Tag: free pattern

Knitting

New Hat With Cables!

Iris Rose

             

I went stash diving last week and came up with two pretty yarns that look really good together.  I found a single skein of Sirdar’s Crofter Chunky (clearance basket!) and one of those unknown fibre mill end bags that looks just like Bernat Softee Chunky (sale at Michael’s, I am the Queen!).   As a result, today I have a new hat pattern for you.  I know, I know, winter is a long way off but now is a good time to start your gift knitting and this hat is part of a set.  Plus, the matching cowl will be coming at you in the next couple of weeks and small projects are great for summer knitting.

The hat is knit in chunky yarn and is a great way to introduce yourself to cables.  It is a fairly easy knit but you will have to pay attention to your row count.  There is no chart for the cables but the pattern is written out with clear explanations and I am always available for questions here or on Ravelry.  I really need to get a better model don’t I!

Dig through your stash and find that perfect yarn for that special knitworthy someone or maybe use this free only here on my blog pattern for charity knitting.  Either way, just have fun with it.

At the end of this post I am featuring a photo of the start of a new crochet pattern that I am working on.  I thought it was time to switch up my craft choice for this project and get my crojo working again!

 

Cable Hat

This is an easy to knit hat, standard size, that lets you branch out a little from plain stocking stitch.  It is knit in the round so no seams!  To finish, all you need to do is close the top and weave in a couple of ends.  If you need to adjust the size, use a larger needle up to 6.5mm or US 10.5.

 

Materials: Chunky yarn, 40m or 44 yds for the ribbing and 90m or 99yds for the crown.  I used Sirdar Crofter Chunky for the band and Bernat Softee Chunky for the crown because that is what I had in my stash.

Tools: 5.5mm or US 9 circular needle (40cm, 16”, or smaller), 5.5mm or US 9, DPN’s, stitch markers.

Abbreviations:          

K = knit                       P = purl

K2tog = right slanting decrease, knit two stiches together

SSK = left slanting decrease, slip two stitches knitwise and place them back on the left needle. Knit them together.  An easier left slanting decrease is to simply knit two together through the back loop.

S2K1PSSO = centred double decrease, slip two stitches, knit the next then pass the two slipped stitches over the knit one.

C2F = twist two knit stitches: knit into the back of the second stitch on the left needle, leaving it on the needle, knit in the front of the first stitch on the left needle and move them both to the right needle together.

C3F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next stitch on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

C4F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next two stitches on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

 

Band: With the yarn that you are going to use for the band, cast on 78 stitches and join to knit in the round.  Place a marker at the join to mark the beginning of the round and slip it at the end on each round.

Rnds 1 and 2: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnd 3: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnds 4 to 6: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnd 7: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnds 8 to 11: Repeat Rnds 4 to 7.

Rnds 12 and 13: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2.

Change yarn here if you are using two colours or continue with the same yarn for a single colour.

Crown: The crown is divided into six sections of thirteen stitches.  If you are unsure of the pattern, use a stitch marker between each section.  Make sure that you use a different colour or have some other way to note where you rounds end or your cables will be messed up.

Rnds 1 and 2: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnd 3: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnds 4 to 7: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnd 8: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Repeat Rnds 4 to 8 three more times.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 one time.

The next round will start the decrease for the crown.  You will be decreasing on every third round so make sure that you keep track of the cable rows separately from the decrease rounds.  You will need to switch to DPN’s, or two cable needles or magic loop when the stitch count drops.

Rnd 26: (K4, P1, SSK, K3, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 27: (K4, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 28: (C4F, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 29: (K4, P1, SSK, K1, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnds 30 and 31: (K4, P1, K3, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 32: (K4, P1, S2K1PSSO, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 33: (C4F, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 34: (K4, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 35: (K4, S2K1PSSO) repeat six times around.

Rnds 36 and 37: K all stitches.

Rnd 39: (C3F, K2tog) repeat six times around.

Rnd 40: K all stitches.

Rnd 41: (K2, K2tog) repeat six times around.

