Tag: free

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

New Shawl, Free Pattern in Parts

Iris Rose

This week has been a finish before you are allowed to start anything else week. I made a deal with myself to get the stack of WIP’s finished even though I was dying to start something new. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

I did break that pact with myself (what can I say, I am weak, just weak!) and started a new shawl. I will post the pattern is parts starting below with the first section and continuing over the next few weeks. I had a cake of gradient yarn that was crying very loudly to be used and here is the beginning of what I hope will be something lovely.

I did manage to get caught up on the WIP’s; all are done except one and that one is close to finished. Anyhow, here is the beginning part to the shawl, a triangular one with a wider than normal spine.


Materials: 380m or 435 yds of sock weight gradient yarn. If you don’t have a gradient, go ahead and use any sock weight yarn that appeals to you. I was panting to use up this cake that I had in front of me since I bought it.  Like this one only a different colour as you can see above.

Tools: 4mm or US 6 circular needle, 60cm or 24” or longer, 4 stitch markers.

Note: you will start every row, once the garter tab is done, with slip one with the yarn in front and carry the yarn over to knit the next stitch. There will be a 4 stitch garter border on each side. The slipped stitch is knitted together with the yarn over on the return row to make a pretty braid look edge. If you want, you can simply knit 4 at the beginning and end of each row.

Start the shawl with a garter tab, that is cast on 4 stitches and knit 1 row. You will make the slip, yarn over only on one side for this part.
Row 2: Slip 1, yarn over and knit 3.
Row 3: Knit 4 (slipped stitch and yarn over knit together make the last stitch).
Repeat these two rows 4 more times, work Row 1 once more.
Pick up and knit 5 stitches along the side of the rows without the slipped stitches. Pick up and knit 4 stitches along the beginning edge.  Your garter tab is done.

 

Start the main part of the shawl from here.
Row 1: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, place marker, P5, place marker, K4, don’t forget to work the last stitch together with the yarn over.
Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, place marker, K5, place marker, YO, slip marker, K4.
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, P1, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P1, slip marker, K4.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4.
Row 5: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, P3, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P3, slip marker, K4.

Continue increasing by repeating Rows 4 and 5 with the number of stitches between the first and second markers growing by 2 on each side of the centre spine on each right side row.
Work in this pattern until you have 65 stitches between the first and second then third and fourth markers in each side on the five stitch spine.

If you have questions, you can contact me here or on Ravelry as Bluechicken.

Next week we will start on the first lace pattern section. Until then, have fun with this very easy shawl and have a happy week!

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

The Magic of Blocking

Iris Rose

So you are finished that beautiful piece of crochet or knitting, and, after all of your hard work, the piece looks like a crumpled bit of a yarny mess. It can be so disheartening after the hours and love that you have invested.

Blocking your piece will make a huge (and I mean massively amazing) difference in how the piece looks and also the size of what you have finished. You can see from the before and afters that blocking is time well spent.

     


Blocking can be done in a couple of ways. My favourite, for lace especially, is to soak the item and then pin it out to the size I want and let it dry overnight. This method works well with natural fibres. If I have used a synthetic fibre, I skip the soak, pin it out in the same way and steam it. I like to steam my shawls in particular so that the fibre softens and holds the stretched or pinned out shape. You do need to be careful not to overheat acrylic or you will end up with a melty, crunchy mess. Ask me how I know!

      

Both of these acrylic wraps were steamed to block.

      

If you only want to lightly block sweater pieces for example, I like to pin them out to match the length of seams and lightly steam them. This works with both natural and synthetics. You only want to release some of the curl and straighten out the stitches. Acrylics also respond well to a simple warm wash and a short spin in the dryer (not too hot) to look good.

      

These little sweaters were lightly steamed then washed.

My Vine Lace Wrap below was soaked and pinned.

      

      

After you have invested all of your time and lovely yarn to make a sweater, shawl or other beautiful item, spend a little extra time and block. You won’t be disappointed.

Have a wonderful crafty week and may all your yarn skeins pull smoothly from the centre!

Knitting

Easy Bunny Pattern, Free Of Course!

Iris Rose

For any one in the Calgary area who is interested in dropping by, I will be selling my wares at the Etsy Spring Fling in Okotoks on Saturday, May 5th.  We will be at the Elks Hall, #31, 58 Elizabeth St from 10AM to 5PM.  I would love to meet you!

I posted a photo of my newest bunny creation last week and, because it is just such an easy (and cute) make, I thought that I would share the pattern with you today. This little rabbit is made without too much in the way of complicated shaping making it an ideal quick gift for a baby, kid or even your BF. Does anybody say BF or BFF anymore? I am sadly out of touch!


