Tag: knit

Knitting

Knitting and Pancakes, Love ‘Em Both!

Iris Rose

Here we are, almost into April! My goodness how the time passes by when you are not looking.  I have been busy this week.  Two new charity hats are in the bag and I have knit three babies and two mermaid dolls.  I have a big bag of unfinished dollies now so I better get to work on the sewing and stuffing.

I have been procrastinating about publishing my little cardigan pattern. I finally finished the test knits and have them blocked so will push myself to get the final draft of the pattern out next week.
In the meantime, I have been playing with my knitting machine (still) and spent my spare time this week embellishing a little pullover with crocheted appliques. I was hoping to finish it yesterday but, life, you know how that goes. Here is the almost finished sweater. I am quite pleased with how it turned out. I used to make a baby version of this but haven’t done one for a while. I never write this type of finishing down, I should but I do love the creative process of just winging it!


Do you have plans for this long weekend? We are having the family over for a visit and dinner on Saturday. I can’t wait! I always love to see my kids and grandkids. I always like to make a special breakfast for DH and myself on Easter Sunday. I think that this year I will make pancakes with my homemade sausage and cook a couple of eggs as well. If you missed my pancake recipe that was featured in a prior post and would like to make it this weekend, here it is again. Enjoy and have a great weekend!

Iris Rose’s delicious pancakes:
These ingredients will make two very large (plate sized) pancakes.
3 Tbsps of butter
Melt the butter in a 9” or 22cm frying pan over medium heat. I use two pans to cook both pancakes at once and melt butter in each. You will be using the excess butter in the pancake batter but leave some to brown with the batter.
1 cup of flour
1 & 1/2 tsp. baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
Combine these ingredients in a bowl big enough to hold the wet ingredients too.
1 egg
2 Tbsps honey or maple syrup
1 cup of buttermilk (Don’t have any buttermilk? Just add a tsp of vinegar to plain milk or mix in a good dollop (2Tbsps) of sour cream or yogurt to plain milk to make a cup.)
I mix these ingredients using a 2 cup measuring cup in the following order: beat the egg, beat in the honey or syrup, mix in the buttermilk.
Pour most of the melted butter into the wet ingredients and stir. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in the wet. Mix with a few quick stirs until all of the dry stuff is wet. Don’t worry about lumps and don’t overmix.
Pour half of the batter into each pan. Here is where you make them fun. Top the batter with sliced banana, sliced peaches, blueberries, sliced apples, you get the picture.
If you want savory pancakes, top the batter in the pan with cooked diced ham, cooked sliced mushrooms, grated cheese, shrimps and so on.
When the pancake has some bubbles that pop and is starting to look dry around the edges, be brave and flip the whole thing over. Your added goodies should have sunk into the batter and will cook while the second side is cooking. I wait a couple of minutes and turn off the stove at this point as there should be enough heat in the pan and the cooked side to finish the pancake without burning your yummy addons.
In a couple of more minutes, flip the pancake onto a plate and admire the pretty pattern made by the additions. Serve with syrup, preferably maple, and enjoy!

Knitting

Procrastinating and Finally Getting Back To It

Iris Rose

I am so glad that Spring is finally here! I love the light later in the evening; it is still light at 8:45PM this week, yahoo! I guess that fills the exclamation mark quota for this post, so I will have to calm down and write about crafting.

I have been messing around with my new to me knitting machine (having a ton of fun) and have been neglecting my hand crafts. I have also procrastinated about pattern writing. I have two in the works but just keep gliding past them for the new machine. It is just so hard to resist!


I sorted out my stock after my last sale and found that, even though I have a lot of stuffed toys still, I am woefully short of knitted dollies. I am always surprised by the popularity of this little babies, I don’t know why. So, on the couch I have been perched this week and, so far, I have five babies and two little mermaids knit up and ready to assemble. I don’t have photos of these ones but have photos of some long sold to show you.

  

The mermaid is based on a pattern by Amy Gaines called Mermaid and the babies are based on a Jean Greenhowes’ pattern that is free on her website. I can’t ever knit a pattern as written, (why is that?) so both of these sweet dollies are modified to suit my purpose. Wendy Phillips’ patterns are in my Ravelry library and calling out to me as well. Maybe I will discipline myself enough to get to those next week.


Toy making is a really fun way to use up your odds and ends and there is always, always someone willing to adopt your work.

Knitting

YO At the Beginning of the Row?

Iris Rose

I haven’t finished anything new this week. I have been working as much as I can on the little cardigan that I featured over the last couple of weeks and am on the home stretch with size two. So, instead of a new design, I thought that I would share with you a pretty technique for finishing a garter edge.