Cut a long tail and take off the remaining eighteen stitches around with a tapestry needle.  Pull tight and thread the tail to the inside.  Secure it by weaving through the stitches in the last round and trim.

Weave in any other ends and trim.  Block your hat lightly if you choose but do not block the ribbing band.

And here is a sneak peek at my latest effort with the hook.  I have been visualizing this piece for some time and thought I better get off my duff and work it out!

 

Knitting

Knit and Sewn Dress for a Little Girl

Iris Rose

I love these little dresses.  The skirt is full and fun and the bodice is a cozy knit.  I have seen dresses similar to this on Pinterest but have been unable to find a pattern that works for me.

When you can’t find a pattern, what do you do?  You write one of your own of course!

I love to crochet and sew as well as knit so have combined all of these crafts in this little dress.  I have a really soft cotton and acrylic blend worsted weight yarn in my stash (don’t get me started on ebay and my affair with the same a couple of years ago) and thought that it would make a pretty top for the dress that I had in mind.

The skirt is the bottom of a new lady’s skirt that I found on a clearance rack for a couple of bucks and bought with the idea of repurposing the fabric.  Remember, I am the Queen of Clearance!  I cut it off to the right length, already hemmed and gathered it to fit the bottom edge of the bodice.

I found buttons in my collection that matched and voila, done!

Here is the pattern as I made it.  I have included four sizes for you.

Child’s Dress Bodice

This dress bodice pattern is designed to attach to a sewn skirt to make a pretty and comfortable dress for your sweetie.  The bodice is knit top down with worsted weight yarn and is a really easy knit.  You can customize the top by making it longer or shorter or even turning this basic pattern into a cardigan by omitting the skirt, making it hip length, and finishing the bottom with the pretty edging.

Sizes: 2, (4, 6, 8)

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, I used a cotton and acrylic blend, 150m (165 yards) to 280m (310 yards), 4, (5, 6, 6) buttons. Fabric for the dress skirt, 115cm (45”) wide and the desired length of the skirt plus 6cm (2.25”) for the hem and gathers.

Tools: 5.5mm (US 9), 80cm (32”) circular needle, 5mm (US 8 or H) crochet hook for optional edging, 6 stitch markers, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 16 stitches x 24 rows = 10cm or 4”

Cast on 66, (72, 80, 88) stitches.

Rows 1 to 3: Knit 3 rows, next row is right side and you will divide for the fronts, back and sleeves placing markers as you go.

Note 1: The first four stitches on every row are knit to make the bands.  Buttonholes are worked starting on the fourth row and on every twelfth row after that.  You will make three on size 2, four on size 4, and 5 on size 6 and 8.  The extra button is sewn on through both layers after the fronts are joined to balance the functioning buttons.

Note 2: All yarn overs are purled or knit through the back loop on the wrong side rows.  This will give you a smaller buttonhole and a smaller increase hole at the sleeve/body joins.  If you wish to you can, of course, work them as usual but your holes will be significantly larger.  You will need larger buttons.

Row 4: Right side of work.  K4, place marker, K8, (9, 11, 12), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K10, (11, 12, 13), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K19, (21, 23, 27), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K10, (11, 12, 13), YO, place marker, K1, YO, K7, (8, 9, 11, ), place marker, K2tog, YO, K2 (buttonhole made).

Row 5 and all wrong side rows: K4, slip marker, P across slipping markers as you go to last marker, slip marker, K4.

Rows 6 to 14: K4, slip marker, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, slip marker, K4.

Row 16: K4, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, YO, K1 to next marker, slip marker, K2tog, YO, K2 (buttonhole made).

Continue working increases as in Row 6, make a buttonhole on every twelfth row on the right front band.

