Knitting

A Free Sample Of My New Pattern

New pattern in the works, two in fact! I have been busy, busy trying to get the new patterns ready for you and, guess what? I didn’t make it. I do so want to get these patterns done but life just keeps interfering. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

Anyway, you will have to wait for the crocheted one as the sample is just not complete and it is pretty hard to post a pattern with no photos. Who wants to gamble on a pattern looking great if you can’t see how it looks? I actually have a pet peeve about patterns being released with just a corner or shadowy artsy shot of the finished project. Why would I spend my time and money making something that is a mystery in the hope that it turns out like something I would wear?

But, I digress, a frequent failing of mine, and I was discussing my own patterns, not someone else’s. So, the crochet one will have to wait but I do have a sneak peek for you at the knit one. It is a super easy kid’s cardigan. I haven’t finished the edging, but it will be the same as the machine knit version that I featured earlier this month. I am working on a knit edging for those who don’t crochet as an alternative.

          Three needle bind off on the shoulders

I am still not ready to officially publish the pattern but here is one size (5/6) of the basic cardigan for you to try as a gift from me to you. I will post the edging pattern as another gift next week. The pattern will be available in multiple sizes as a paid pattern, including both knit and crochet edgings once all of the test knits are done.

Don’t forget about the 50OFF coupon code to save 50% on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns in my Ravelry store. At $4.99 regular price these are a bargain!
Enjoy the freebie!

Worsted Kid’s Cardigan, Short Sleeved, Size 5/6

Material: 325m (360 yds) worsted weight yarn, I used Loops and Threads, Impeccable.

Tools: 5.5mm needles, straight or circular, two stitch holders, another needle or crochet hook for 3needle bind off at shoulders if you choose to do that, tapestry needle for sewing and end weaving.

Instructions:
Back: Cast on 30 stitches. I used the cable cast on. Knit side will be the right side of the cardigan.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P1, M1, P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last stitch, M1, K1.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 20 stitches, 2 per row over ten rows. You should have 50 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 58. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 70 stitches on your needle.
Row 2: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches. 82 stitches on your needle.
Work another 28 rows of stocking stitch (30 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a purl row so you are ready to shape the back neck on the right side with a knit row.

Shape Back Neck:
Row 1: K33, cast off 16 stitches, K33. You will finish the left side then go back and repeat on the right.
Row 2: P31, P2T, turn your work.
Row 3: K2T, K30. Place these stitches on a stitch holder for 3needle bind off and cut your yarn leaving a 15cm or 12” length. If you wish to sew the shoulder seams instead, bind off all 31 stitches.
To complete the other shoulder, start at the neck edge from the purl side with Row 2.
Row 2: P2T, P31, turn your work.
Row 3: K30, K2T, place stitches on a holder as Row 3 above or bind off for sewn seams and put this piece aside.

Front: You will make two pieces, mirroring the instructions for the right side.
Left Front: Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to end.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 10 stitches, 1 per row over ten rows. You should have 25 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 29. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 41 stitches on your needle.
Work another 14 rows of stocking stitch (15 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a knit row so you are ready to shape the front neck purl row.

Shape Left Front Neck:
Row 1: (Purl or wrong side of work), bind of 6 stitches at the beginning of the row. P34.
Row 2: (Knit or right side of work), K all stitches.
Row 3: P2T, P33.
Row 4: K all stitches.
Row 5: P2T, P32.
Row 6: K all stitches.
Row 7: P2T, P 31.
Row 8: K all stitches.
Row 9: P2T, P30. Your stitch count is 31 stitches to match your back shoulder.

Work stocking stitch straight until you have worked a total of 32 rows from the sleeve increase. Join the front to the back left side with a 3needle bind off here. To do this pick up the stitches from the back off of the holder onto a needle and bind them off together with a third needle or crochet hook. There are YouTube videos that can show you how if you need that instruction.
If you are sewing your shoulder seams, bind off the shoulder and put this piece aside with the back.

Right Front: Complete as the left side. Make sure that you reverse the increases and decreases to make a mirror of the left side.

Sew up the side seams and your cardigan is done except for the crochet edging that includes the buttonholes.

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

Fun With Food!

It has been a really busy, busy week and I haven’t had time to finish anything for you by blog time. So, instead of babbling on about something knitting or crochet related, I thought that I would turn to my next great love, food.

         

Every morning we have a mix of fruit and berries with our breakfast. I always top DH’s with a little cereal and yogurt for some extra protein. A little while ago, I got bored with the plain white yogurt on top of everything else and decided to jazz it up a bit.

         

We have a tradition of making faces with the components of the rest of our meal anyway so what is one step further? Animal faces, of course and the trend was born.
These are some of the little faces that I make to bring a smile to my sweetheart’s face and what better way to start the day than with a smile?

         

I have been working on the crochet pattern that I promised you and, with luck and some spare time, should have it the sample finished this weekend.

