I know that I have been missing for the last couple of weeks, my apologies. Sometimes life just takes over and leaves little time for the fun stuff.
I have a free pattern on Ravelry that has been very popular and deserves another feature here for you. It is a very easy shoulder scarf that is perfect to keep the chill off when you are wearing your pretty sundress or tank top.
I have knit this up in worsted weight, both light and heavy, in a couple of colours and like each one. I rated this one as easy to make and it is actually a pretty quick knit as well. I think that it would look lovely in a soft and fuzzy yarn as well.
Change up the lace for a different look. There are a ton of antique lace patterns out there that could easily be substituted for the one I used.
This curved shoulder scarf is shaped with short rows and decreases and edged with old fashioned garter lace which is knit first. I used a diamond edging but any 12 row garter lace edging up to about 15 stitches wide could be substituted. Please note there are now two different garter edges at the top of the scarf; one is straight and the alternate curved to cover the ends of the lace.
Needles: 6.5mm (US 10.5), 80cm (32”) circular needle, two stitch markers.
Yarn: any worsted weight yarn. I have used DK to the heavy worsted pictured above.
Abbreviations:
K = knit P = purl
K2Tog = knit 2 stitches together
K3Tog = knit 3 stitches together
YO = yarn over
W&T = wrap and turn, turn work, slip the last unworked stitch onto the left hand needle, bring the yarn to front, slip the stitch back to the right needle and bring the yarn to the back, reverse front to back on purl rows.
Diamond Garter Lace Edging:
Cast on 9 stitches
R1: K3, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K1, YO, K1
R2: (K1, P1) x 3, K4
R3: K2, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K3, YO, K1
R4: K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P1, K3
R5: K1, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K5, YO, K1
R6: K1, P1, K5, P1, K1, P1, K2
R7: K3, (YO, K2Tog) x 2, K1, K2Tog, YO, K2Tog
R8: K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P1, K3
R9: K4, YO, K2Tog, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog
R10: (K1, P1) x 3, K4
R11: K5, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog
R12: (K1, P1) x2, K5
Work 21 repeats of the edging, cast off with row 12 of final repeat and leave the last stitch on the needle.
Body of scarf:
Pick up and knit 125 stitches along top edge of diamond lace (126 stitches total including the one on your needle to start). If you pick up one stitch between each knot at edging row ends, you will have a smooth join. If you pick up in the knots, you will have a seam.
R1: Wrong side of work, purl all stitches.
R2: K1, (YO, K2Tog) to last stitch, K1.
R3: Purl all stitches, placing a marker after 42 and 84 stitches, dividing the work into 3 equal sections. This is where you will decrease to shape the shoulders.
R4: Knit to 1st marker, slip marker and work a left leaning decrease by slipping the two stitches after the marker knitwise, slipping them back to the left needle and knitting them together. Knit to 2 stitches before the next marker, knit these 2 stitches together for a right leaning decrease and slip marker. You will work every right side row this way until 22 stitches remain between the markers. Knit to 37 stitches after the last marker, wrap and turn (W&T).
R5: Purl across working 37 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R6: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 32 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R7: Purl across working 32 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R8: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 27 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R9: Purl across working 27 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R10: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 22 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R11: Purl across working 22 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R12: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 17 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R13: Purl across working 17 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R14: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 12 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R15: Purl across working 12 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R16: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 7 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R17: Purl across working 7 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R18: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 2 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R19: Purl across working 2 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R20: Knit to end picking up the wraps at W&T and decreasing at the markers.
R21: Purl across to end picking up the wraps at W&T. If you are going to knit the Alternate Edge, cut your yarn here, leaving all of your stitches on the needle and go to the Alternate Edge Instructions at the end of the pattern.
R22: Knit across, decreasing between the markers and removing the markers as you go. 106 stitches remain on your needle.
R23: Knit (wrong side).
R24: (K8, K2Tog) x 10, K6. (96 stitches remain)
R25-27: Knit.
Cast off loosely, weave in ends and block. I always give my knitting a good tug in all directions before blocking to even out the stitches, a throw back to when I learned to machine knit.
Alternate Edge: See note below
R22: With the right side of your scarf facing you, start at the bottom edge of the lace and pick up and knit 12 stitches along the side (9 on the lace and 3 on the body of the scarf). Continue knitting the stitches that are on your needle, decreasing between the markers and removing the markers as you work. Pick up and knit 12 stitches across the end of the scarf (3 on the body and 9 on the lace). (130 stitches)
R23: Knit all stitches.
R24: K19, K2 Tog, (K8, K2Tog) x 9, K19 (120 stitches).
R25-27: Knit.
Cast off loosely, weave in ends and block.
Note: If you are using a yarn without much stretch, you should increase 1 stitch on R24 between stitches 11 and 12 and in the same place at the other end to allow your edge to curve when blocked without pulling.
