Knitting

The Second Part is Coming Soon!

I wanted to have part two of my Northern Rose Shawl pattern up for you today but I am about a day away from finishing the test of this section. I have revised my original knit to expand the lace pattern out to the edges where the stitch increases happen. I like the result and I hope that you will too. I should have it up this weekend for you. Stay tuned to facebook or subscribe to my blog to have instant access to new posts.


In the meantime, I have been getting another pattern ready for you and will be posting it to Ravelry as a paid pattern. You can get it here first (and free) so stay tuned for that too!

Summer is in full swing and although it is hot, hot, hot, we still need to knit and crochet to keep our hands busy and our minds engaged and soothed. I like to work on small projects this time of year. I am currently knitting a pair of socks for DH that are made with sock yarn dyed in the colours of the Seattle Seahawks, his favourite NFL team. I have one finished but have put the second on hold while I finish the shawl pattern.


I have the urge to start some hats and have the pattern in mind that I want to create. I will use bulky yarn to make a quick and, hopefully, really cute head cover for the winter that we all know is coming.


And, just to show you that I really have startitis, I am working on a top down kid’s sweater. I am really pushing it here but if there is no pressure I don’t seem to get anything done!
Watch for my post this weekend to get the next episode of the shawl and stay cool!

Knitting

Beat the Heat

Okay, I know that it is hot but there is still time in the day to knit or crochet or both.  This time of the year, in the Northern Hemisphere at least, it is nice to have a list of simple small projects to work on.  I tend to make toys, hats and cowls or other small items this time of the year to keep the project from becoming a blanket on my lap.  Kids or baby sweaters are also good summer needle arts projects.

Are you like me and in a bit of a panic to have enough stock for craft sales this fall?  I have a few free and paid patterns on Ravelry here that are great for sale stock.  They are quick to make, don’t take a lot of yarn and sell really well.  They are also great for charity knitting which is another great way to spend your summer crafting time.  These items are always welcome, especially the toys, in the winter months.

I have being looking through project pages and other sites to see what other projects will fit into the it’s too hot to knit a blanket weather and still keep that I have to craft urge satisfied.  I found a surprising number of small things to work on.

Socks, socks and more socks seem to be the most popular item to make with hats, mittens, and cowls the next.  I did come across crocheted jewelry, an art that I always forget about.  I was given a crocheted pearl ring and choker set by my DH when we first started dating.  I knew right then that he was a keeper and still have that pretty jewelry.

There a number of patterns for crocheted bracelets that have beads or not and look really lovely.  I have a couple of them on the project list to try while I am sitting on the patio.  They will make pretty gifts for the granddaughters.

Crocheted or knitted squares are another great small project.  They can be all the same or a variety of stitch patterns.  I usually opt for a variety as I am easily bored with the style of the same pattern repeated.  I made this little lap blanket from a Bernat booklet some years ago to learn cable knitting.  I fell in love with the style of since progressed to Aran sweaters.

Learning a new style or skill is another great reason to work on small projects during the hot months.  I learned to make hairpin lace last May and still have the project sitting in a bag.  It will be placed front and centre in my UFO basket as it is light and airy enough to work on without discomfort.

Have a look through your patterns, pick a cool yarn and get busy!  There really is a way to beat the heat and keep on crafting.

Spoiler Alert: New Shawl Pattern Next Week!

Knitting

Designer Rant

I have a need to rant this week.  I read from time to time about how some crafters will use a pattern and sell the finished goods.  For some reason, there are those who are outraged by the idea that the crafter is making money from someone else’s design.

I am not talking about a company mass producing and selling hundreds or thousands of the end product but a craftsperson maybe selling a couple or more at a craft sale or on the internet.  I am also not talking about reproducing the pattern itself (copyright) or selling the item as self designed; give credit where it is due.

I guess that I take exception to the outrage mostly because there are no truly new designs in the world.  There are only old ideas represented.  There are finite stitch combinations and colour choices.  There are only so many ways to calculate the number of stitches needed for any particular size on any particular needle or hook and there are so very many patterns that are exactly the same.

