I went stash diving last week and came up with two pretty yarns that look really good together. I found a single skein of Sirdar’s Crofter Chunky (clearance basket!) and one of those unknown fibre mill end bags that looks just like Bernat Softee Chunky (sale at Michael’s, I am the Queen!). As a result, today I have a new hat pattern for you. I know, I know, winter is a long way off but now is a good time to start your gift knitting and this hat is part of a set. Plus, the matching cowl will be coming at you in the next couple of weeks and small projects are great for summer knitting.
The hat is knit in chunky yarn and is a great way to introduce yourself to cables. It is a fairly easy knit but you will have to pay attention to your row count. There is no chart for the cables but the pattern is written out with clear explanations and I am always available for questions here or on Ravelry. I really need to get a better model don’t I!
Dig through your stash and find that perfect yarn for that special knitworthy someone or maybe use this free only here on my blog pattern for charity knitting. Either way, just have fun with it.
At the end of this post I am featuring a photo of the start of a new crochet pattern that I am working on. I thought it was time to switch up my craft choice for this project and get my crojo working again!
Cable Hat
This is an easy to knit hat, standard size, that lets you branch out a little from plain stocking stitch. It is knit in the round so no seams! To finish, all you need to do is close the top and weave in a couple of ends. If you need to adjust the size, use a larger needle up to 6.5mm or US 10.5.
Materials: Chunky yarn, 40m or 44 yds for the ribbing and 90m or 99yds for the crown. I used Sirdar Crofter Chunky for the band and Bernat Softee Chunky for the crown because that is what I had in my stash.
Tools: 5.5mm or US 9 circular needle (40cm, 16”, or smaller), 5.5mm or US 9, DPN’s, stitch markers.
Abbreviations:
K = knit P = purl
K2tog = right slanting decrease, knit two stiches together
SSK = left slanting decrease, slip two stitches knitwise and place them back on the left needle. Knit them together. An easier left slanting decrease is to simply knit two together through the back loop.
S2K1PSSO = centred double decrease, slip two stitches, knit the next then pass the two slipped stitches over the knit one.
C2F = twist two knit stitches: knit into the back of the second stitch on the left needle, leaving it on the needle, knit in the front of the first stitch on the left needle and move them both to the right needle together.
C3F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next stitch on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.
C4F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next two stitches on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.
Band: With the yarn that you are going to use for the band, cast on 78 stitches and join to knit in the round. Place a marker at the join to mark the beginning of the round and slip it at the end on each round.
Rnds 1 and 2: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.
Rnd 3: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.
Rnds 4 to 6: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.
Rnd 7: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.
Rnds 8 to 11: Repeat Rnds 4 to 7.
Rnds 12 and 13: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2.
Change yarn here if you are using two colours or continue with the same yarn for a single colour.
Crown: The crown is divided into six sections of thirteen stitches. If you are unsure of the pattern, use a stitch marker between each section. Make sure that you use a different colour or have some other way to note where you rounds end or your cables will be messed up.
Rnds 1 and 2: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.
Rnd 3: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.
Rnds 4 to 7: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.
Rnd 8: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.
Repeat Rnds 4 to 8 three more times.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 one time.
The next round will start the decrease for the crown. You will be decreasing on every third round so make sure that you keep track of the cable rows separately from the decrease rounds. You will need to switch to DPN’s, or two cable needles or magic loop when the stitch count drops.
Rnd 26: (K4, P1, SSK, K3, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 27: (K4, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 28: (C4F, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 29: (K4, P1, SSK, K1, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnds 30 and 31: (K4, P1, K3, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 32: (K4, P1, S2K1PSSO, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 33: (C4F, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 34: (K4, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.
Rnd 35: (K4, S2K1PSSO) repeat six times around.
Rnds 36 and 37: K all stitches.
Rnd 39: (C3F, K2tog) repeat six times around.
Rnd 40: K all stitches.
Rnd 41: (K2, K2tog) repeat six times around.
Cut a long tail and take off the remaining eighteen stitches around with a tapestry needle. Pull tight and thread the tail to the inside. Secure it by weaving through the stitches in the last round and trim.
Weave in any other ends and trim. Block your hat lightly if you choose but do not block the ribbing band.
And here is a sneak peek at my latest effort with the hook. I have been visualizing this piece for some time and thought I better get off my duff and work it out!