I have a pattern for a shoulder scarf, the Delphinium Shoulder Scarf, that I wrote some time ago that features a really pretty finished edge to the garter lace. It is not the same as the braided edge on my Another Cake Shawl but still very nice and neat looking. This technique can be used on any vertical garter edge and would look lovely on a cardigan front.  The photo tutorial below is included in the pattern.

       

How to make a yarn over at the beginning of a row:

Start with your yarn over instead of under your right hand needle.


Slide your right hand needle through the first two stitches on your left hand needle for knit two together.


Wrap your yarn over top of the right hand needle and around to make a stitch.


Pull the yarn through to complete your knit two together. You can see that the yarn that came over the right hand needle makes a stitch.


Here you can more clearly see that the yarn over, knit two together at the beginning of a row results in two stitches on the right hand needle when you are finished.


Here you see the final result; a pretty loop edge to your garter rows.

Crochet, Knitting

New Pattern and Crocheted Edge for Last Week’s Freebie

Iris Rose

During the madness of my life (good madness not bad) this week, I have managed two things, well actually almost three. I have that crocheted edging pattern ready for you down below in the post that goes with the knitted cardigan pattern that I published last week. I have finished, but not written up, the cardigan knitted edging, can you say girly ruffles, and am very happy with it. The test knit is a size four and I am working on a two now before the pattern is complete.

      

Most importantly of all, I have, tada, finished the crocheted wrap that I have been teasing you with.  A Wrap for Spring is a paid pattern and is available for you to download on Ravelry in my store. If you act now (do I sound like an infomercial yet?) you can use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout to buy the pattern for half price until March 7th. That is a cool $2.50, such a deal!

I am still offering half off on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns as well. These are $2.50 with the same coupon code at checkout.


Now that I have given you my sales pitch, here is the promised edging for those of you who crochet as well as knit.

Crocheted Edge for Size 5/6 Cardigan:
This edging is crocheted all in one piece around all of the edges of the knit cardigan. Ideally you will only have the beginning and ending ends to weave in, my kind of project! As you will be switching from in the round to back and forth while you work, I have not broken the instructions down into rounds and rows. I will name the edges that are being crocheted on instead.

Tools: 5mm, US H/8 crochet hook, tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Materials: 100m or 110 yds worsted weight yarn in the same colour as knitted cardigan or a contrasting colour.
Abbreviations:         sc = single crochet           dc = double crochet
ch = chain                         sl st + slip stitch

With right side facing you, at the bottom left corner, join your yarn.

Bottom: Work 28 sc along the edge of the left front, 56 sc across the back, 28 sc across the right front. Work 1 sc in the same place as the last sc on the right front to make the corner.

Right Front: You will now make the buttonhole band. Work 36 sc evenly up the right front to the neck edge, ch 1 and turn. If you sc into the knots at the row ends rather than the bars, you should have 1 sc in each knot. This will also result in a firmer edge.

Working back down the right front into the sc edge that you just completed, 1sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, sc into each of the remaining 24 sc to the end, ch1 and turn. Here you have made three buttonholes.

Working back up to the neck edge, work 1sc into each sc and 1sc into each ch2 space of the prior row. Do not turn.
The front band is finished except for the scalloped edging which is done later.

Neck Edge: ch1 into the same place as your last sc of the front band, work 2sc evenly across the top of the band, work 14sc evenly across the right front neck, 18 sc across the back neck and 14sc across the left front neck, sc in corner to begin the left front band.

Left Front: Work 36sc evenly down the left front edge (right side facing), ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below, ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below. Do not turn. You will be at the bottom edge where you started and the left front band is complete except for the scallops which come later.

Bottom: 1sc in same place as last sc to make the corner. Work 2sc evenly across the bottom of the band, then 1sc in each sc across the bottom to the right front, ch3 and turn.
The ch3 that you ended the last row with will represent a dc and ch1. Skip the first sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc seven times, (dc, ch1) in the next sc. This will make an increase to ease the finished edging around the curve of the bottom. Skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve, make the increase by working in the next sc and continue on with skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve. Complete the row increasing at each outside curve (a total of four times), dc in last sc, ch1 and turn.  Working back across the bottom, sc in each dc and ch1 space. Do not turn.

You will now work the finished scalloped edge all around from the right front, across the neck, down the left front and across the bottom.

Right Front Scallops: skip the first sc on the right front, (5sc in next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next sc). Repeat the instructions in the brackets eight more times. Work 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc and sl st into the last sc.

Neck Edge: Work 1sc into each sc of the neck edge. Work 2sc evenly into the side of the left band at the end, sl st into the corner sc.

Left Front Scallops: Skip the first sc, 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc to the bottom. The last sl st should be in the bottom corner.