An example of the fact that two people do think alike is the cocoon shrug.  There are several patterns on the web, both paid and free, that, if you looked at them without seeing the attendant “designed by” would assume that the same person had written them all.  How can each of these be unique to the particular designer?  How could you ever say that this or that person had stolen your intellectual property and is now selling the finished product that they, not the designer, created, for a profit.  How could you ever claim that it was even your pattern that they used and not someone else’s or even their own?

Another example would be Aran or Irish knit sweaters.  The traditional cable patterns are repeated on many different knits that look similar if not the same.  Does this mean that all of the pattern writers that produce Aran knits are guilty of taking credit for a design that is not theirs?

I design and write patterns.  I know that there are many hours spent creating, writing, rewriting, editing and rewriting again only to proof read, test and rewrite once more.  You publish the pattern and, thank goodness, read and respond to the questions and suggestions, most of them really good, that follow.  You design to share your inspiration and vision with the world, not so that you can take possession of it and hold it close.  Being a designer and pattern writer means having an open mind and a thick skin.  It is just like in kindergarten, not everyone will play the game the same way that you think they should.

I rarely knit or crochet a pattern as written; I always change some part of it to make it more appealing or easier to work for me.  Does that mean that the design is now mine?  If I wrote the pattern with my revisions is it a new pattern?

I don’t write on my patterns that the finished items cannot be sold.  I am flattered that a crafts person thinks that my design is worthy of making and selling.  On those that I know from my own experience are good craft sale items, I will comment that this pattern is quick and easy and makes for great craft sale inventory.  How would you police this anyway?  The world is too big and time is too short to obsess over the uncontrollable.

I am not in any way condoning copyright infringement.  I think that credit should be given to those original thinkers among us.  I just want talented crafters to be given their due on their handiwork making items from our patterns and to turn away the protest and guilt ladled out to them for being industrious.

Knitting

Making a Yarn Over at the Beginning of a Row and the Delphinium Scarf Pattern

               

 

I made this pretty scarf/shawl to use a skein of skein of Red Heart Super Saver that I bought on a whim.  I liked the colour; what can I say, blue is right after green as my favourite hue. I used an antique lace edging and worked the whole thing sideways with short row shaping so that it curves nicely to stay on your shoulders.

Seed or moss stitch is a great way to hide those wraps on the short rows.  The scarf is reversible which is another plus.

The pattern is free and includes a photo tutorial on how to make the yarn overs at the beginning of a knit row which is a really nice edging on any project.

From the picture, the pattern looks complicated but it really isn’t.  The lace and main body knit together makes for a scarf that is easy to adjust in length and avoids the stress of joining the two pieces later.

When you are done, you are done, except the ends and blocking of course.  This knit has a lot going on so please read through the pattern before you cast on.

I hope that you enjoy my pattern and that you will post a photo if you decide to make it.

Delphinium Shoulder Scarf

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, 200 metres or 225 yards, 5.5mm or US 9 needles, one pair single points or one circular, a stitch marker

Gauge: not really important but I knit at 5 stitches to 2.5cm or 1 inch. My scarf is 127cm or 50″ by 28cm or 11″.

Abbreviations:

K = knit

P = purl

St = stitch

K2Tog = knit the next 2 stitches together

P2Tog = purl the next two stitches together

K3Tog = knit the next 3 stitches together

YO = yarn over

M1 = lift the bar between two stitches and place it on left hand needle, knit or purl through the back of the stitch to twist the stitch and prevent a hole.

W&T = wrap and turn, slip the next st onto the right hand needle, move yarn around the slipped stitch to the front, slip the stitch back onto the left hand needle, turn your work.

 

Seed Stitch:

R1: K1, P1 across. This is the neck edge and will always start with a knit stitch.

R2: P1, K1 across if the stitch count is even, if not then purl the knits and knit the purls as they are facing you.  I will note whether to start with a knit or purl in the instructions for each row. All even rows will end with a knit stitch.

