Category: Knitting

Do you walk the aisles and pick up and put down many skeins of yarn before the right one jumps into your shopping basket?  I do.

When I shop for yarn, both on line and in the store, I have a hard time sticking to what I had in mind to shop for.  Each skein I pass becomes a new project, some great and beautiful something that begs to run through my fingers with needles or hook.  Often it is just too soft or textured or fuzzy or silky or colourful to ignore and, even though the project isn’t planned, it jumps into my basket and is adopted.

The practical part of my brain, the part I try to ignore, tells me no, no, no put that down and just pick up the number of skeins that you need for project X.  Remember project X, the one you just had to make, the one that you promised yourself that you were going to start as soon as you bought just the right yarn?  The creative side of my brain says, just a couple please, please, please.  I just know that if they come home with me they will speak to me and tell me what they want to be.

I rarely make these random buys because that gorgeous skein is wool or silk or acrylic or cotton but just because it is too beautiful to languish on a shelf all alone.  Am I crazy or foolish?  Probably both, but I know I am not alone.

I have random skeins of yarn that came home with me a long time ago.  I have random skeins that I inherited from other family members, picked up at garage sales, and even saved from deconstructed sweaters.  Every once in a while, I break down and go through my stash to try to eliminate some of the single (but so lovely) skeins and I end up finding forgotten beauty and actually never get rid of a thing.

I have, however, assigned some of my yarn to patterns and made a resolution not to buy until I have used a significant amount of my existing yarn.  I wonder how long that resolution will last?  Probably about as long as that diet and exercise program did!

I am the Queen of Clearance. I am always drawn to the racks or bins that say reduced, clearance, super sale, or something like that. I think that this is a habit from my early years when, if I wanted something new, I needed to search out the sales to find something I could afford. It is this habit that brought about my topic for today.

I was in a discount store shopping for designer jeans when I stopped to look at the clearance sweater rack. I do love sweaters. I found this pretty cotton cable knit that really appealed to me as a great top for a cooler spring day or summer evening. I checked the tag and it was $3.00! My heart rate sped up a little. It was my size! It was meant to be mine and into the buggy it went.

I always try clothes on before buying and, much to my disappointment, my beautiful bargain sweater was a perfect fit except (and this is the bad part) the sleeves were so long and narrow as to be laughable. I had a look at the inside of the sweater as I still was in love with the colour and texture of the knit and found that it was not a cut and sew so I could take it apart. The things we do for love!

Long story short, the sweater went to the cashier and home with me. I tried to block the sleeves wider and shorter by washing the sweater and stretching them out before laying it out to dry. No dice, the sleeves were just as long and skinny as ever when it was dry so I went to Plan B.

I carefully unpicked the seam where the sleeves fit into the armhole and found the end of the cast off sleeve top. Into my trusty yarn winder the end went and after a few minutes I had a cake of yarn instead of a sleeve. Sleeve number two dissolved into a cake just as quickly.

I am lucky to have a standard gauge knitting machine as I didn’t want to spend hours knitting on small gauge needles for an experiment that may or may not work. I cast on sleeve one and went with a plain stockinette as I knew that there was no way that I could replicate the original stitch pattern. I opted for elbow length sleeves so that the difference in design would not be too noticeable and left the cast on edge to roll as, again, I couldn’t match the ribbing.

I sewed up the sleeve seam and set the first sleeve into the armhole. It worked and, with a little blocking, will look great! I am so delighted that I could rescue a really pretty sweater with a serious design flaw and add to my wardrobe at the same time. The $3.00 price tag was nothing to sneeze at either for the Queen of Clearance.

Hats. Hats, hats, hats and more hats.  Did I say hats?  I really like to make hats even though I never wear them unless I am outside when it is double minus something.  I have designed a few that I have written up as free patterns available on Ravelry and have made many more by just winging it.  Hats are actually a great spring and summer project as they are small and easily carried along with you.

Whether you are an expert at knitting or crocheting or just a newbie, making a hat is a great quick and easy (or complex depending on your need to challenge yourself) project to keep you inspired in your craft.  It is also a great way to try out new techniques without committing to a large piece or just making a sample.

Hats can be made flat and seamed or crocheted or knit in the round.  I used to be afraid of the working in the round thing and worked everything flat and seamed it.  I even made socks that way!  I dipped my toe in the working in the round water a few years ago (okay, a lot of years ago, shh) and haven’t looked back.   Again, making a hat is a good way to start as it is not so big that you can’t see if you have twisted stitches at the join and still have an end finished project that you can use and be proud to wear.

There are many great hat patterns out there.  Ravelry is always my go to source for both crochet and knit, free and paid patterns.  Whether you like cables, lace, colour work or just plain work, you will find something you like I am sure.  I like to use the rule of six when winging it.  Depending on my needle or hook size, I start with an even number divisible by six as I can rib in many ways and decrease by sections of six for an even crown.  Lots of cable and lace patterns are easily adapted to the six rule as well.

