Tag: knit

Knitting

You Will Need To Sew A Skirt for That Pretty Knit Top

Iris Rose

 

In the July 26th post I featured a pattern for knitting the top or bodice of a dress for a little girl.  The pattern came about because I got sucked into the Pinterest black hole and, although I loved the little dress on the website, could not find a link to a pattern.  I decided if I wanted to make this dress, I would have to write my own. 

The top is sized from 2 to 8 and, when paired with a sewn skirt, is really cute!  I have made a couple of these little dresses now in different sizes and am very happy with the results.

The skirt is simple to sew and should be made in a fabric that is compatible in care to the yarn used for the bodice.  I used a new ladies skirt (cut off) for one and yardage for the others.  I am posting photos of both so that you can see there is little difference in the finished product.

You will need 115cm (45”) to 150cm (54”) fabric in the length that you want the skirt portion of the dress to be plus 2cm (3/4”) for the top gathering and 4cm (1.5”) for the hem allowance.  115cm fabric will be fine for the smaller sizes, 2 and 4, but you will want the wider fabric for size 6 and 8 so that the skirt is nice and full.  You can join pieces to make the width.  I would recommend that you use two pieces the same width and use the joins as side seams instead of the back seam.  You will also need matching thread and a sewing machine of course.

Cut the fabric to the length that you want and overcast finish all of the cut edges.  Sew up the side to make a seam that will be at the centre back.  If you have used two pieces of fabric to make a wider skirt, join both sides to make two side seams.

Sew a long stitch gathering thread 1cm (3/8”) in from the top edge.  Leave a long end to pull for gathers.  Sew a second long stitch line 2cm (3/4”) from the top edge again leaving a long end to pull.  Tie of the threads at the start and, using either the top or bobbin threads only, pulling both end threads at once, gather the top of the skirt to fit to your finished and blocked bodice.  When you have the right size, tie off and trim your thread ends.

Sew a regular line of stitches between the two gathering lines to secure the gathers.  Sew a second line at the top edge where your overcasting is.  Pull out the gathering threads.

Pin the skirt inside the bodice at the line where your crochet trim starts, centering the seam at the centre back if one or at each side if two.  Carefully back stitch the skirt into place sewing through the top of the skirt and through the inside of the first row of single crochet so that the stitching does not show on the outside of the bodice.  I used two plies of the yarn that I knit the bodice with so that any stray stitches wouldn’t show.

Pin up and blind stitch the hem and, with a final press, your pretty little dress is ready to wear!

Knitting

End of Summer, Bulky Yarns!

Iris Rose

Where I live it is the end of summer, not my favourite time of year.  Lots of folks love this time of the fall with the cooler days and cooler nights, colourful leaves changing from green to gold before they fall.  It can be bright and sunny and tease you into thinking that the warm days are not over and that winter is far, far away.  Ha!

It is not that I really dislike winter but more that I really hate the long dark of winter days.  Once we reach the middle of January and the daylight starts to increase, I am all good even though this is the coldest part of the winter and often the snowiest.  Give me a snowfall over rain any day but just not the darkness of November and December.

Now that I have had a little rant, I am looking forward to all of the lovely bulky yarns that show up this time of the year and hope to have a few patterns ready over the next month or so that take advantage of these quickly knit yarns.  Most of them don’t need anything complicated as far as stitching goes to become stars, in fact, the more simple the pattern, the better to showcase the colours and textures of these lovelies.

I have a few patterns that I have written to make gift knitting, and yes it is time to start, an easy and speedy process.  Here is the first, a simple cowl that I hope that you enjoy!

Cowl or Infinity Scarf:

Tools: 12 to 15mm single point pair of needles or a circular needle of the same diameter.  The needle size is not crucial but will affect the depth of the garter stitch.  Use what you have; if the largest that you have is 6mm, work the cowl in dropped garter stitch with one yarn over wrap to make the stitch size close to what a larger needle produces.  There are great videos online that show how to make this easy stitch.

Materials: 90m chunky yarn or use two ends of worsted weight in the same or contrasting colours to make your own chunky weight.  I have mixed a textured and smooth yarn in the same colour or close to make a fabulous look.  Use up those this is too beautiful to resist sequin, loopy or what have you yarns that are hiding in your stash. Consult your great imagination and have fun!

Cowl Instructions: Cast on 22 stitches with 12mm needles or 18 stitches with 15mm needles.

Knitting all rows, work 36 ridges (72 rows) with the 12mm needles and 30 ridges (60 rows) with the 15mm needles.

Join with cast off by picking up a loop at each live stitch (as you work the last row) from your cast on and three needle bind off with your live stitches.  If you don’t want to do this, cast off and neatly sew the two ends together to form a tube.  Lightly Block with steam to stretch your new lovely cowl out slightly and to soften the yarn a little.

If you want a longer cowl, and don’t forget you will need more yarn, keep knitting until you get to the length that you like when wrapped around your neck then finish here.

Knitting

Seahawks Socks

Iris Rose

I know that a lot of you regularly knit socks.  I have knit a few pairs and never enjoyed the process until I am almost finished the second one, then I love sock knitting!

I found a self striping yarn in the team colours of the Seattle Seahawks and just had to knit a pair for my DH, the ultimate Hawks fan.  The yarn is Cascade Heritage Prints in the colourway, Seattle.  I bought three skeins as I wanted to make sure that I had enough for size XXL socks which was a mistake (100g skeins, what was I thinking) as I used about a skein and a quarter but I am sure to make good use of the leftover skein and a bit.

