Tag: cable pattern

Knitting

Whew, A Neckwarmer When It Is Too Hot To Think About Knitting!

Iris Rose

I don’t know what it is like where you live but here in Alberta where we are normally starting to think about fall, it is hot, hot, hot!  We have had a record heat wave this summer with little or no rain and none in sight.  I am not complaining, only commenting on the unseasonal weather.  Sorry, that’s what Canadians do isn’t it, comment on the weather in every conversation?

Even though it is hot, I always find time to knit or crochet and I have made a neck warmer or cowl to match the cable hat of two weeks ago.  I like the look of a matching set but mostly I wanted to use up the last bit of the self striping yarn that I had.  I still have a bit left so maybe some mittens will be forthcoming or maybe not.  Maybe I will liberate myself and throw that last bit of perfectly good yarn away and move on to something new!

I am still finishing the UFO pile with only, I think, four or five left.  My problem is that I keep starting new things so that resolution to finish it all never gets fulfilled.  I am sticking to working only from my stash though so one resolution is still working for me.  I am going on a yarn shop day in a couple of weeks so that will be the ultimate test of my will power.  I hear that Vegas is taking bets at 10 to 1.

Anyhow, I will keep plugging along and here, without further rambling is my neck warmer aka cowl pattern.  It is close to the neck to keep you warm and buttons to keep your hair tidy.

Cable Neck Warmer

 

This neck warmer is designed to match my Cable Hat and use up the remainder of the skein of self striping chunky yarn that I used for the hat band.  It can easily be made larger by increasing the number of cable sections and/or knitting more rows.  It can also be knit in the round if you prefer.  I made mine to button as I hate to pull anything over my head except a hat when I am on the way out the door.  I also like my cowls or neck warmers to be close to my neck but easily removed when indoors, think overheated shopping malls.  I also used a larger needle than I used on the matching hat to give a little more drape to the fabric.

Materials: Chunky yarn, 40m or 44 yds for the ribbing and 80m or 88 yds for the body.  I used Sirdar Crofter Chunky self striping for the band and Bernat Softee Chunky for the crown because that is what I had in my stash.

Tools: 6.5mm or US 10.5 needles, stitch markers to separate cable sections if you need to.

Abbreviations:          

K = knit

P = purl

C4F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next two stitches on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

K2tog = knit two stitches together

YO = yarn over

 

Ribbed Edge: Using the self striping yarn, cast on 80 stitches, don’t join if you are using a circular needle.

Row 1: (K2, P1) to last two stitches, K2.

Row 2: (P2, K1) to last two stitches, P2.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in

 

Cable Section: You will start on the wrong side of your piece.  Join contrast yarn.

Row 1: P1, (K1, P4, K1, P6), repeat six times, K1, P4, K1, P1.

Row 2: K1, (P1, C4F, P1, K6), repeat six times, P1, C4F, P1, K1.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4: K1, (P1, K4, P1, K6), repeat six times, P1, K4, P1, K1.

Rows 5 to 20: Repeat Rows 1 to 4 four more times.

Row 21: Repeat Row 1.

Cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

 

Ribbed Edge: You will start on the right side of your piece.  Join in self striping yarn.

Row 1: (K2, P1) to last two stitches, K2.

Row 2: (P2, K1) to last two stitches, P2.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Cast off loosely knitwise on the wrong side.

Ribbed Ends:

Button hole side:

With self striping yarn, pick up and knit 20 stitches along one end with the right side facing you.

Row 1: wrong side, (P2, K1) six times, P2.

Row 2: K2, P1, (YO, K2tog, P1, K2, P1) twice, YO, K2tog, P1, K2.  Three buttonholes made.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4: (K2, P1), six times, K2.

Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Cast off purlwise.

Plain Side:

With self striping yarn, pick up and knit 20 stitches along one end with the right side facing you.

Row 1: wrong side, (P2, K1) six times, P2.

Row 2: (K2, P1), six times, K2.

Repeat Rows 1 and two once more and then Row 1 again.  Cast off purlwise.

Block your neck warmer and weave in the ends.  Sew buttons on the plain side to line up with the buttonholes on the other side.  I sewed a couple of buttons on the hat band to match the neck warmer making a set.

 

Knitting

New Hat With Cables!

