It is almost summer, yay! I love this time of the year the best. It is a time of promise, watching new plants grow, dreaming of the fruit and berries to come. Do you think I like food? It is also a time to look forward to swimming at the lake, walking in the park and just generally enjoying the outdoors.
This brings me, of course, to outdoor crafting. When you are working in the heat, it is nice to have something small to knit or crochet. If, like me, you have grandkids to spoil or maybe your own babies to create for, this is a good time to work on the little clothes that are such fun to make and look so cute.
I designed this little jumper (or tunic dress) for our oldest granddaughter a few years ago and didn’t take any pictures at the time so I have recreated it to include multiple sizes and what I hope are clear instructions.
I am including it here now as a gift to you for reading my blog. It will be on Ravelry next week as a paid pattern.
It is kind of mindless knitting but sometimes, especially this time of the year, that’s okay. I hope that you enjoy my latest pattern and that you will share a photo of your finished jumper with me.
Pink Ice Cream Jumper
This pretty little jumper is knit from the bottom up in the round starting with the ruffle. The buttons are sewn onto the straps with the buttonholes in the bodice which allow you to easily move the buttons to make the jumper grow a little bit with your kidlet. The bodice is designed to fit snuggly with a stretchy fabric.
You can make the ruffle in a different colour from the body and add a third colour at the bodice. I have made this pattern in a self striping yarn as well and it was very cute worn over a coordinating Tshirt.
Sizes: 6 months, 1, 1 ½, 2, 3. Chest is designed with negative ease of 1.25cm or ½”.
Gauge: 24 stitches x 31 rows = 10cm or 4″
Materials: 300 to 350m or 330 to 390 yds of baby or sport weight yarn, two buttons.
Tools: 4mm (US6), 60cm (24″) circular needle, stitch holder, stitch marker.
Abbreviations: k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
To begin: Cast on 260 (264, 276, 280, 292) stitches and join being careful not to twist stitches. I used a long tail cast on but a cable cast on is pretty too. If you have trouble joining in the round with this many stitches, work the garter rows back and forth and join after that so that you can see if your work is twisted. You can use your cast on tail to sew the garter piece closed and no one will know the difference. Place a marker at the join to mark the beginning of your rounds.
Ruffle:
Rounds 1 to 4: Garter stitch (in the round, knit 1 row, purl 1 row).
Rounds 5 to 14: Stocking stitch (in the round, knit every row).
Round 15: k2tog around. 130 (132, 138, 140, 146) stitches remain).
Skirt:
Work in stocking stitch until the body piece measures 15.25, (20.25, 25, 30.5, 35.5) cm or 6 (8, 10, 12, 14)†total including the ruffle. This measurement is a guide only. Stop when you think that the skirt is long enough for your child.
Bodice:
All stitches will be worked as k1, p1 rib for the remainder of the jumper.
Round 1: k1, p1, repeat from marker to marker.
Repeat Round 1: 7 (9, 11, 15, 17) more times.
Next Round: Cast off 10 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches st, work 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches in k1, p1 rib, cast off 10 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches, work 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches in k1, p1 rib. Remove marker.
You will be working back and forth from here on.
Place the first 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches (back piece) on a holder as you will now be working back and forth over the last 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) (front piece) stitches. You can leave the first batch of stitches on the needle and just work back and forth on the front stitches if you don’t want to move them to a stitch holder.
Rows 1 to 10: k2tog through the back loop, k1, p1 to last two stitches, k2tog. You are decreasing 1 stitch each end and will have a total of 30 (32, 34, 34, 36) stitches remaining on Row 10.
Rows 11 to 15: k1, p1 to end of the row.
Row 16: Make buttonholes: Maintaining k1, p1 rib, work 4 stitches, k2tog, yo, k1, p1 for 18 (20, 22, 22, 24) stitches, yo, k2tog, k1, p1 over remaining 4 stitches.
Row 17 to 21: k1, p1 to end of row.
Cast off tightly to keep top edge from stretching.
Transfer the second (back) set of 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches from the holder to your working needle.
Rows 1 to 10: k2tog through the back loop, k1, p1 to last two stitches, k2tog. You are decreasing 1 stitch each end and will have a total of 30 (32, 34, 34, 36) stitches remaining on Row 10.
Rows 11 to 21: k1, p1 to end of row.
Row 22: Work the first 8 stitches in k1, p1 rib, cast off next 14 (16, 18, 18, 20) stitches (tightly to minimize stretch), work the last 8 stitches in k1, p1 rib.
Place the first 8 stitches on the stitch holder or leave it on your needle if you are comfortable working on the second 8 stitches with the first hanging.
Straps:
Rows 1 to 49: k1, p1 to end of row. If you want a shorter strap, cast off when you reach the length that looks good to you. I made mine extra long so that the buttons could be moved for grow room.
Cast off. Transfer the remaining 8 stitches from the stitch holder and repeat Rows 1 to 49, cast off. Block lightly, weave in ends and sew buttons to ends of straps to fit snugly to shoulders.