 

Lace Edging: 16 Rows, stitch counts are for the lace edge only and do not include the seed stitch portion.

R1: K2, YO, K2Tog, K4, YO, K3Tog, (K1, YO) twice, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 18 st.

R2: YO, K2Tog, K to marker. All even rows are knit the same so will not be written out again. I have included a photo tutorial at the end of the instructions for YO at the beginning of a row. Even rows end at R16.

R3: K7, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K3, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 19 st.

R5: K2, YO, K2Tog, K2, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K5, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 20 St.

R7: K5, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K7, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 21 st.

R9: K2, YO, K2Tog, K8, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 20 st.

R11: K11, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 19 st.

R13: K2, YO, K2Tog, K6, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 18 st.

R15: K9, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 17 st.

R16: repeat row 2.

 

Scarf Instructions: I have divided the instructions into five parts, increase, straight, short rows, straight, and decrease. The straight part will be repeated on both sides of the short row section.

 

Increase Part: In this part you will be making a stitch (M1) on the seed stitch side of the marker at R2, R6, R10, and R14.  You will repeat this part four times and end up with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section. Stitch counts at the end on the row are for the first repeat; the second, third, and fourth repeats are in brackets.

 Cast on 20 stitches and knit 1 row.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 3 stitches. Place a marker that will stay as a divider between the lace and seed stitch for the whole project. Continue after marker with R1 of the lace edging.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, M1 in purl, K1, P1 to end = 4 st (8, 12, 16) after marker.

R3: Seed stitch over first 4 st, bring yarn to the back, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work even row of lace, slip marker, start with a purl and seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch over first 4 st, bring yarn to the back, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in knit, P1, K1 to end = 5 st (9, 13, 17) after marker.

R7: Seed stitch over first 5 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work even row of lace, slip marker, K1, P1, to end.

R9: Seed stitch over first 5 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in purl, K1, P1 to end = 6 st (10, 14, 18) after marker.

R11: Work seed stitch over first 6 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work even row of lace, slip marker, P1, K1 to end.

R13: Work seed stitch over first 6 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R14: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in knit, P1 K1 to end = 7 st (11, 15, 19) after marker.

R15: Work seed stitch over first 7 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work even row of lace, slip marker, K1, P1 to end.

Repeat the increase part three more times.  You will have 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and 4 lace repeats.

 

Straight Part: In this part, you will continue with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and the lace edging as written. Every row of the seed stitch section will start with a knit stitch.  You can relax and not worry about changes for two whole repeats.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R3: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R7: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R9: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R11: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R13: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R15: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

 

Repeat this part one more time for two repeats of the straight part.  At this point you will have a total of six repeats of the lace edging and 19 st in seed stitch.  If you are not sure, count the points as each repeat creates one point of edging.

 

Short Row Part: In this part you will creating the curve at the neck edge of your scarf.  You will still maintain 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and work the lace as you have been.  All of the short rows are in the seed stitch section so no need to worry about changing the lace rows.

R1: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 7 st, W&T.

R3: Starting with a knit stitch, work 7 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 7 st, pick up wrap and purl 8th st, seed stitch to end.

R5: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 15 st, W&T.

R7: Starting with a knit stitch, work 15 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 15 st, pick up wrap and purl 16th st, seed stitch to end.

R9: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 15 st, W&T.

R11: Starting with a knit stitch, work 15 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 15 st, pick up wrap and purl 16th st, seed stitch to end.

R13: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 7 st, W&T.

R15: Starting with a knit stitch, work 7 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 7 st, pick up wrap and purl 8th st, seed stitch to end.

You will repeat the short row part five more times for a total of six short row repeats.  It takes a little concentration but the end result is worth the little extra thought while you are knitting.  At this point you will have a grand total of twelve repeats of the lace edging and you are two thirds of the way to done.  It is smooth sailing from here.

