Month: January 2018

Knitting

Machine Knitting and a Crochet Teaser.

Iris Rose

Wow, the week sure has flown by!  I have been busy with my knitting machine this week. 

These were made with self striping sock yarn with a little sacrificed cause I love matchy, matchy.

I have a bunch, okay a ton, no actually about a few hundred skeins of yarn from an ebay binge that I went on a couple of years ago.  You may have recognized the labels from my hat post two weeks ago.  I have to seriously purge my stash before it takes over the house and, as most of the yarn that I bought is sport or finer, the machine just called out to me!

The hat is lined for warmth!

I have had some problems in the past with static that these yarns hold.  I am not sure why but they are way more electric than any other yarn I have used.  It doesn’t seem to matter about the type of fibre.  I normally rewind the skeins into a cake for machine knitting to suss out any knots or imperfections before they hit the tension mast or the carriage and cause a major patterning fail.  Plus, it hurts like crazy when the weights hit your feet as the knitting drops off the needles!  I held a damp wash cloth in my hand and let the yarn run through it while tensioning and, voila, no static!  Why didn’t I think of this years ago??

I am working on a pattern for a toddler’s cardigan, machine knit, with a hand crocheted edge.  The sample turned out really cute, so I am experimenting with sizing now.  I always like to offer a pattern in multiple sizes and, although I know how to do the math from gauge for hand knits and crochet, machine knitting is a little different.  As the samples are quick to knit and can be added to my sales inventory, I am making one in each size to ensure that the pattern is correct.  It will be written out and on sale next week.

Samples ready for blocking and finishing.

I am also working on a hand knit version in worsted weight as I liked the machine knit one so much.  That pattern is going to take just a little bit longer.

I am also working on a crochet pattern for you.  I have a vision of a shawl that I have been cooking in my brain for the last ten months.  I made a sample over the summer but didn’t like it enough to finish it.  I have been mulling over the best stitch pattern to achieve the look that I want and have arrived at a winner I think.  I will let you know how it goes!  Here is a teaser.

Don’t forget about my half price offer on the Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns, coupon code 50OFF in my Ravelry store!

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

My New Gradient Cable Poncho Pattern, Half Price!

Iris Rose

Well, at long last I finished my gradient yarn poncho and, tada, I love it! You know that feeling that you get when you envision a project or fall in love with a pattern and yarn and just have to make it? And when it turns out exactly like your vision or the pattern, you just want to jump up and down and hug someone? That’s it; that is what I am actually feeling, woohoo!

Okay, okay, time to calm down already. I have published the pattern for my Gradient Cable Poncho, made in worsted weight yarn, on Ravelry and, for the next two months, I am offering it to my blog readers at fifty percent off. Use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout and enjoy! Half price for all my loyal readers and, if you pass it along, to your friends too. You do need to click through to Ravelry from my blog for this promotion. While you are on my blog site, have a look at all of the other free patterns that I have up there in cyberspace for you to use.

               

As a special bonus, because spring is coming and who doesn’t need another light and lovely shawl to keep those shoulders warm in the cool spring breeze, you can use the same coupon to purchase my Northern Rose Shawl pattern at half price. The pattern for this pretty shawl is written and charted and can be made in two sizes depending on the yarn that you choose. Have a look at the pattern details to see both a worsted weight and a sock weight version. Who doesn’t love to save money?

       

I have been busy with charity hats still and am about one third of the way through that box of yarn that I featured last week. Who knew that making hats is so addictive and great TV knitting? I am determined to switch up to crochet this weekend which will slow down the movie intake (I need to look at what I am doing when I crochet!) but, hopefully will sharpen up my skill set.

I have a couple of machine knit patterns in the works too, worked on a standard gauge machine, for anyone interested in that craft. I just have to decipher my notes, always a challenge! Keep watch here as they will be featured on my blog first.

Knitting

A Winter Hat Formula For Stash Busting, Charity or Just Because You Love Hats

Iris Rose

I know that I have written about hat patterns before this and have published a cabled one in my blog only, along with the couple that I have in my Ravelry store.  I find that knitting or crocheting a hat is a very soothing and rewarding process.  The project is completed in a short period of time so that the repetition does not become tiresome and the resulting hat is both functional and shows off lovely yarns.  Hats are a good way to try out new techniques and stitches without a huge investment of time and money.

Hat making is for crafters as a romance novel is for a serious reader; a way to keep your mind active without any stress because you know that the major characters are always going to live happily ever after and your hat will always fit and look great on somebody.