In any case, dig through your stash for that fuzzy yarn that you couldn’t resist buying and now don’t know what to do with and get started. I estimate an hour or two of knitting and about the same for sewing up and you will have a sweet addition to the family!

I have included my pattern for crocheting toy eyes that allows you to securely sew and tie the eyes on so that they are baby proof. The large size only is in the bunny pattern but, just because, I have added the complete pattern at the end of the post. If you want a knitted pattern for eyes and or a crocheted pattern for a nose, you can download both with my Monsters pattern which is free on Ravelry.

Happy crafting this week!

Easy Bunny

Materials: Pipsqueak or similar fuzzy yarn held double, 90m plus about 12m for ear contrast. Dk or sport weight yarn, held double, 30m, polyester filling, safety eyes or a crocheted or felt circle for eyes.

Tools: 6mm knitting needles, 4mm double point knitting needles (2) or a short circular needle, large eyed tapestry needle for sewing.

Body: using your fuzzy yarn held double, cast on 40 stitches. I used a cable cast on. Knit 30 rows in stocking stitch.
Divide your stitches in half on two needles, wrong (purl) side out, or both ends of a circular needle for a three needle bind off. Use a crochet hook and bind off the two sets of 20 stitches together to close the end of the square. This will be the top of the head. Put this piece aside and make the other pieces.

Ears: You will make four pieces, two in the main colour and two in a contrasting colour for the inside of the ears.
Cast on 7 stitches and knit 14 rows of garter stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end on the next row (knit 2 together).
Knit 1 row.
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row (knit 2 together).
Knit 1 row.
Knit 2 together, knit 1. Cut a long tail for sewing. Take off these stitches with a tapestry needle and pull tight. Sew a main colour piece to a contrast piece along the long edges from the wide cast on base to the point and back down to the base. Set these completed ears aside.

Legs: Using your fuzzy yarn, cast on 7 stitches and knit 1 row.
Purl the next row, increasing 5 stitches across by knitting into the front and back of every second stitch.
Knit 5 rows of stocking stitch, starting with a right side or knit row.
Purl 2 together across. You will end up with 6 stitches.
Change to your dk yarn held doubled and, using a 4mm double point needle or circular needle, start a 6 stitch icord for the leg. Knit 15 rows, cut a long end for sewing the leg to the body, thread the stitches with a tapestry needle and pull tight. Make a second piece.

Arms: Using the dk yarn held double, work the hand as the foot and leg. You only need to work the icord for 10 rows. Make a second piece.

Nose: Using the dk yarn held double, cast on 3 stitches. Starting with a knit row, work 2 rows of stocking stitch.
Increase 1 stitch at each side on the next (knit) row. You can use any increase that you prefer.
Purl the next row.
Increase 1 stitch at each side on the next (knit) row. You can use any increase that you prefer.
Purl the next row.
Increase 1 stitch at each side on the next (knit) row. You can use any increase that you prefer.
Purl the next row.
Work 4 rows of stocking stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch at each side on the next (knit) row. You can use any decrease that you prefer.
Purl the next row.
Decrease 1 stitch at each side on the next (knit) row. You can use any decrease that you prefer.
Purl the next row.
Decrease 1 stitch at each side on the next (knit) row. You can use any decrease that you prefer.
Purl the next row.
Cut a long end and thread the remaining 3 stitches with a tapestry needle. Draw tight. Thread the yarn around the outside of the piece with a running stitch and gather up. Stuff the nose lightly and pull the thread tight to close. Fasten off but leave a tail remaining to sew the nose to the face.

Crocheted Eyes: 4mm hook needed.  With sport or dk yarn, ch 2. Make sure that you have at least a 10cm, 4” end from your starting ch as you will use this to secure the eye to the face.
R1: 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with slip stitch. For small eyes, fasten off and leave a 20cm or 8” tail. Thread this tail on your needle and, working in the back loops, gather the edge to form a ball. Do not cut this tail and do not trim the shorter end as you will need it to secure the eye to the face.
R2: (sc in sc on last round, 2 sc in next sc) twice, 2sc in last sc, join with a slip stitch.
R3: sc in each sc around and finish as in R1.
Fasten off and leave a 20cm or 8” tail. Thread this tail on your needle and, working in the back loops, gather the edge to form a ball. Do not cut this tail and do not trim the shorter end as you will need it to secure the eye to the face.

Making Up: Centre the nose on the body piece and sew it down securely. Place eyes to your liking and attach by the appropriate method to whichever eyes you use.
Sew the side of the body piece from top to bottom. Leave the bottom open for stuffing later.
Sew the feet closed, stuffing lightly before you sew the opening completely shut. Sew the legs to the bottom edge of the front of the body.
Sew the hands closed, again, stuffing lightly before finishing. Sew the arms to each side of the body about half way up the side.
Sew the ears to the top of the head.
Sew about half way along the bottom piece with a mattress stitch. Stuff to your ideal squishiness and sew the remaining half closed. Give your bunny a shake to fluff it up.