Size 2: Stop when you are finished Row 25 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 19 front left stitches, 33 left sleeve stitches, 42 back stitches, 33 right sleeve stitches, 19 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

Size 4: Stop when you are finished Row 31 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 23 front left stitches, 40 left sleeve stitches, 50 back stitches, 40 right sleeve stitches, 23 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

Size 6: Stop when you are finished Row 35 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 25 front left stitches, 44 left sleeve stitches, 56 back stitches, 44 right sleeve stitches, 25 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

Size 8: Stop when you are finished Row 39 (wrong side).  You should have 4 bands stitches, 30 front left stitches, 50 left sleeve stitches, 64 back stitches, 50 right sleeve stitches, 30 right front stitches, and 4 band stitches.  Move to the transition row.

You will need to have a separate end of your yarn to finish the sleeves, one at a time, so that you don’t need to cut your main working yarn.  You can use the other end of your working ball or start a new one.  You can cut if you choose but it will mean more ends to weave in!

Transition Row: Sleeves will be finished and front and back of body joined. K4, slip marker, K across the left front to next marker, drop your working yarn and, with a new end of yarn, K 4 rows back and forth (garter stitch) on left sleeve stitches only, removing markers after the first row.  Cast off sleeves stitches on right side.  Pick up your working yarn, turn your work around and cast on three stitches at the end of the last stitch.  Turn the work back and K across the back to the next marker, drop your working yarn and, with a new end of yarn, K 4 rows back and forth (garter stitch) on right sleeve stitches only, removing markers after the first row.  Cast off sleeves stitches on right side.  Pick up your working yarn, turn your work around and cast on three stitches at the end of the last stitch.  Turn the work back and K across the right front to the next marker, slip marker K4.

Work back and forth on the body only from here.

Row 1: K4, slip marker, P to next marker, slip marker, K4.

Row 2: K4, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, K4.

Size 2: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice more and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 8 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Size 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 12 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Size 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six more times and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 16 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Size 8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight more and then repeat Row 1 once for a total of 20 rows on the body section.  Cast off on right side.

Overlap the front bands and stitch together at the bottom.  Sew sleeve edges together and stitch to cast on stitches under the arm on the body.  Weave in ends.  Sew on buttons on the left front band to match buttonholes on the right.  Sew the extra button near the bottom of the overlapped bands at the same spacing as the buttonholes.

The bottom may be left plain, edged with purchased lace or finished with a crocheted edging like the sample.

Crocheted edging: The trim is based on a seven stitch repeat.

Rnd 1: Starting at either side, join yarn, ch 1 and work 84, (91, 98, 105) sc over the cast off stitches at the bottom edge.  Join with a slip stitch.

Rnd 2: Ch3, skip 3 sc, slip st into 4th sc, skip next 2 sc, (dc, ch1) 4 times, dc in same sc, repeat to around. After last slip st, (dc, ch1) four times at starting ch3 and join with slip st to second ch of ch3.

Rnd 3: (Slip st into first ch1 space of next shell, ch2, slip st in same space, slip st in next ch1 space, ch2, slip st in same space three more times).  Repeat around, join with slip stitch into first slip st and fasten off.

Weave in your ends and block your dress bodice.

Unblocked, ready to finish

Skirt: Cut two pieces of fabric each 58cm (22.5”) wide and the length that you want the skirt to be (anywhere from 20cm (8”) to 50cm (20”) to fit your little one) plus 6cm (2.25”) for the hem and gathered seam allowance.

Finish cut edges with an overcast stitch or serge to stop fraying.

Sew side seams.

Run a gathering thread around the top edge and gather to fit the bottom edge of the bodice.

Stitch the bodice bottom edge to the skirt by lapping the top over the gathered edge and stitching with a matching thread by machine or hand.

Turn up a 4cm (1.5”) hem and stitch with a hem stitch.

Knitting

Northern Rose Shawl Part Three

Iris Rose

I have test knit my new shawl pattern a couple of times and am confident that there are few if no errors.  If you do find one, please, please, please let me know!  You can message me in the comments or on Ravelry.  I always like to correct any errors as soon as they are found and really appreciate everyone’s input into making my patterns easier to use.  Thanks!

I have knit this shawl in both a worsted weight and a four ply.  I used a 5.5mm needle for the worsted and a 4.5mm for the four ply (sock) weight.  Both turned out really pretty and, while the worsted is very winter snuggly, the light one is lovely and drapey.  The same pattern made two very different fabrics so the choice is yours on the look and feel that you want.

