Month: July 2017

Knitting

Knit and Sewn Dress for a Little Girl

Iris Rose

I love these little dresses.  The skirt is full and fun and the bodice is a cozy knit.  I have seen dresses similar to this on Pinterest but have been unable to find a pattern that works for me.

When you can’t find a pattern, what do you do?  You write one of your own of course!

I love to crochet and sew as well as knit so have combined all of these crafts in this little dress.  I have a really soft cotton and acrylic blend worsted weight yarn in my stash (don’t get me started on ebay and my affair with the same a couple of years ago) and thought that it would make a pretty top for the dress that I had in mind.

The skirt is the bottom of a new lady’s skirt that I found on a clearance rack for a couple of bucks and bought with the idea of repurposing the fabric.  Remember, I am the Queen of Clearance!  I cut it off to the right length, already hemmed and gathered it to fit the bottom edge of the bodice.

I found buttons in my collection that matched and voila, done!

Here is the pattern as I made it.  I have included four sizes for you.

Child’s Dress Bodice

This dress bodice pattern is designed to attach to a sewn skirt to make a pretty and comfortable dress for your sweetie.  The bodice is knit top down with worsted weight yarn and is a really easy knit.  You can customize the top by making it longer or shorter or even turning this basic pattern into a cardigan by omitting the skirt, making it hip length, and finishing the bottom with the pretty edging.

Sizes: 2, (4, 6, 8)

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, I used a cotton and acrylic blend, 150m (165 yards) to 280m (310 yards), 4, (5, 6, 6) buttons. Fabric for the dress skirt, 115cm (45”) wide and the desired length of the skirt plus 6cm (2.25”) for the hem and gathers.

Tools: 5.5mm (US 9), 80cm (32”) circular needle, 5mm (US 8 or H) crochet hook for optional edging, 6 stitch markers, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 16 stitches x 24 rows = 10cm or 4”

Cast on 66, (72, 80, 88) stitches.

Rows 1 to 3: Knit 3 rows, next row is right side and you will divide for the fronts, back and sleeves placing markers as you go.

Note 1: The first four stitches on every row are knit to make the bands.  Buttonholes are worked starting on the fourth row and on every twelfth row after that.  You will make three on size 2, four on size 4, and 5 on size 6 and 8.  The extra button is sewn on through both layers after the fronts are joined to balance the functioning buttons.

Note 2: All yarn overs are purled or knit through the back loop on the wrong side rows.  This will give you a smaller buttonhole and a smaller increase hole at the sleeve/body joins.  If you wish to you can, of course, work them as usual but your holes will be significantly larger.  You will need larger buttons.

Row 4: Right side of work.  K4, place marker, K8, (9, 11, 12), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K10, (11, 12, 13), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K19, (21, 23, 27), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K10, (11, 12, 13), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K7, (8, 9, 11, ), place marker, K2tog, YO, K2 (buttonhole made).

Row 5 and all wrong side rows: K4, slip marker, P across slipping markers as you go to last marker, slip marker, K4.

Rows 6 to 14: K4, slip marker, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, slip marker, K4.

Row 16: K4, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K1 to next marker, slip marker, K2tog, YO, K2 (buttonhole made).

Continue working increases as in Row 6, make a buttonhole on every twelfth row on the right front band.

Size 2: Stop when you are finished Row 25 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 19 front left stitches, 33 left sleeve stitches, 42 back stitches, 33 right sleeve stitches, 19 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

Size 4: Stop when you are finished Row 31 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 23 front left stitches, 40 left sleeve stitches, 50 back stitches, 40 right sleeve stitches, 23 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

Size 6: Stop when you are finished Row 35 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 25 front left stitches, 44 left sleeve stitches, 56 back stitches, 44 right sleeve stitches, 25 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

Size 8: Stop when you are finished Row 39 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 30 front left stitches, 50 left sleeve stitches, 64 back stitches, 50 right sleeve stitches, 30 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

You will need to have a separate end of your yarn to finish the sleeves, one at a time, so that you don’t need to cut your main working yarn.  You can use the other end of your working ball or start a new one.  You can cut if you choose but it will mean more ends to weave in!

Transition Row: Sleeves will be finished and front and back of body joined. K4, slip marker, K across the left front to next marker, drop your working yarn and, with a new end of yarn, K 4 rows back and forth (garter stitch) on left sleeve stitches only, removing markers after the first row.  Cast off sleeves stitches on right side.  Pick up your working yarn, turn your work around and cast on three stitches at the end of the last stitch.  Turn the work back and K across the back to the next marker, drop your working yarn and, with a new end of yarn, K 4 rows back and forth (garter stitch) on right sleeve stitches only, removing markers after the first row.  Cast off sleeves stitches on right side.  Pick up your working yarn, turn your work around and cast on three stitches at the end of the last stitch.  Turn the work back and K across the right front to the next marker, slip marker K4.