 

Straight Part: In this part, you will continue with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and the lace edging as written. Every row of the seed stitch section will start with a knit stitch.  You can relax and not worry about changes for two whole repeats.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R3: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R7: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R9: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R11: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R13: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R15: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

Repeat this part one more time for two repeats of the straight part.  At this point you will have a total of fourteen repeats of the lace edging and 19 st in seed stitch.  If you are not sure, count the points as each repeat creates one point of edging.  Only one part and four more repeats of lace to go.

 

Decrease Part: In this part you will shape the end of your scarf to match the beginning.  You start out with 19 st in the seed stitch section and, after four repeats, you will end up at three stitches in seed stitch.  All decreases are worked between the lace and seed stitch and follow right after slipping the marker.  The lace edging remains as written throughout this part as well so no confusion there. Seed stitch counts are for the first repeat only, the second, third and fourth repeat counts are in brackets.

Note: A decrease is made by working two stitches together.  You should always work K2Tog or P2Tog to match the second stitch of the stitches being worked together so that your seed stitch pattern remains correct.

R1: Work seed stitch for the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, P2Tog, seed stitch to end, 18 st (14, 10, 6) after marker.

R3: Work seed stitch st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, start with a purl st and seed stitch to end.

R5: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, K2Tog, seed stitch to end, 17 st (13, 9, 5) after marker.

R7: Work seed, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, start with a knit st and seed stitch to end.

R9: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, P2Tog, seed stitch to end, 16 st (12, 8, 4) after marker.

R11: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, start with a purl st and seed stitch to end.

R13: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, K2Tog, seed stitch to end. 15 st (11, 7, 3) after marker.

R15: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, start with a knit st and seed stitch to end.

Repeat this part three more times for a total of four repeats of the Decrease Part.  Each repeat decreases four stitches in the seed stitch section.  After four repeats you should have 3 seed stitches and 17 lace edging stitches.  Cast off.

 

You will have 18 lace points when you are finished.  Weave in your ends and block your pretty new scarf.

 

How to make a yarn over at the beginning of a row:

Start with your yarn over instead of under your right hand needle.

 

Slide your right hand needle through the first two stitches on your left hand needle for knit two together.

Wrap your yarn over top of the right hand needle and around to make a stitch.

Pull the yarn through to complete your knit two together.  You can see that the yarn that came over the right hand needle makes a stitch.

Here you can more clearly see that the yarn over, knit two together at the beginning of a row results in two stitches on the right hand needle when you are finished.

 

Here you see the final result; a pretty loop edge to your garter rows.

 

 

Knitting

Little Lovely Lacey Cardigan

A friend loved my adult cardigan and really wanted to make it for her grandkids so the little version was born.

I included sizes 1/2 to 8 in the pattern as I really think that it will look pretty on kids from toddler to big girl. It is a fairly easy make if you know how to both knit and crochet as I used only basic stitches; stocking stitch for the knit part and crochet stitches from chain to treble crochet.

I had so much fun knitting and crocheting this little version of my adult pattern.  Thanks for looking in and enjoy the pattern now available here.

Sizes: Girls 1/2, 3/4, 5, 6, 8.  Chest measurements when cardigan is closed with 5cm or 2″ of positive ease: 51, (56, 61, 66, 72)cm or 20, (22, 24, 26, 28)”.

Materials: 425 to 675m or 470 to 750 yds of DK weight yarn.  I used washable wool but this cardigan would be nice made with any soft yarn including cotton.

Tools: 4.5mm, US 7 knitting needles, 4.0mm, US G/6 crochet hook, removable stitch marker, large tapestry needle, 3, (3, 5, 6, 6) buttons, optional stitch holder.

Gauge:  Knit: 22 stitches x 32 rows = 10cm or 4″

Crochet: 13 (ch1, dc) x 11 rows = 10cm or 4″

Abbreviations:

Knit:   K= knit

P = purl

K2tog = knit 2 stitches together

Crochet:  ch = chain

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

tr = treble crochet