Tag: cable pattern

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

Coupon Code and Pattern Roundup

Iris Rose

It is raining and cold outside. I am feeling whiny and a little bit like I need a batch of cookies. I haven’t thought about posting all week so I am still stuck on what to offer you today.

I know, how about a 50% off coupon code for all of the paid patterns that I have on Ravelry? Does that make you (and me) feel better or do we still need to break out the butter and get to work on those cookies? Tell you what, you knit or crochet and I’ll take care of the cookies for you. I might even make you a nice cup of coffee or tea to go with them!

Here is run down of the patterns with links to my Ravelry store. The coupon code is 50OFF that you will need to enter on the checkout page. Have fun!

  

A Wrap For Spring                     Delphinium Shoulder Scarf 

    

Gradient Cable Poncho               Knit and Sewn Kid’s Dress

  
Little Lovely Lacey Cardigan               Lovely Lacey Cardigan

  
Northern Rose Shawl          Pink Ice Cream Jumper

  

Simple Stripes Wrap                        Sweet Doll Bed

   

Toddlers Pretty Crocheted Cardigan     Twisted Stitches Scarf and Hat

Vine Lace Wrap

Roses and Lace Cardigan

Have a wonderful week with sunny days ahead (or at least cookies) and don’t forget 50OFF!

Crochet, Knitting

New Pattern and Crocheted Edge for Last Week’s Freebie

Iris Rose

During the madness of my life (good madness not bad) this week, I have managed two things, well actually almost three. I have that crocheted edging pattern ready for you down below in the post that goes with the knitted cardigan pattern that I published last week. I have finished, but not written up, the cardigan knitted edging, can you say girly ruffles, and am very happy with it. The test knit is a size four and I am working on a two now before the pattern is complete.

      

Most importantly of all, I have, tada, finished the crocheted wrap that I have been teasing you with.  A Wrap for Spring is a paid pattern and is available for you to download on Ravelry in my store. If you act now (do I sound like an infomercial yet?) you can use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout to buy the pattern for half price until March 7th. That is a cool $2.50, such a deal!

I am still offering half off on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns as well. These are $2.50 with the same coupon code at checkout.


Now that I have given you my sales pitch, here is the promised edging for those of you who crochet as well as knit.

Crocheted Edge for Size 5/6 Cardigan:
This edging is crocheted all in one piece around all of the edges of the knit cardigan. Ideally you will only have the beginning and ending ends to weave in, my kind of project! As you will be switching from in the round to back and forth while you work, I have not broken the instructions down into rounds and rows. I will name the edges that are being crocheted on instead.

Tools: 5mm, US H/8 crochet hook, tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Materials: 100m or 110 yds worsted weight yarn in the same colour as knitted cardigan or a contrasting colour.
Abbreviations:         sc = single crochet           dc = double crochet
ch = chain                         sl st + slip stitch

With right side facing you, at the bottom left corner, join your yarn.

Bottom: Work 28 sc along the edge of the left front, 56 sc across the back, 28 sc across the right front. Work 1 sc in the same place as the last sc on the right front to make the corner.

Right Front: You will now make the buttonhole band. Work 36 sc evenly up the right front to the neck edge, ch 1 and turn. If you sc into the knots at the row ends rather than the bars, you should have 1 sc in each knot. This will also result in a firmer edge.

Working back down the right front into the sc edge that you just completed, 1sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, sc into each of the remaining 24 sc to the end, ch1 and turn. Here you have made three buttonholes.

Working back up to the neck edge, work 1sc into each sc and 1sc into each ch2 space of the prior row. Do not turn.
The front band is finished except for the scalloped edging which is done later.

Neck Edge: ch1 into the same place as your last sc of the front band, work 2sc evenly across the top of the band, work 14sc evenly across the right front neck, 18 sc across the back neck and 14sc across the left front neck, sc in corner to begin the left front band.

Left Front: Work 36sc evenly down the left front edge (right side facing), ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below, ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below. Do not turn. You will be at the bottom edge where you started and the left front band is complete except for the scallops which come later.

Bottom: 1sc in same place as last sc to make the corner. Work 2sc evenly across the bottom of the band, then 1sc in each sc across the bottom to the right front, ch3 and turn.
The ch3 that you ended the last row with will represent a dc and ch1. Skip the first sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc seven times, (dc, ch1) in the next sc. This will make an increase to ease the finished edging around the curve of the bottom. Skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve, make the increase by working in the next sc and continue on with skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve. Complete the row increasing at each outside curve (a total of four times), dc in last sc, ch1 and turn.  Working back across the bottom, sc in each dc and ch1 space. Do not turn.

You will now work the finished scalloped edge all around from the right front, across the neck, down the left front and across the bottom.

Right Front Scallops: skip the first sc on the right front, (5sc in next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next sc). Repeat the instructions in the brackets eight more times. Work 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc and sl st into the last sc.

Neck Edge: Work 1sc into each sc of the neck edge. Work 2sc evenly into the side of the left band at the end, sl st into the corner sc.