Bottom Scallops: Skip the first 2 sc in the row below, [(dc, ch1) four times, dc in the next sc, skip the next 2 sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next 2 sc], repeat the instructions in the square brackets across to the end. Work the last repeat without the last skip 2 sc, just sl st into the last stitch on the bottom. Fasten off.

Sleeve Edge: Join yarn at the underarm seam and work 35 sc evenly into the sleeve edge.
Following the instructions for the Bottom Scallops, make six scallops around the sleeve edge. Fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Weave in your ends and block. Sew buttons on the left band to match the buttonholes on the right band.

Knitting

A Free Sample Of My New Pattern

Iris Rose

New pattern in the works, two in fact! I have been busy, busy trying to get the new patterns ready for you and, guess what? I didn’t make it. I do so want to get these patterns done but life just keeps interfering. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

Anyway, you will have to wait for the crocheted one as the sample is just not complete and it is pretty hard to post a pattern with no photos. Who wants to gamble on a pattern looking great if you can’t see how it looks? I actually have a pet peeve about patterns being released with just a corner or shadowy artsy shot of the finished project. Why would I spend my time and money making something that is a mystery in the hope that it turns out like something I would wear?

But, I digress, a frequent failing of mine, and I was discussing my own patterns, not someone else’s. So, the crochet one will have to wait but I do have a sneak peek for you at the knit one. It is a super easy kid’s cardigan. I haven’t finished the edging, but it will be the same as the machine knit version that I featured earlier this month. I am working on a knit edging for those who don’t crochet as an alternative.

          Three needle bind off on the shoulders

I am still not ready to officially publish the pattern but here is one size (5/6) of the basic cardigan for you to try as a gift from me to you. I will post the edging pattern as another gift next week. The pattern will be available in multiple sizes as a paid pattern, including both knit and crochet edgings once all of the test knits are done.

Don’t forget about the 50OFF coupon code to save 50% on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns in my Ravelry store. At $4.99 regular price these are a bargain!
Enjoy the freebie!

Worsted Kid’s Cardigan, Short Sleeved, Size 5/6

Material: 325m (360 yds) worsted weight yarn, I used Loops and Threads, Impeccable.

Tools: 5.5mm needles, straight or circular, two stitch holders, another needle or crochet hook for 3needle bind off at shoulders if you choose to do that, tapestry needle for sewing and end weaving.

Instructions:
Back: Cast on 30 stitches. I used the cable cast on. Knit side will be the right side of the cardigan.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P1, M1, P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last stitch, M1, K1.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 20 stitches, 2 per row over ten rows. You should have 50 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 58. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 70 stitches on your needle.
Row 2: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches. 82 stitches on your needle.
Work another 28 rows of stocking stitch (30 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a purl row so you are ready to shape the back neck on the right side with a knit row.

Shape Back Neck:
Row 1: K33, cast off 16 stitches, K33. You will finish the left side then go back and repeat on the right.
Row 2: P31, P2T, turn your work.
Row 3: K2T, K30. Place these stitches on a stitch holder for 3needle bind off and cut your yarn leaving a 15cm or 12” length. If you wish to sew the shoulder seams instead, bind off all 31 stitches.
To complete the other shoulder, start at the neck edge from the purl side with Row 2.
Row 2: P2T, P31, turn your work.
Row 3: K30, K2T, place stitches on a holder as Row 3 above or bind off for sewn seams and put this piece aside.

Front: You will make two pieces, mirroring the instructions for the right side.
Left Front: Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to end.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 10 stitches, 1 per row over ten rows. You should have 25 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 29. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 41 stitches on your needle.
Work another 14 rows of stocking stitch (15 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a knit row so you are ready to shape the front neck purl row.

Shape Left Front Neck:
Row 1: (Purl or wrong side of work), bind of 6 stitches at the beginning of the row. P34.
Row 2: (Knit or right side of work), K all stitches.
Row 3: P2T, P33.
Row 4: K all stitches.
Row 5: P2T, P32.
Row 6: K all stitches.
Row 7: P2T, P 31.
Row 8: K all stitches.
Row 9: P2T, P30. Your stitch count is 31 stitches to match your back shoulder.

Work stocking stitch straight until you have worked a total of 32 rows from the sleeve increase. Join the front to the back left side with a 3needle bind off here. To do this pick up the stitches from the back off of the holder onto a needle and bind them off together with a third needle or crochet hook. There are YouTube videos that can show you how if you need that instruction.
If you are sewing your shoulder seams, bind off the shoulder and put this piece aside with the back.

Right Front: Complete as the left side. Make sure that you reverse the increases and decreases to make a mirror of the left side.

Sew up the side seams and your cardigan is done except for the crochet edging that includes the buttonholes.