This pattern was knit with one cake of Caron Cakes yarn. The pattern, as written, takes advantage of the long colour changes and (here is a caution) may need to be adjusted by a row or two if the colour changes don’t match the cake that I used. I have found that most of the cakes have similar starting points and the pattern, as is, will be close to what you have. I have added notes to make the differences easier to manage.
The shawl has eight different designs in lace or textured stitches to showcase your knitting skills. None of the patterns are difficult but you will start with a basic stitch and become more challenged by the design at each change.
Size: 163cm x 74cm or 64″ x 29″ blocked
Tools: 6mm or US 10 circular needle, 60cm (24″) or longer to hold all of the stitches when you reach the final rows, two stitch markers (more if you like to marker each pattern repeat), tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
Materials: one cake of Caron Cakes yarn or the equivalent number of metres or yards (350m or 384 yds) in any worsted weight yarn.
Gauge: 14 stitches x 24 rows in garter stitch, lightly blocked. Gauge is not critical as this is a shawl but if you want to have a similar finished size you need to swatch.
Abbreviations: K = knit P = purl
YO = yarn over K2tog = knit two stitches together
Note: The first two and last two stitches of the row are always worked the same way. You can place stitch markers at these points if you need to be reminded when you reach the end of the row. The first stitch is always slipped purlwise with the yarn in front. The second stitch is knit with the yarn wrapped over to make the stitch. The second to last stitch is knit and the last stitch is knit with both the slipped stitch and the yarn over together. This will make a pretty braid like edging to the top edge and one long side of your triangle.
Another Note: The side of your work with the yarn over near the beginning of the row is the wrong side. The yarn over feature will form the top edge of your shawl with the pretty braid.
Shawl, Garter Section: Cast on 4 stitches.
Row 1: K all stitches
Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, place marker, K to last two stitches, place marker, K2.
Row 3 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, place marker, K to last three stitches, place marker, K3.
Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K to last marker, slip marker, K2.
Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, k to last marker, slip marker, K3.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach the end of your first colour. You should have 64 to 70 rows of garter stitch and need to be on the right side (no YO) to start the next section. The exact number of rows of garter stitch is not important but you can count the ridges and multiply by two if you want to make notes as you go. If you have some of the first colour left (not enough for two rows of garter stitch), start the next section with the old colour and let the transition fall where ever it lands.
Mesh Lace Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.
Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (YO, K2tog), repeat * to * to the marker at the last marker, slip marker, K2. You may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.
Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.
Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (K2tog, YO), repeat * to * to the last marker, slip marker, K2. Again, you may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.
Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.
Repeat Rows 1 to 4 until you reach the end of this colour making sure that you still have enough yarn to work the last wrong side row and you start the next colour on the right side (no YO at the beginning). You don’t need to worry about completing all four rows of the lace as long as you end by completing either row 2 or 4.
Work two rows of stocking stitch with the new colour or a combination of the old and new colour if the change comes in the middle of a row.
Zigzag Stitch Section: make sure that you are starting on the right side.
Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3. On every right side row, if you don’t have enough stitches to complete the ten stitch pattern, knit the remaining stitches and work them into the pattern as the total stitch count increases.
Row 2(wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.
Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.
Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.
Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 8: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K1, P1, slip marker K2.
Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 10: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.
Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.
Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 14: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.
Row 15: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3 .
Repeat these 15 rows or repeat as many as you can until the next colour change. You will end working on a wrong side row to start the next section. If your colour change is going to be in the middle of the next row, that’s okay as this will be a transition row between the two stitch patterns.
Next Row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.
Garter Rib Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.
Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, P2) across to the last marker, slip marker, K3. If you have extra stitches, work them in knit until you have increased enough to work another pattern repeat.
Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, K2.
Repeat these two rows until you reach the next colour change. You need to end on Row 2 so that your next row is worked on the right side. If your colour change is going to happen part way through the next repeat, stop now and go to the next section.
Modified Leaf Lace Section:
Rows 1 to 4: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual. Knit all stitches in between the markers.
Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, K3, S2K1P2SSO, K3, YO, K1), repeat * to * across to the last marker, working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.
Row 7: repeat Row 5.
Row 8: repeat Row 6.
Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K1, YO, K2, S2K1P2SSO, K2, YO, K2), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 10: repeat Row 6.
Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, YO, K1, S2K1P2SSO, K1, YO, K3), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 12: repeat Row 6.
Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, YO, S2K1P2SSO, YO, K4), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.
Rows 14 to 17: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual. Knit all stitches in between the markers.
Repeat Rows 5 to 17 one more time. Your next colour change should happen in the four garter rows at the end of the second pattern repeat.
Double Seed or Moss Stitch Section:
Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, P2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2. (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).
Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (P2, K2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.
Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2. (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).
Repeat Rows 1 to 4 four more times. Your next colour change should come in the last one or two rows that you work. If you have a small amount to use before the next change, go on to the next section.
Diagonal Lace Section:
Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 2 and every even numbered row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.
Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K1, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K3, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K5, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.
Repeat Rows 1 to 12 once more. You should have reached the next colour change. If not, continue with the diagonal lace pattern until you can finish with a wrong side row so the you start the next pattern on the right side. If you reach the colour change before you complete the second repeat, just go on to the next section as long as can start with a right side row.
Feather and Fan or Old Shale Lace:
Row 1 and 2: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual. Knit all stitches in between the markers.
Row 3: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2tog twice, (YO, K1) four times, K2tog twice). Repeat across to last marker, knitting any extra stitches at the end that can’t be worked into the pattern, slip marker, K3.
Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.
Repeat these four rows twice more. You need to leave enough yarn to cast off with so you might only have two repeats and cast off after Row 2 of the third repeat. Cast off loosely. Weave in your ends, block and you are done!