Crocheted Eyes: 4mm hook needed.  With sport or dk yarn, ch 2. Make sure that you have at least a 10cm, 4” end from your starting ch as you will use this to secure the eye to the face.
R1: 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with slip stitch. For small eyes, fasten off and leave a 20cm or 8” tail. Thread this tail on your needle and, working in the back loops, gather the edge to form a ball. Do not cut this tail and do not trim the shorter end as you will need it to secure the eye to the face.
R2: Medium eyes only: sc in each sc around, join with a slip stitch and finish as in R1.
R2: Large eyes only: (sc in sc on last round, 2 sc in next sc) twice, 2sc in last sc, join with a slip stitch.
R3: Large eyes only: sc in each sc around and finish as in R1.

Crochet, Knitting

New Pattern and Crocheted Edge for Last Week’s Freebie

Iris Rose

During the madness of my life (good madness not bad) this week, I have managed two things, well actually almost three. I have that crocheted edging pattern ready for you down below in the post that goes with the knitted cardigan pattern that I published last week. I have finished, but not written up, the cardigan knitted edging, can you say girly ruffles, and am very happy with it. The test knit is a size four and I am working on a two now before the pattern is complete.

      

Most importantly of all, I have, tada, finished the crocheted wrap that I have been teasing you with.  A Wrap for Spring is a paid pattern and is available for you to download on Ravelry in my store. If you act now (do I sound like an infomercial yet?) you can use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout to buy the pattern for half price until March 7th. That is a cool $2.50, such a deal!

I am still offering half off on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns as well. These are $2.50 with the same coupon code at checkout.


Now that I have given you my sales pitch, here is the promised edging for those of you who crochet as well as knit.

Crocheted Edge for Size 5/6 Cardigan:
This edging is crocheted all in one piece around all of the edges of the knit cardigan. Ideally you will only have the beginning and ending ends to weave in, my kind of project! As you will be switching from in the round to back and forth while you work, I have not broken the instructions down into rounds and rows. I will name the edges that are being crocheted on instead.

Tools: 5mm, US H/8 crochet hook, tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Materials: 100m or 110 yds worsted weight yarn in the same colour as knitted cardigan or a contrasting colour.
Abbreviations:         sc = single crochet           dc = double crochet
ch = chain                         sl st + slip stitch

With right side facing you, at the bottom left corner, join your yarn.

Bottom: Work 28 sc along the edge of the left front, 56 sc across the back, 28 sc across the right front. Work 1 sc in the same place as the last sc on the right front to make the corner.

Right Front: You will now make the buttonhole band. Work 36 sc evenly up the right front to the neck edge, ch 1 and turn. If you sc into the knots at the row ends rather than the bars, you should have 1 sc in each knot. This will also result in a firmer edge.

Working back down the right front into the sc edge that you just completed, 1sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, sc into each of the remaining 24 sc to the end, ch1 and turn. Here you have made three buttonholes.

Working back up to the neck edge, work 1sc into each sc and 1sc into each ch2 space of the prior row. Do not turn.
The front band is finished except for the scalloped edging which is done later.

Neck Edge: ch1 into the same place as your last sc of the front band, work 2sc evenly across the top of the band, work 14sc evenly across the right front neck, 18 sc across the back neck and 14sc across the left front neck, sc in corner to begin the left front band.

Left Front: Work 36sc evenly down the left front edge (right side facing), ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below, ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below. Do not turn. You will be at the bottom edge where you started and the left front band is complete except for the scallops which come later.

Bottom: 1sc in same place as last sc to make the corner. Work 2sc evenly across the bottom of the band, then 1sc in each sc across the bottom to the right front, ch3 and turn.
The ch3 that you ended the last row with will represent a dc and ch1. Skip the first sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc seven times, (dc, ch1) in the next sc. This will make an increase to ease the finished edging around the curve of the bottom. Skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve, make the increase by working in the next sc and continue on with skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve. Complete the row increasing at each outside curve (a total of four times), dc in last sc, ch1 and turn.  Working back across the bottom, sc in each dc and ch1 space. Do not turn.

You will now work the finished scalloped edge all around from the right front, across the neck, down the left front and across the bottom.

Right Front Scallops: skip the first sc on the right front, (5sc in next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next sc). Repeat the instructions in the brackets eight more times. Work 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc and sl st into the last sc.

Neck Edge: Work 1sc into each sc of the neck edge. Work 2sc evenly into the side of the left band at the end, sl st into the corner sc.

Left Front Scallops: Skip the first sc, 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc to the bottom. The last sl st should be in the bottom corner.