Now, without further rambling, here is part three of the Northern Rose Shawl.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!

Edge Lace Pattern:

Row 1: K1, slip marker, YO, K to last stitch, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and all wrong side rows: K all stitches slipping the markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat to last marker, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K1, YO, K4, S2K1PSSO, K4, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, K1, (K2, YO, K3, S2K1PSSO, K3, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, K2, (K3, YO, K2, S2K1PSSO, K2, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, (K1, YO, K3, YO, K1, S2K1PSSO, K1, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.  Pattern repeat stitch count is now 14.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2 (K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker K1.

Row 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO (K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1. Pattern repeat stitch count is now 16.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1 (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen times more, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, (K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, (K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.  Pattern repeat stitch count is now 18.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1 (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2 (K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3 (K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat seventeen more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K all stitches, remove the markers as you come to them.

Bind off knitwise on the wrong side using a stretchy bind off.  I used the following: K2, slip stitches back onto the left needle and K2tog to start then (K1, slide the two stitches on the right needle onto the left needle and K2tog) repeat across.  If you have another favourite that you like to use that’s fine just make sure that it is stretchy so that you can block out your lace.

Block and weave in ends.

Knitting

Okay, Part Two is Ready

Iris Rose

I have test knit part two of my Northern Rose Shawl and it is ready!  The pattern has changed slightly from the one in the photo as I have extended the lace patterning to the edges of the shawl at both the outside and centre areas.  I think that the finished look is nicer and more complete looking rather than having a straight knit part before the lace begins.  I hope that you enjoy this part of the shawl as much as I enjoyed creating it.  Part three will be up shortly.

Happy knitting!  Please keep in mind that webpage formatting is funny (not haha, either) and, in this case, will not allow me to use an asterix to mark the repeats.  Use the brackets as a guide.  Any stitches inside the brackets and in italics are to be repeated the given number of times.  Note also that the number of repeats grows as the width of the shawl grows.

Diamond Lace Section: you will maintain the centre lace panel while you are knitting the diamond lace on each side.

Row 1: K1, slip marker YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and every wrong side row: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2), repeat two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K9, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1, (K2, SSK, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1), repeat two more times, K2, SSK, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K1,(K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1), repeat two more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, ( K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK) repeat  two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat two more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, (S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO,) repeat two more times, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2togYO, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K8, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K2, YO, SSK, K8, YO, slip marker, K1.

Rows 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K10, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K10, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K5, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K1, slip marker, YO, K5, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K2, YO, SSK, K7, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K7, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 35: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 36: K all stitches slipping markers as you come to them.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!

Knitting

The Second Part is Coming Soon!

Iris Rose

I wanted to have part two of my Northern Rose Shawl pattern up for you today but I am about a day away from finishing the test of this section. I have revised my original knit to expand the lace pattern out to the edges where the stitch increases happen. I like the result and I hope that you will too. I should have it up this weekend for you. Stay tuned to facebook or subscribe to my blog to have instant access to new posts.


In the meantime, I have been getting another pattern ready for you and will be posting it to Ravelry as a paid pattern. You can get it here first (and free) so stay tuned for that too!

Summer is in full swing and although it is hot, hot, hot, we still need to knit and crochet to keep our hands busy and our minds engaged and soothed. I like to work on small projects this time of year. I am currently knitting a pair of socks for DH that are made with sock yarn dyed in the colours of the Seattle Seahawks, his favourite NFL team. I have one finished but have put the second on hold while I finish the shawl pattern.


I have the urge to start some hats and have the pattern in mind that I want to create. I will use bulky yarn to make a quick and, hopefully, really cute head cover for the winter that we all know is coming.


And, just to show you that I really have startitis, I am working on a top down kid’s sweater. I am really pushing it here but if there is no pressure I don’t seem to get anything done!
Watch for my post this weekend to get the next episode of the shawl and stay cool!