I have also finished a couple of machine knit cardigans like the one I posted a couple of weeks ago to add to my craft sale stock. These are just so soft and cozy feeling that I want one for myself!

I have almost finished the hand knit sample of this little sweater and hope to get that pattern to you in the next couple of weeks.

Knitting

Whining About the Cold and Some Cute Hats

It is winter and still snowing (and snowing and snowing).  It is really cold again here and I am ready for spring.  Okay enough whining already, I can hear you thinking that.  Maybe I should be wining and then I wouldn’t care about whining or snow!

I wrote a pattern last summer for a little jumper (tunic not sweater) that is sized from six months to three years.  I made the sample up in a light pink colour, hence the name Pink Ice Cream, available to you as a paid pattern on Ravelry here.  It is a very easy and straight forward knit in the round piece if maybe a bit boring, think TV knitting, as it is mostly knit stitch.

Even though it is snowing (whining again here), it is a good time to consider spring knit and crochet projects.  If you have a little one that needs a little warmth for spring, this jumper is great over leggings and a long sleeved Tshirt.  The paid pattern is available on Ravelry here for download.

Speaking of spring projects, I designed these little hats for the grandkids a few years ago and they thought that they were great.  Crocheted with kitchen cotton, they were quick to make and a lot of fun to design.

If you are still in winter mode and need a cute hat for someone five and under, here is another hat that I designed.  It is a free pattern on Ravelry here and is also a fairly easy make.  Have fun with it!  Think about changing the colours and making the tiger into a teddy.

How about a snowman?  This is another free pattern of mine on Ravelry here.

Keep warm if you live in the Great White North and enjoy the warmth if you are not.  Happy crafting until next week!

Knitting

Machine Knitting and a Crochet Teaser.

Wow, the week sure has flown by!  I have been busy with my knitting machine this week. 

These were made with self striping sock yarn with a little sacrificed cause I love matchy, matchy.

I have a bunch, okay a ton, no actually about a few hundred skeins of yarn from an ebay binge that I went on a couple of years ago.  You may have recognized the labels from my hat post two weeks ago.  I have to seriously purge my stash before it takes over the house and, as most of the yarn that I bought is sport or finer, the machine just called out to me!

The hat is lined for warmth!

I have had some problems in the past with static that these yarns hold.  I am not sure why but they are way more electric than any other yarn I have used.  It doesn’t seem to matter about the type of fibre.  I normally rewind the skeins into a cake for machine knitting to suss out any knots or imperfections before they hit the tension mast or the carriage and cause a major patterning fail.  Plus, it hurts like crazy when the weights hit your feet as the knitting drops off the needles!  I held a damp wash cloth in my hand and let the yarn run through it while tensioning and, voila, no static!  Why didn’t I think of this years ago??

I am working on a pattern for a toddler’s cardigan, machine knit, with a hand crocheted edge.  The sample turned out really cute, so I am experimenting with sizing now.  I always like to offer a pattern in multiple sizes and, although I know how to do the math from gauge for hand knits and crochet, machine knitting is a little different.  As the samples are quick to knit and can be added to my sales inventory, I am making one in each size to ensure that the pattern is correct.  It will be written out and on sale next week.

Samples ready for blocking and finishing.

I am also working on a hand knit version in worsted weight as I liked the machine knit one so much.  That pattern is going to take just a little bit longer.

I am also working on a crochet pattern for you.  I have a vision of a shawl that I have been cooking in my brain for the last ten months.  I made a sample over the summer but didn’t like it enough to finish it.  I have been mulling over the best stitch pattern to achieve the look that I want and have arrived at a winner I think.  I will let you know how it goes!  Here is a teaser.

Don’t forget about my half price offer on the Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns, coupon code 50OFF in my Ravelry store!

Knitting

Back to Reality and a Gift For You.

Is everyone back to normal after the midwinter Christmas and New Year’s break?  It takes some doing doesn’t it, to get back into the routine of everyday living.

I was away for much of December on a (for me) trip of a life time.  I spent three weeks travelling New Zealand and Southeast Australia, a bucket list destination.  We had a wonderful time and had to be dragged, kicking and screaming, to the airport to come home!

It is now time for reality again and back to cold winter and awesome crocheted and knit accessories and sweaters.  As promised, I have been working my tail off to finish (or rather refinish) the poncho that I started in the fall.  I am happy to say that it came off the needles yesterday and I completed the sewing up last night ready to block.  I am really, really happy with the resulting garment and will be posting the pattern in the next week.  In the meantime, here is a glimpse of the detail on the front and back and a picture of the yarn that I used, purchased at Stash Lounge in Calgary.

                            

I need to get to work next on that crocheted wrap that I promised you as well.  I had almost completed a sample in October but was unhappy with the look; it just wasn’t what I envisioned.  Too bad that you can’t take a picture from your brain and make it real.  Anyway, I have rethought the process and I think that I now have an idea of how I want to put it together.  Hopefully it will be a reality before the end of the month!