Work back and forth on the body only from here.

Row 1: K4, slip marker, P to next marker, slip marker, K4.

Row 2: K4, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, K4.

Size 2: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice more and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 8 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Size 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 12 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Size 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six more times and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 16 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Size 8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight more and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 20 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Overlap the front bands and stitch together at the bottom.  Sew sleeve edges together and stitch to cast on stitches under the arm on the body.  Weave in ends.  Sew on buttons on the left front band to match buttonholes on the right.  Sew the extra button near the bottom of the overlapped bands at the same spacing as the buttonholes.

The bottom may be left plain, edged with purchased lace or finished with a crocheted edging like the sample.

Crocheted edging: The trim is based on a seven stitch repeat.

Rnd 1: Starting at either side, join yarn, ch 1 and work 84, (91, 98, 105) sc over the cast off stitches at the bottom edge.  Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 2: Ch3, skip 3 sc, slip st into 4th sc, skip next 2 sc, (dc, ch1) 4 times, dc in same sc, repeat to around. After last slip st, (dc, ch1) four times at starting ch3 and join with slip st to second ch of ch3.

Rnd 3: (Slip st into first ch1 space of next shell, ch2, slip st in same space, slip st in next ch1 space, ch2, slip st in same space three more times).  Repeat around, join with slip stitch into first slip st and fasten off.

Weave in your ends and block your dress bodice.

Unblocked, ready to finish

Skirt: Cut two pieces of fabric each 58cm (22.5”) wide and the length that you want the skirt to be (anywhere from 20cm (8”) to 50cm (20”) to fit your little one) plus 6cm (2.25”) for the hem and gathered seam allowance.

Finish cut edges with an overcast stitch or serge to stop fraying.

Sew side seams.

Run a gathering thread around the top edge and gather to fit the bottom edge of the bodice.

Stitch the bodice bottom edge to the skirt by lapping the top over the gathered edge and stitching with a matching thread by machine or hand.

Turn up a 4cm (1.5”) hem and stitch with a hem stitch.

Knitting

Northern Rose Shawl Part Three

Iris Rose

I have test knit my new shawl pattern a couple of times and am confident that there are few if no errors.  If you do find one, please, please, please let me know!  You can message me in the comments or on Ravelry.  I always like to correct any errors as soon as they are found and really appreciate everyone’s input into making my patterns easier to use.  Thanks!

I have knit this shawl in both a worsted weight and a four ply.  I used a 5.5mm needle for the worsted and a 4.5mm for the four ply (sock) weight.  Both turned out really pretty and, while the worsted is very winter snuggly, the light one is lovely and drapey.  The same pattern made two very different fabrics so the choice is yours on the look and feel that you want.

Now, without further rambling, here is part three of the Northern Rose Shawl.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!

Edge Lace Pattern:

Row 1: K1, slip marker, YO, K to last stitch, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and all wrong side rows: K all stitches slipping the markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat to last marker, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K1, YO, K4, S2K1PSSO, K4, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, K1, (K2, YO, K3, S2K1PSSO, K3, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, K2, (K3, YO, K2, S2K1PSSO, K2, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, (K1, YO, K3, YO, K1, S2K1PSSO, K1, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.  Pattern repeat stitch count is now 14.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2 (K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker K1.

Row 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO (K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1. Pattern repeat stitch count is now 16.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1 (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen times more, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, (K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, (K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.  Pattern repeat stitch count is now 18.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1 (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2 (K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3 (K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat seventeen more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K all stitches, remove the markers as you come to them.

Bind off knitwise on the wrong side using a stretchy bind off.  I used the following: K2, slip stitches back onto the left needle and K2tog to start then (K1, slide the two stitches on the right needle onto the left needle and K2tog) repeat across.  If you have another favourite that you like to use that’s fine just make sure that it is stretchy so that you can block out your lace.

Block and weave in ends.

Knitting

Okay, Part Two is Ready

Iris Rose

I have test knit part two of my Northern Rose Shawl and it is ready!  The pattern has changed slightly from the one in the photo as I have extended the lace patterning to the edges of the shawl at both the outside and centre areas.  I think that the finished look is nicer and more complete looking rather than having a straight knit part before the lace begins.  I hope that you enjoy this part of the shawl as much as I enjoyed creating it.  Part three will be up shortly.