Bottom Scallops: Skip the first 2 sc in the row below, [(dc, ch1) four times, dc in the next sc, skip the next 2 sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next 2 sc], repeat the instructions in the square brackets across to the end. Work the last repeat without the last skip 2 sc, just sl st into the last stitch on the bottom. Fasten off.

Sleeve Edge: Join yarn at the underarm seam and work 35 sc evenly into the sleeve edge.
Following the instructions for the Bottom Scallops, make six scallops around the sleeve edge. Fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Weave in your ends and block. Sew buttons on the left band to match the buttonholes on the right band.

Knitting

A Free Sample Of My New Pattern

Iris Rose

New pattern in the works, two in fact! I have been busy, busy trying to get the new patterns ready for you and, guess what? I didn’t make it. I do so want to get these patterns done but life just keeps interfering. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

Anyway, you will have to wait for the crocheted one as the sample is just not complete and it is pretty hard to post a pattern with no photos. Who wants to gamble on a pattern looking great if you can’t see how it looks? I actually have a pet peeve about patterns being released with just a corner or shadowy artsy shot of the finished project. Why would I spend my time and money making something that is a mystery in the hope that it turns out like something I would wear?

But, I digress, a frequent failing of mine, and I was discussing my own patterns, not someone else’s. So, the crochet one will have to wait but I do have a sneak peek for you at the knit one. It is a super easy kid’s cardigan. I haven’t finished the edging, but it will be the same as the machine knit version that I featured earlier this month. I am working on a knit edging for those who don’t crochet as an alternative.

          Three needle bind off on the shoulders

I am still not ready to officially publish the pattern but here is one size (5/6) of the basic cardigan for you to try as a gift from me to you. I will post the edging pattern as another gift next week. The pattern will be available in multiple sizes as a paid pattern, including both knit and crochet edgings once all of the test knits are done.

Don’t forget about the 50OFF coupon code to save 50% on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns in my Ravelry store. At $4.99 regular price these are a bargain!
Enjoy the freebie!

Worsted Kid’s Cardigan, Short Sleeved, Size 5/6

Material: 325m (360 yds) worsted weight yarn, I used Loops and Threads, Impeccable.

Tools: 5.5mm needles, straight or circular, two stitch holders, another needle or crochet hook for 3needle bind off at shoulders if you choose to do that, tapestry needle for sewing and end weaving.

Instructions:
Back: Cast on 30 stitches. I used the cable cast on. Knit side will be the right side of the cardigan.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P1, M1, P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last stitch, M1, K1.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 20 stitches, 2 per row over ten rows. You should have 50 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 58. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 70 stitches on your needle.
Row 2: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches. 82 stitches on your needle.
Work another 28 rows of stocking stitch (30 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a purl row so you are ready to shape the back neck on the right side with a knit row.

Shape Back Neck:
Row 1: K33, cast off 16 stitches, K33. You will finish the left side then go back and repeat on the right.
Row 2: P31, P2T, turn your work.
Row 3: K2T, K30. Place these stitches on a stitch holder for 3needle bind off and cut your yarn leaving a 15cm or 12” length. If you wish to sew the shoulder seams instead, bind off all 31 stitches.
To complete the other shoulder, start at the neck edge from the purl side with Row 2.
Row 2: P2T, P31, turn your work.
Row 3: K30, K2T, place stitches on a holder as Row 3 above or bind off for sewn seams and put this piece aside.

Front: You will make two pieces, mirroring the instructions for the right side.
Left Front: Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to end.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 10 stitches, 1 per row over ten rows. You should have 25 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 29. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 41 stitches on your needle.
Work another 14 rows of stocking stitch (15 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a knit row so you are ready to shape the front neck purl row.

Shape Left Front Neck:
Row 1: (Purl or wrong side of work), bind of 6 stitches at the beginning of the row. P34.
Row 2: (Knit or right side of work), K all stitches.
Row 3: P2T, P33.
Row 4: K all stitches.
Row 5: P2T, P32.
Row 6: K all stitches.
Row 7: P2T, P 31.
Row 8: K all stitches.
Row 9: P2T, P30. Your stitch count is 31 stitches to match your back shoulder.

Work stocking stitch straight until you have worked a total of 32 rows from the sleeve increase. Join the front to the back left side with a 3needle bind off here. To do this pick up the stitches from the back off of the holder onto a needle and bind them off together with a third needle or crochet hook. There are YouTube videos that can show you how if you need that instruction.
If you are sewing your shoulder seams, bind off the shoulder and put this piece aside with the back.

Right Front: Complete as the left side. Make sure that you reverse the increases and decreases to make a mirror of the left side.

Sew up the side seams and your cardigan is done except for the crochet edging that includes the buttonholes.