Crocheting was my first love and, even though knitting seems to have taken over, I enjoy the more three-dimensional process of hook and yarn.  I am using an ordinary acrylic (Loops and Threads) from Michaels to create something that, if my vision doesn’t get ahead of my craft again, will be extraordinary.  I am excited about this project!

This crocheted little kid’s cardigan is a paid pattern in my Ravelry store but, as it has been such a long time since I published my last new free pattern, here is gift for you:

Worked top down, this little cardigan is light and lacey.  It looks great on its own or with a long sleeved T underneath.  Pair it with leggings or jeans to make your little princess look dressed up while you know that she is comfortable.

Sizes: 12 months, 18/24 months, 2/3 years

Materials:

Red Heart Soft or equivalent worsted weight yarn: 175 m/195 yds white, 225 m/250 yds contrasting colour, 5mm crochet hook, four small buttons to match, large eyed needle for sewing in ends.

Abbreviations:    sc = single crochet               dc = double crochet

tc = treble crochet

 

Gauge: (Blocked) 4 sc or 4 dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch, 2rows dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch

Custer Stitch: wrap yarn around hook once to begin a double crochet, work into stitch below and draw up a loop, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops only.  Wrap yarn again and draw a loop through the same stitch, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops. Repeat this again and then wrap yarn and pull through all four loops on hook.

Begin cardigan at neck edge:

With white, ch 49, (61, 73)

Row 1: sc in each ch starting at 2nd ch from hook. 48, (60, 72) sc

Row 2: sc 7, (9, 11), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 16, (18, 20), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 7, (9, 11), ch 1 and turn. 56, (68, 80) sc

Row 3: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn. Repeat this row for 2nd and 3rd size.

Row 4: sc 8, (10, 13), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 18, (20, 22), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), ch 2 and turn. 64, (76, 88) sc

Row 5: dc 9, (11, 13), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 20, (22, 24), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 9, (11, 13), ch 2 and turn. 72, (84, 96) dc

Row 6: dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 20, (24, 26), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), ch 2 and turn. 80, (92, 104) dc

Row 7: dc 11, (13, 15), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 24, (26, 28), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 11, (13, 15), ch 2 and turn. 88, (100, 112) dc

Row 8: Change to contrast colour, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * working cluster and ch 1 in extra dc at sleeve increases to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. 42, (50, 58) clusters

Row 9: Change to white, ch3, slip st in 1st chain 1 space, (ch3, slip st) in each ch1 space to end, ch3 and slip st to last dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 10: dc 2 in each ch 3 space to end, dc in slip st, fasten off.  Bodice is complete.

Row 11: Change to contrast colour, ch 2, dc in each dc across front to sleeve corner = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across back to sleeve corner = 28, (30, 32) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across front = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 12: dc in each dc across front, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across back, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across front, ch 2 and turn.

Row 13: dc 18, (20, 22), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 32, (34, 36), 3 dc in ext dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 18, (20, 22), ch 2 and turn.

Row 14: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 15: dc 19, (21, 23) 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 34, (36, 38), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 19, (21, 23) ch2 and turn.

Row 16: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 17: dc 20, (22, 24), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 36, (38, 40), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 20, (22, 24), ch2 and turn.

Row 18: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 19: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 20: Change to white, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 21: ch 3, sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3 repeat * to * to last st, sc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 22: dc in 1st dc, * cluster st in next ch3 space, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 23: Change to contrast colour, ch 2 and dc in 1st st, 3 dc in each ch 1 space across to last 2 dc, dc in each st, ch 3 and turn.

Row 24: tc in next dc, 2 tc in next dc repeat from * to * to end, ch3 and turn.

Row 25: tc in each tc across, ch 1 and turn.

Row 26: sc in 1st st, skip next 2 tc, (dc, ch 1 four times, dc into next tc), skip next 2 tc, sc in next tc, repeat * to * to end, sc in last st. Do not fasten off.

Right front edge:

Row 1: sc 44 evenly along right front edge, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 5 sc *, repeat * to * 3 times more, (this makes your buttonholes) sc in each remaining sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc working 1 sc in each ch 2 space. Fasten off.

Left front edge:

Row 1: join contrast colour at neck edge of right side and work 44 sc evenly along edge, ch1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc, fasten off.

Neck edge:

Row 1: join white at edge of front band, ch 1 and sc in first st, sc in each sc to sleeve start, skip 1 sc and sc across sleeve to corner, skip 1 sc and continue across, skipping 1 sc at each edge of second sleeve, ch 1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, skipping 1 sc at sleeve corners, fasten off.

Sleeve edge:

Row 1: join white at right side edge of white, sc across, ch1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, fasten off.

Repeat these two rows on second sleeve edge.

Weave in ends and block lightly.

Sew buttons to left front edge to match buttonholes on right.