Happy knitting!  Please keep in mind that webpage formatting is funny (not haha, either) and, in this case, will not allow me to use an asterix to mark the repeats.  Use the brackets as a guide.  Any stitches inside the brackets and in italics are to be repeated the given number of times.  Note also that the number of repeats grows as the width of the shawl grows.

Diamond Lace Section: you will maintain the centre lace panel while you are knitting the diamond lace on each side.

Row 1: K1, slip marker YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and every wrong side row: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2), repeat two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K9, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1, (K2, SSK, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1), repeat two more times, K2, SSK, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K1,(K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1), repeat two more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, ( K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK) repeat  two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat two more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, (S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO,) repeat two more times, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2togYO, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K8, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K2, YO, SSK, K8, YO, slip marker, K1.

Rows 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K10, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K10, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K5, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K1, slip marker, YO, K5, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K2, YO, SSK, K7, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K7, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 35: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 36: K all stitches slipping markers as you come to them.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!

Knitting

The Second Part is Coming Soon!

Iris Rose

I wanted to have part two of my Northern Rose Shawl pattern up for you today but I am about a day away from finishing the test of this section. I have revised my original knit to expand the lace pattern out to the edges where the stitch increases happen. I like the result and I hope that you will too. I should have it up this weekend for you. Stay tuned to facebook or subscribe to my blog to have instant access to new posts.


In the meantime, I have been getting another pattern ready for you and will be posting it to Ravelry as a paid pattern. You can get it here first (and free) so stay tuned for that too!

Summer is in full swing and although it is hot, hot, hot, we still need to knit and crochet to keep our hands busy and our minds engaged and soothed. I like to work on small projects this time of year. I am currently knitting a pair of socks for DH that are made with sock yarn dyed in the colours of the Seattle Seahawks, his favourite NFL team. I have one finished but have put the second on hold while I finish the shawl pattern.


I have the urge to start some hats and have the pattern in mind that I want to create. I will use bulky yarn to make a quick and, hopefully, really cute head cover for the winter that we all know is coming.


And, just to show you that I really have startitis, I am working on a top down kid’s sweater. I am really pushing it here but if there is no pressure I don’t seem to get anything done!
Watch for my post this weekend to get the next episode of the shawl and stay cool!

Knitting

Northern Rose Shawl Part One

Iris Rose

 

I have been working on this shawl pattern for a while now.  It is a hybrid of Shetland and Faroese styling with only garter lace and plain garter stitch parts (no purls here!). 

It has been one of those projects where if anything is going to go wrong it will.  If you look closely at the photo you will see what I mean.  Even the yarn was spun with more mohair in some parts than in others which was fine in the natural but not so fine in the rose.  Alternating skeins seemed to make no difference.

I had some random skeins of a mohair, silk and wool blend that the ebay monster made me buy and did not have anything already developed that I thought the yarn wanted to be.  I had three colours, 100g of natural, 100g of deep rose, and 200g of dark green.  I ended up with just 50g of the green which I have no idea what I will do with but, you know, never throw away good yarn.  That explains the thirty year old skeins in my stash!

Anyway, back to the shawl, I have written the pattern and am offering it free in parts with written directions only over the next three blog posts.  I will publish it on Ravelry but as a paid pattern with charts as well as written directions.  This first part will give you a sampler of what the whole pattern will be like.  This section could be continued to make the whole shawl if you want a simpler wrap up and it would be a very cozy piece.

 

Materials: Worsted weight yarn: 125m (140 yds) of cream, 170m (185 yds) of rose, 250m (280yds) of green.

Tools: 5.5mm (US 9) 60cm (24”) circular knitting needle, 4 or more stitch markers, tapestry needle to weave in ends.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows in garter stitch, blocked.  Gauge is not crucial but you should try to achieve a close number to ensure that your shawl is the same size.

Cast on 23 stitches using a cable cast on.  All stitches in this pattern are knit; no purls here!  On every wrong side row throughout the shawl, knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Initial Row: K1, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat to to last two stitches, K2tog.

First Wrong Side Row: Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Garter Stitch Section and Centre Lace Panel:

Row 1: K1, place marker YO, K2, YO, place marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, place marker, YO, K2, YO, place marker, K1.

Row 3: K1,slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 16: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Repeat Rows 1 to 16 three more times.  Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You should have 64 garter stitches between the first and second markers and the same on the other side of the lace panel.