Left Front Scallops: Skip the first sc, 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc to the bottom. The last sl st should be in the bottom corner.

Bottom Scallops: Skip the first 2 sc in the row below, [(dc, ch1) four times, dc in the next sc, skip the next 2 sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next 2 sc], repeat the instructions in the square brackets across to the end. Work the last repeat without the last skip 2 sc, just sl st into the last stitch on the bottom. Fasten off.

Sleeve Edge: Join yarn at the underarm seam and work 35 sc evenly into the sleeve edge.
Following the instructions for the Bottom Scallops, make six scallops around the sleeve edge. Fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Weave in your ends and block. Sew buttons on the left band to match the buttonholes on the right band.

Knitting

A Free Sample Of My New Pattern

Iris Rose

New pattern in the works, two in fact! I have been busy, busy trying to get the new patterns ready for you and, guess what? I didn’t make it. I do so want to get these patterns done but life just keeps interfering. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

Anyway, you will have to wait for the crocheted one as the sample is just not complete and it is pretty hard to post a pattern with no photos. Who wants to gamble on a pattern looking great if you can’t see how it looks? I actually have a pet peeve about patterns being released with just a corner or shadowy artsy shot of the finished project. Why would I spend my time and money making something that is a mystery in the hope that it turns out like something I would wear?

But, I digress, a frequent failing of mine, and I was discussing my own patterns, not someone else’s. So, the crochet one will have to wait but I do have a sneak peek for you at the knit one. It is a super easy kid’s cardigan. I haven’t finished the edging, but it will be the same as the machine knit version that I featured earlier this month. I am working on a knit edging for those who don’t crochet as an alternative.

          Three needle bind off on the shoulders

I am still not ready to officially publish the pattern but here is one size (5/6) of the basic cardigan for you to try as a gift from me to you. I will post the edging pattern as another gift next week. The pattern will be available in multiple sizes as a paid pattern, including both knit and crochet edgings once all of the test knits are done.

Don’t forget about the 50OFF coupon code to save 50% on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns in my Ravelry store. At $4.99 regular price these are a bargain!
Enjoy the freebie!

Worsted Kid’s Cardigan, Short Sleeved, Size 5/6

Material: 325m (360 yds) worsted weight yarn, I used Loops and Threads, Impeccable.

Tools: 5.5mm needles, straight or circular, two stitch holders, another needle or crochet hook for 3needle bind off at shoulders if you choose to do that, tapestry needle for sewing and end weaving.

Instructions:
Back: Cast on 30 stitches. I used the cable cast on. Knit side will be the right side of the cardigan.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P1, M1, P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last stitch, M1, K1.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 20 stitches, 2 per row over ten rows. You should have 50 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 58. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 70 stitches on your needle.
Row 2: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches. 82 stitches on your needle.
Work another 28 rows of stocking stitch (30 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a purl row so you are ready to shape the back neck on the right side with a knit row.

Shape Back Neck:
Row 1: K33, cast off 16 stitches, K33. You will finish the left side then go back and repeat on the right.
Row 2: P31, P2T, turn your work.
Row 3: K2T, K30. Place these stitches on a stitch holder for 3needle bind off and cut your yarn leaving a 15cm or 12” length. If you wish to sew the shoulder seams instead, bind off all 31 stitches.
To complete the other shoulder, start at the neck edge from the purl side with Row 2.
Row 2: P2T, P31, turn your work.
Row 3: K30, K2T, place stitches on a holder as Row 3 above or bind off for sewn seams and put this piece aside.

Front: You will make two pieces, mirroring the instructions for the right side.
Left Front: Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to end.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 10 stitches, 1 per row over ten rows. You should have 25 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 29. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 41 stitches on your needle.
Work another 14 rows of stocking stitch (15 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a knit row so you are ready to shape the front neck purl row.

Shape Left Front Neck:
Row 1: (Purl or wrong side of work), bind of 6 stitches at the beginning of the row. P34.
Row 2: (Knit or right side of work), K all stitches.
Row 3: P2T, P33.
Row 4: K all stitches.
Row 5: P2T, P32.
Row 6: K all stitches.
Row 7: P2T, P 31.
Row 8: K all stitches.
Row 9: P2T, P30. Your stitch count is 31 stitches to match your back shoulder.

Work stocking stitch straight until you have worked a total of 32 rows from the sleeve increase. Join the front to the back left side with a 3needle bind off here. To do this pick up the stitches from the back off of the holder onto a needle and bind them off together with a third needle or crochet hook. There are YouTube videos that can show you how if you need that instruction.
If you are sewing your shoulder seams, bind off the shoulder and put this piece aside with the back.

Right Front: Complete as the left side. Make sure that you reverse the increases and decreases to make a mirror of the left side.

Sew up the side seams and your cardigan is done except for the crochet edging that includes the buttonholes.

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

My New Gradient Cable Poncho Pattern, Half Price!

Iris Rose

Well, at long last I finished my gradient yarn poncho and, tada, I love it! You know that feeling that you get when you envision a project or fall in love with a pattern and yarn and just have to make it? And when it turns out exactly like your vision or the pattern, you just want to jump up and down and hug someone? That’s it; that is what I am actually feeling, woohoo!