Keep in mind too, that even if you or anyone you know doesn’t wear hats, they are always welcome at shelters and other charities for the homeless or disadvantaged.  Challenge yourself to learn new techniques and do a good deed at the same time.  You will feel great for a new accomplishment whether learning a new skill or a refreshing an existing one.  You will use up some of that languishing stash and have a chance to help someone else at the same time.

Hat making is a winner all around!

Looking for an easy way to change up the look of your décor?  In the living room, family room, den, or bedroom, a big squishy pillow is always a good addition.  Make these pillows up in colours to match or something very distinctly opposite of the colour scheme that you have going now.  Think curl up on the couch with a movie and popcorn!

Worked in big yarn on big needles in the round, these pillows are a quick knit that adds a little pizzazz to your décor.  They are designed to fit a bed pillow which makes them easy to adapt to any room.  I used Bernat Blanket but any super chunky yarn will work.  Pillow One has stripes on one end only and Pillow Two is striped right across.

 

Size: 51cm x 66cm or 20” x 26”

Materials: Bernat Baby Blanket, 2 x 300g (12oz) balls in main colour (MC); Bernat Blanket, 1 x 300g (12oz) ball in contrast colour (CC); 8mm (US 11), 80cm (32”) circular needle; one 8mm (US 11) straight needle or one 7mm (US K) crochet hook for three needle bind off; one stitch marker; two standard bed pillows.

Gauge: 16 stitches x 17 rows = 10cm x 10cm or 4” x 4”

Pattern Note: You must slip the first stitch of the second round after joining a new colour in order to prevent a jog in your stripes.

 Pillow One:

With MC, loosely cast on 80 stitches, place marker and join for circular knitting being careful not to twist stitches.

Rnds 1 to 44: knit all stitches, slipping marker at the end of each round. Cut end, leaving enough to tie off to new yarn inside your work.

Rnds 45 to 54: join CC and knit 10 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 55 to 64: join MC and knit 10 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 65 to 72: join CC and knit 8 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 73 to 80: join MC and knit 8 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 81 to 86: join CC and knit 6 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 87 to 92: join MC and knit 6 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 93 to 96: join CC and knit 4 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 97 to 100: join MC and knit 4 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 101 to 103: join CC and knit 3 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 104 to 106: join MC and knit 3 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 107 to 108: join CC and knit 2 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 109 to 110: join MC and knit 2 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Three Needle Bind Off: Flip your work inside out so that you are working the purl side of the stitches. Divide your stitches so that you have 40 at each end of the needle and work a three needle bind off to close the end of your pillow cover.  I like to use a crochet hook in a smaller size than the needles instead of a third needle; you are less likely to drop stitches with a hook.

Stuff your pillow into the cover evenly and close the end with mattress stitch or your favourite joining stitch.

Pillow Two:

With MC, loosely cast on 80 stitches, place marker and join for circular knitting being careful not to twist stitches.

Rnds 1 to 22: knit all stitches, slipping marker at the end of each round. Cut end, leaving enough to tie off to new yarn inside your work.

Rnds 23 to 44: join CC and knit 22 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes. Do not cut yarn as you will be using CC in two rounds.

Rnds 45 to 46: join MC and knit 2 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes. Do not cut your yarn as you will be picking it up in one round.

Rnd 47: pick up CC and knit 1 round, slipping marker at the end of the round. Cut your yarn now to join it later.

Rnds 48 to 63: join MC and knit 16 rounds, slipping the first stitch on the first round this time to prevent a jog in your stripes.  Slip marker at the end of each round. Do not cut your yarn as you will be picking it up in one round.

Rnd 64: join CC and knit 1 round, slipping marker at the end of the round.  Do not cut your yarn as you will be using CC in two rounds.

Rnds 65 to 66: join MC and knit 16 rounds, slipping the first stitch on the first round this time to prevent a jog in your stripes.  Slip marker at the end of each round. Cut your yarn here to join it later.

Rnds 67 to 88: pick up CC and knit 22 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Rnds 89 to 112: join MC and knit 22 rounds, slipping marker at the end of each round and making sure that you slip the first stitch of the second round to prevent a jog in your stripes.

Three Needle Bind Off: Flip your work inside out so that you are working the purl side of the stitches. Divide your stitches so that you have 40 at each end of the needle and work a three needle bind off to close the end of your pillow cover.  I like to use a crochet hook  a size smaller than the needles instead of a third needle; you are less likely to drop stitches with a hook.

Stuff your pillow into the cover evenly and close the end with mattress stitch or your favourite joining stitch.