I cleaned out my stash in November when I was looking for a yarn for a specific project (and I was appalled at the mess my stash was in) and found a box of odd acrylic, wool and wool blend skeins, all washable, that I had forgotten about.  I have made a commitment this year to more charity crafting and here was the perfect yarn for that goal.

                   

These are knit with Acrylic yarn, Loops and Threads Facet, Lion Brand Landscape and Red Heart Unforgettable respectively.

 

Since I like to knit hats the best for the reasons above, I started with hat projects.  I have knitted six in the last week!  I plan to keep on going but do need to switch up the type of project.  I am thinking mitts next or maybe scarfs are more practical.  I also need to switch to crochet as I have a horde of hat patterns in that craft that are crying to be used.

                    

All of these hats are made with my formula except the last which is a pattern prototype (maybe next week?).

 

We will see what the next week brings but in the meantime, I thought that I would share my hat formula with you.  It is adaptable to any worsted or heavier yarn and customizable if you want to try different stitches.  I can make one of these hats in about three to three and half hours depending on how distracted I am.

Basic Adult Winter Toque:

Yarn:     Worsted weight     130m (143yds)     5.5mm or 6mm (US 9 or 10), 40cm circular needle

             Aran or Chunky     110m (121yds)     6.5mm (US 10.5), 40cm (16”) circular needle

             Bulky                      95m (105yds)       8mm (US11), 40cm (16”) circular needle

You will need DPN’s in the same size to shape the crown or a same size longer circular needle for Magic Loop.  You will also need a stitch marker and a tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.

Cast on 84, (78, 72) stitches and join to work in the round.  Place a marker at the join.  Work 18, (16, 14) rounds of ribbing.  My favourite is K2, P1 as this makes a nice stretchy ribbing like a 1 x 1 but is still a little different looking.  It also lets you twist the knit stitches for a faux cable look like the white and purple hat above.  Continue knitting in rounds until 30, (28, 26) rounds of stocking stitch have been worked.  Start decreases for the crown.  Divide your working stitches by six so 84 stitches will result in decreasing by K12, K2together six times.  You will decrease 78 stitches by K11, K2together six times and with 72 stitches you will work K10, K2together six times.  Next round, knit all stitches.  Continue decreasing every second round by working one stitch less between the K2togethers each consecutive decrease round.  Switch to DPN’s or Magic Loop when the stitches are too taut on the needle.  End at K1, K2together (12 stitches remaining) and, cutting a 15cm or 6” end, thread the end through the remaining stitches and gather them up off of the needles(s).  I like to thread the tail through to the wrong side and fasten it off securely inside.  Weave your beginning end and any ends from colour changes etc., and you are done.

Add a pompom for an up to date look or tassels to make it vintage looking.  Make it in stripes, a good way to use up part skeins, or with a self-striping yarn.  You can modify this pattern with a fancy stitch, but you will have to figure out how to work that into the decreases.  You can also adapt the pattern for finer yarn by increasing the number of cast on stitches, decreasing the needle size to suit, and keep your stitch count always divisible by six to keep the crown decrease in a nice shape.

I use this same formula for kid’s hats, decreasing the number of cast on stitches by six for 5 to 9 year olds and 12 stitches for younger.  Even smaller for babies is possible with another six less stitches.

Have fun and keep those charities in mind if you want to practice.

Knitting

Back to Reality and a Gift For You.

Iris Rose

Is everyone back to normal after the midwinter Christmas and New Year’s break?  It takes some doing doesn’t it, to get back into the routine of everyday living.

I was away for much of December on a (for me) trip of a life time.  I spent three weeks travelling New Zealand and Southeast Australia, a bucket list destination.  We had a wonderful time and had to be dragged, kicking and screaming, to the airport to come home!

It is now time for reality again and back to cold winter and awesome crocheted and knit accessories and sweaters.  As promised, I have been working my tail off to finish (or rather refinish) the poncho that I started in the fall.  I am happy to say that it came off the needles yesterday and I completed the sewing up last night ready to block.  I am really, really happy with the resulting garment and will be posting the pattern in the next week.  In the meantime, here is a glimpse of the detail on the front and back and a picture of the yarn that I used, purchased at Stash Lounge in Calgary.

                            

I need to get to work next on that crocheted wrap that I promised you as well.  I had almost completed a sample in October but was unhappy with the look; it just wasn’t what I envisioned.  Too bad that you can’t take a picture from your brain and make it real.  Anyway, I have rethought the process and I think that I now have an idea of how I want to put it together.  Hopefully it will be a reality before the end of the month!

Crocheting was my first love and, even though knitting seems to have taken over, I enjoy the more three-dimensional process of hook and yarn.  I am using an ordinary acrylic (Loops and Threads) from Michaels to create something that, if my vision doesn’t get ahead of my craft again, will be extraordinary.  I am excited about this project!