Okay, okay, time to calm down already. I have published the pattern for my Gradient Cable Poncho, made in worsted weight yarn, on Ravelry and, for the next two months, I am offering it to my blog readers at fifty percent off. Use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout and enjoy! Half price for all my loyal readers and, if you pass it along, to your friends too. You do need to click through to Ravelry from my blog for this promotion. While you are on my blog site, have a look at all of the other free patterns that I have up there in cyberspace for you to use.

               

As a special bonus, because spring is coming and who doesn’t need another light and lovely shawl to keep those shoulders warm in the cool spring breeze, you can use the same coupon to purchase my Northern Rose Shawl pattern at half price. The pattern for this pretty shawl is written and charted and can be made in two sizes depending on the yarn that you choose. Have a look at the pattern details to see both a worsted weight and a sock weight version. Who doesn’t love to save money?

       

I have been busy with charity hats still and am about one third of the way through that box of yarn that I featured last week. Who knew that making hats is so addictive and great TV knitting? I am determined to switch up to crochet this weekend which will slow down the movie intake (I need to look at what I am doing when I crochet!) but, hopefully will sharpen up my skill set.

I have a couple of machine knit patterns in the works too, worked on a standard gauge machine, for anyone interested in that craft. I just have to decipher my notes, always a challenge! Keep watch here as they will be featured on my blog first.

Knitting

Foray into Machine Knitting

Iris Rose

This week, I thought that I would write about my third craft love, machine knitting.  I know that I have written about this in the past and I know that machine knitting is regarded by many as cheating or not requiring much skill, but nothing could be further from the truth.

I have caught up with my WIPs (actually ignoring the pile is more accurate) and decided to give the old standard gauge a whirl.  I have a couple of knitting machines, okay four, all of them Singers from the eighties, three are standard gauge and one is a bulky machine.  Three have matching ribbers.  My first machine was a gift and the others were just too tempting a price to refuse once I caught the bug.

Silk Noil Tank Top With Hand Crocheted Edging

I am self taught and learned before the era of Youtube and other helpful online resources.  I thought that using a machine would be breeze and, although I was already an accomplished crocheter and knitter at the time, I soon found out that this craft was a whole new ball game.  The instruction books that come with the machines are good but there is no substitute for hands on help with this type of knitting.  I joined a machine knitting group and that really helped to keep me going.  I have learned so much more these last few years through facebook groups and Youtube that I am light years ahead of where I was when I packed up my machines thirteen years ago.

A standard gauge knitting machine will handle yarn from very fine to about sport weight.  3ply and 4ply (sock) are the perfect weight in my opinion.  You can knit DK but it is a struggle and requires using only every other needle so is limiting in what you can make.  My favourite machine is my Singer 560 (I have two in case one dies on me) and has built in electronic patterning which was state of the art in 1984, the year it was made.

This last couple of weeks of been a fun test of all of the knowledge that I have acquired but not used recently.  I had rehabbed my machines a few months ago with new retainer bars and needles and, wow, what a difference!  I cast on without dropping everything on my toes and I was off.

    

Cashmere, Silk and Merino Wrap, the photo doesn’t do it justice!

The first thing that I made was a wrap for myself.  I collect yarn, did you know that?  I have a few, okay some, okay a lot, of luxury yarn on cones that I buy online from Colourmart in the UK.  I had a 150g cone of cashmere, silk, merino blend in a charcoal grey.  Perfect, I thought.  I played with some swatches (yes, you have to swatch for machine knitting too!) and settled on a simple tuck stitch pattern that gives the work some interest but allows the sheen of the yarn to come through.  Thirteen hundred rows later I had a gorgeous wrap that only required some crochet around the edge to stop the curl.  Three thousand single crochet stitches later and my wrap was done.  It is really lovely, soft and drapey, and is my new favourite wrap.

Bunny Hop Cardigan

Well, the simple work was done, and I ventured on to something more challenging.  I didn’t keep the patterns that I had written long ago but remembered enough to work out a simple girl’s cardigan.  Having a lot of sewing experience in garment construction really can make a difference in success or failure when designing for another craft.  A border of bunnies across the bottom above the ribbing made the sweater.  I still needed to block everything and sew it together but, when that was done, it is really cute and I am proud of the way it turned out.

Cable Sweater Back, Unblocked

Next up is a more complicated pullover with hand manipulated cables and raglan sleeves.  I had no trouble with the back but, of course, thinking that this would be a breeze, I needed to reknit the front a few times.  All in the learning curve I guess but whew, I was glad when it was done.  I have completed a sleeve and am working on the second.  I should be done this weekend, yay!

    

Wrap Knit from a Youtube Video, this took some patience but was fun!

If you think that machine knitting might be for you, I highly, highly recommend that you join a group in your area if you can find one.  I did that when I first started and it really does make a big difference in continuing or quitting in frustration.  Youtube is your friend and an active facebook group will keep you inspired and encourage you to keep going.