stretchy bind off; I knit two stitches then slipped them back to the left needle and knit them together. Knit the next stich, slip those two onto the left needle, knit them together and so on. You can alternate colours as often as you like or make it all in one colour. Just have fun with it!

Knitting

Making a Yarn Over at the Beginning of a Row and the Delphinium Scarf Pattern

May 10, 2017 Iris Rose

I made this pretty scarf/shawl to use a skein of skein of Red Heart Super Saver that I bought on a whim. I liked the colour; what can I say, blue is right after green as my favourite hue. I used an antique lace edging and worked the whole thing sideways with short row shaping so that it curves nicely to stay on your shoulders.

Seed or moss stitch is a great way to hide those wraps on the short rows. The scarf is reversible which is another plus.

The pattern is free and includes a photo tutorial on how to make the yarn overs at the beginning of a knit row which is a really nice edging on any project.

From the picture, the pattern looks complicated but it really isn’t. The lace and main body knit together makes for a scarf that is easy to adjust in length and avoids the stress of joining the two pieces later.

When you are done, you are done, except the ends and blocking of course. This knit has a lot going on so please read through the pattern before you cast on.

I hope that you enjoy my pattern and that you will post a photo if you decide to make it.

Delphinium Shoulder Scarf

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, 200 metres or 225 yards, 5.5mm or US 9 needles, one pair single points or one circular, a stitch marker

Gauge: not really important but I knit at 5 stitches to 2.5cm or 1 inch. My scarf is 127cm or 50″ by 28cm or 11″.

Abbreviations:

K = knit

P = purl

St = stitch

K2Tog = knit the next 2 stitches together

P2Tog = purl the next two stitches together

K3Tog = knit the next 3 stitches together

YO = yarn over

M1 = lift the bar between two stitches and place it on left hand needle, knit or purl through the back of the stitch to twist the stitch and prevent a hole.

W&T = wrap and turn, slip the next st onto the right hand needle, move yarn around the slipped stitch to the front, slip the stitch back onto the left hand needle, turn your work.

Seed Stitch:

R1: K1, P1 across. This is the neck edge and will always start with a knit stitch.

R2: P1, K1 across if the stitch count is even, if not then purl the knits and knit the purls as they are facing you. I will note whether to start with a knit or purl in the instructions for each row. All even rows will end with a knit stitch.

Lace Edging: 16 Rows, stitch counts are for the lace edge only and do not include the seed stitch portion.

R1: K2, YO, K2Tog, K4, YO, K3Tog, (K1, YO) twice, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 18 st.

R2: YO, K2Tog, K to marker. All even rows are knit the same so will not be written out again. I have included a photo tutorial at the end of the instructions for YO at the beginning of a row. Even rows end at R16.

R3: K7, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K3, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 19 st.

R5: K2, YO, K2Tog, K2, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K5, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 20 St.

R7: K5, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K7, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 21 st.

R9: K2, YO, K2Tog, K8, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 20 st.

R11: K11, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 19 st.

R13: K2, YO, K2Tog, K6, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 18 st.

R15: K9, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 17 st.

R16: repeat row 2.

Scarf Instructions: I have divided the instructions into five parts, increase, straight, short rows, straight, and decrease. The straight part will be repeated on both sides of the short row section.

Increase Part: In this part you will be making a stitch (M1) on the seed stitch side of the marker at R2, R6, R10, and R14. You will repeat this part four times and end up with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section. Stitch counts at the end on the row are for the first repeat; the second, third, and fourth repeats are in brackets.

Cast on 20 stitches and knit 1 row.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 3 stitches. Place a marker that will stay as a divider between the lace and seed stitch for the whole project. Continue after marker with R1 of the lace edging.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, M1 in purl, K1, P1 to end = 4 st (8, 12, 16) after marker.

R3: Seed stitch over first 4 st, bring yarn to the back, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work even row of lace, slip marker, start with a purl and seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch over first 4 st, bring yarn to the back, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in knit, P1, K1 to end = 5 st (9, 13, 17) after marker.

R7: Seed stitch over first 5 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work even row of lace, slip marker, K1, P1, to end.

R9: Seed stitch over first 5 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in purl, K1, P1 to end = 6 st (10, 14, 18) after marker.

R11: Work seed stitch over first 6 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work even row of lace, slip marker, P1, K1 to end.

R13: Work seed stitch over first 6 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R14: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in knit, P1 K1 to end = 7 st (11, 15, 19) after marker.

R15: Work seed stitch over first 7 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work even row of lace, slip marker, K1, P1 to end.

Repeat the increase part three more times. You will have 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and 4 lace repeats.

Straight Part: In this part, you will continue with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and the lace edging as written. Every row of the seed stitch section will start with a knit stitch. You can relax and not worry about changes for two whole repeats.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R3: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R7: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R9: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R11: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R13: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R15: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

Repeat this part one more time for two repeats of the straight part. At this point you will have a total of six repeats of the lace edging and 19 st in seed stitch. If you are not sure, count the points as each repeat creates one point of edging.

Short Row Part: In this part you will creating the curve at the neck edge of your scarf. You will still maintain 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and work the lace as you have been. All of the short rows are in the seed stitch section so no need to worry about changing the lace rows.

R1: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 7 st, W&T.

R3: Starting with a knit stitch, work 7 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 7 st, pick up wrap and purl 8^th st, seed stitch to end.

R5: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 15 st, W&T.

R7: Starting with a knit stitch, work 15 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 15 st, pick up wrap and purl 16^th st, seed stitch to end.

R9: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 15 st, W&T.

R11: Starting with a knit stitch, work 15 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 15 st, pick up wrap and purl 16^th st, seed stitch to end.

R13: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 7 st, W&T.

R15: Starting with a knit stitch, work 7 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 7 st, pick up wrap and purl 8^th st, seed stitch to end.

You will repeat the short row part five more times for a total of six short row repeats. It takes a little concentration but the end result is worth the little extra thought while you are knitting. At this point you will have a grand total of twelve repeats of the lace edging and you are two thirds of the way to done. It is smooth sailing from here.