This crocheted little kid’s cardigan is a paid pattern in my Ravelry store but, as it has been such a long time since I published my last new free pattern, here is gift for you:

Worked top down, this little cardigan is light and lacey.  It looks great on its own or with a long sleeved T underneath.  Pair it with leggings or jeans to make your little princess look dressed up while you know that she is comfortable.

Sizes: 12 months, 18/24 months, 2/3 years

Materials:

Red Heart Soft or equivalent worsted weight yarn: 175 m/195 yds white, 225 m/250 yds contrasting colour, 5mm crochet hook, four small buttons to match, large eyed needle for sewing in ends.

Abbreviations:    sc = single crochet               dc = double crochet

tc = treble crochet

 

Gauge: (Blocked) 4 sc or 4 dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch, 2rows dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch

Custer Stitch: wrap yarn around hook once to begin a double crochet, work into stitch below and draw up a loop, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops only.  Wrap yarn again and draw a loop through the same stitch, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops. Repeat this again and then wrap yarn and pull through all four loops on hook.

Begin cardigan at neck edge:

With white, ch 49, (61, 73)

Row 1: sc in each ch starting at 2nd ch from hook. 48, (60, 72) sc

Row 2: sc 7, (9, 11), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 16, (18, 20), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 7, (9, 11), ch 1 and turn. 56, (68, 80) sc

Row 3: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn. Repeat this row for 2nd and 3rd size.

Row 4: sc 8, (10, 13), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 18, (20, 22), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), ch 2 and turn. 64, (76, 88) sc

Row 5: dc 9, (11, 13), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 20, (22, 24), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 9, (11, 13), ch 2 and turn. 72, (84, 96) dc

Row 6: dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 20, (24, 26), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), ch 2 and turn. 80, (92, 104) dc

Row 7: dc 11, (13, 15), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 24, (26, 28), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 11, (13, 15), ch 2 and turn. 88, (100, 112) dc

Row 8: Change to contrast colour, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * working cluster and ch 1 in extra dc at sleeve increases to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. 42, (50, 58) clusters

Row 9: Change to white, ch3, slip st in 1st chain 1 space, (ch3, slip st) in each ch1 space to end, ch3 and slip st to last dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 10: dc 2 in each ch 3 space to end, dc in slip st, fasten off.  Bodice is complete.

Row 11: Change to contrast colour, ch 2, dc in each dc across front to sleeve corner = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across back to sleeve corner = 28, (30, 32) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across front = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 12: dc in each dc across front, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across back, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across front, ch 2 and turn.

Row 13: dc 18, (20, 22), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 32, (34, 36), 3 dc in ext dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 18, (20, 22), ch 2 and turn.

Row 14: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 15: dc 19, (21, 23) 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 34, (36, 38), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 19, (21, 23) ch2 and turn.

Row 16: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 17: dc 20, (22, 24), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 36, (38, 40), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 20, (22, 24), ch2 and turn.

Row 18: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 19: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 20: Change to white, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 21: ch 3, sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3 repeat * to * to last st, sc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 22: dc in 1st dc, * cluster st in next ch3 space, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 23: Change to contrast colour, ch 2 and dc in 1st st, 3 dc in each ch 1 space across to last 2 dc, dc in each st, ch 3 and turn.

Row 24: tc in next dc, 2 tc in next dc repeat from * to * to end, ch3 and turn.

Row 25: tc in each tc across, ch 1 and turn.

Row 26: sc in 1st st, skip next 2 tc, (dc, ch 1 four times, dc into next tc), skip next 2 tc, sc in next tc, repeat * to * to end, sc in last st. Do not fasten off.

Right front edge:

Row 1: sc 44 evenly along right front edge, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 5 sc *, repeat * to * 3 times more, (this makes your buttonholes) sc in each remaining sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc working 1 sc in each ch 2 space. Fasten off.

Left front edge:

Row 1: join contrast colour at neck edge of right side and work 44 sc evenly along edge, ch1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc, fasten off.

Neck edge:

Row 1: join white at edge of front band, ch 1 and sc in first st, sc in each sc to sleeve start, skip 1 sc and sc across sleeve to corner, skip 1 sc and continue across, skipping 1 sc at each edge of second sleeve, ch 1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, skipping 1 sc at sleeve corners, fasten off.

Sleeve edge:

Row 1: join white at right side edge of white, sc across, ch1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, fasten off.

Repeat these two rows on second sleeve edge.

Weave in ends and block lightly.

Sew buttons to left front edge to match buttonholes on right.