Iris Rose

             

I went stash diving last week and came up with two pretty yarns that look really good together.  I found a single skein of Sirdar’s Crofter Chunky (clearance basket!) and one of those unknown fibre mill end bags that looks just like Bernat Softee Chunky (sale at Michael’s, I am the Queen!).   As a result, today I have a new hat pattern for you.  I know, I know, winter is a long way off but now is a good time to start your gift knitting and this hat is part of a set.  Plus, the matching cowl will be coming at you in the next couple of weeks and small projects are great for summer knitting.

The hat is knit in chunky yarn and is a great way to introduce yourself to cables.  It is a fairly easy knit but you will have to pay attention to your row count.  There is no chart for the cables but the pattern is written out with clear explanations and I am always available for questions here or on Ravelry.  I really need to get a better model don’t I!

Dig through your stash and find that perfect yarn for that special knitworthy someone or maybe use this free only here on my blog pattern for charity knitting.  Either way, just have fun with it.

At the end of this post I am featuring a photo of the start of a new crochet pattern that I am working on.  I thought it was time to switch up my craft choice for this project and get my crojo working again!

 

Cable Hat

This is an easy to knit hat, standard size, that lets you branch out a little from plain stocking stitch.  It is knit in the round so no seams!  To finish, all you need to do is close the top and weave in a couple of ends.  If you need to adjust the size, use a larger needle up to 6.5mm or US 10.5.

 

Materials: Chunky yarn, 40m or 44 yds for the ribbing and 90m or 99yds for the crown.  I used Sirdar Crofter Chunky for the band and Bernat Softee Chunky for the crown because that is what I had in my stash.

Tools: 5.5mm or US 9 circular needle (40cm, 16”, or smaller), 5.5mm or US 9, DPN’s, stitch markers.

Abbreviations:          

K = knit                       P = purl

K2tog = right slanting decrease, knit two stiches together

SSK = left slanting decrease, slip two stitches knitwise and place them back on the left needle. Knit them together.  An easier left slanting decrease is to simply knit two together through the back loop.

S2K1PSSO = centred double decrease, slip two stitches, knit the next then pass the two slipped stitches over the knit one.

C2F = twist two knit stitches: knit into the back of the second stitch on the left needle, leaving it on the needle, knit in the front of the first stitch on the left needle and move them both to the right needle together.

C3F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next stitch on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

C4F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next two stitches on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

 

Band: With the yarn that you are going to use for the band, cast on 78 stitches and join to knit in the round.  Place a marker at the join to mark the beginning of the round and slip it at the end on each round.

Rnds 1 and 2: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnd 3: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnds 4 to 6: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnd 7: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnds 8 to 11: Repeat Rnds 4 to 7.

Rnds 12 and 13: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2.

Change yarn here if you are using two colours or continue with the same yarn for a single colour.

Crown: The crown is divided into six sections of thirteen stitches.  If you are unsure of the pattern, use a stitch marker between each section.  Make sure that you use a different colour or have some other way to note where you rounds end or your cables will be messed up.

Rnds 1 and 2: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnd 3: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnds 4 to 7: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnd 8: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Repeat Rnds 4 to 8 three more times.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 one time.

The next round will start the decrease for the crown.  You will be decreasing on every third round so make sure that you keep track of the cable rows separately from the decrease rounds.  You will need to switch to DPN’s, or two cable needles or magic loop when the stitch count drops.

Rnd 26: (K4, P1, SSK, K3, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 27: (K4, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 28: (C4F, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 29: (K4, P1, SSK, K1, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnds 30 and 31: (K4, P1, K3, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 32: (K4, P1, S2K1PSSO, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 33: (C4F, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 34: (K4, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 35: (K4, S2K1PSSO) repeat six times around.

Rnds 36 and 37: K all stitches.

Rnd 39: (C3F, K2tog) repeat six times around.

Rnd 40: K all stitches.

Rnd 41: (K2, K2tog) repeat six times around.

Cut a long tail and take off the remaining eighteen stitches around with a tapestry needle.  Pull tight and thread the tail to the inside.  Secure it by weaving through the stitches in the last round and trim.

Weave in any other ends and trim.  Block your hat lightly if you choose but do not block the ribbing band.

And here is a sneak peek at my latest effort with the hook.  I have been visualizing this piece for some time and thought I better get off my duff and work it out!