To make the larger than standard socks, I used an old Patons’ pattern book of socks that I found in a tub of craft supplies that I inherited from my Mum.  This book actually has a couple of options for sizing men’s socks which was very helpful.  It was lovely and nostalgic reading notes that my mother wrote out to keep track of the pattern; I used the same pattern that she had used.

I started these puppies in mid-May and finally grafted the toes at the end of August, can you say procrastination?  DH was very happy with the finished socks that fit perfectly and will be well used in the coming football season!

 

It was so much fun to see how happy he was with the socks that I may just purpose the left over yarn into another pair!

#GoHawks!

Knitting

Whew, A Neckwarmer When It Is Too Hot To Think About Knitting!

Iris Rose

I don’t know what it is like where you live but here in Alberta where we are normally starting to think about fall, it is hot, hot, hot!  We have had a record heat wave this summer with little or no rain and none in sight.  I am not complaining, only commenting on the unseasonal weather.  Sorry, that’s what Canadians do isn’t it, comment on the weather in every conversation?

Even though it is hot, I always find time to knit or crochet and I have made a neck warmer or cowl to match the cable hat of two weeks ago.  I like the look of a matching set but mostly I wanted to use up the last bit of the self striping yarn that I had.  I still have a bit left so maybe some mittens will be forthcoming or maybe not.  Maybe I will liberate myself and throw that last bit of perfectly good yarn away and move on to something new!

I am still finishing the UFO pile with only, I think, four or five left.  My problem is that I keep starting new things so that resolution to finish it all never gets fulfilled.  I am sticking to working only from my stash though so one resolution is still working for me.  I am going on a yarn shop day in a couple of weeks so that will be the ultimate test of my will power.  I hear that Vegas is taking bets at 10 to 1.

Anyhow, I will keep plugging along and here, without further rambling is my neck warmer aka cowl pattern.  It is close to the neck to keep you warm and buttons to keep your hair tidy.

Cable Neck Warmer

 

This neck warmer is designed to match my Cable Hat and use up the remainder of the skein of self striping chunky yarn that I used for the hat band.  It can easily be made larger by increasing the number of cable sections and/or knitting more rows.  It can also be knit in the round if you prefer.  I made mine to button as I hate to pull anything over my head except a hat when I am on the way out the door.  I also like my cowls or neck warmers to be close to my neck but easily removed when indoors, think overheated shopping malls.  I also used a larger needle than I used on the matching hat to give a little more drape to the fabric.

Materials: Chunky yarn, 40m or 44 yds for the ribbing and 80m or 88 yds for the body.  I used Sirdar Crofter Chunky self striping for the band and Bernat Softee Chunky for the crown because that is what I had in my stash.

Tools: 6.5mm or US 10.5 needles, stitch markers to separate cable sections if you need to.

Abbreviations:          

K = knit

P = purl

C4F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next two stitches on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

K2tog = knit two stitches together

YO = yarn over

 

Ribbed Edge: Using the self striping yarn, cast on 80 stitches, don’t join if you are using a circular needle.

Row 1: (K2, P1) to last two stitches, K2.

Row 2: (P2, K1) to last two stitches, P2.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in

 

Cable Section: You will start on the wrong side of your piece.  Join contrast yarn.

Row 1: P1, (K1, P4, K1, P6), repeat six times, K1, P4, K1, P1.

Row 2: K1, (P1, C4F, P1, K6), repeat six times, P1, C4F, P1, K1.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4: K1, (P1, K4, P1, K6), repeat six times, P1, K4, P1, K1.

Rows 5 to 20: Repeat Rows 1 to 4 four more times.

Row 21: Repeat Row 1.

Cut yarn leaving a tail to weave in.

 

Ribbed Edge: You will start on the right side of your piece.  Join in self striping yarn.

Row 1: (K2, P1) to last two stitches, K2.

Row 2: (P2, K1) to last two stitches, P2.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Cast off loosely knitwise on the wrong side.

Ribbed Ends:

Button hole side:

With self striping yarn, pick up and knit 20 stitches along one end with the right side facing you.

Row 1: wrong side, (P2, K1) six times, P2.

Row 2: K2, P1, (YO, K2tog, P1, K2, P1) twice, YO, K2tog, P1, K2.  Three buttonholes made.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4: (K2, P1), six times, K2.

Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Cast off purlwise.

Plain Side:

With self striping yarn, pick up and knit 20 stitches along one end with the right side facing you.

Row 1: wrong side, (P2, K1) six times, P2.

Row 2: (K2, P1), six times, K2.

Repeat Rows 1 and two once more and then Row 1 again.  Cast off purlwise.

Block your neck warmer and weave in the ends.  Sew buttons on the plain side to line up with the buttonholes on the other side.  I sewed a couple of buttons on the hat band to match the neck warmer making a set.

 

Knitting

New Hat With Cables!

Iris Rose

             

I went stash diving last week and came up with two pretty yarns that look really good together.  I found a single skein of Sirdar’s Crofter Chunky (clearance basket!) and one of those unknown fibre mill end bags that looks just like Bernat Softee Chunky (sale at Michael’s, I am the Queen!).   As a result, today I have a new hat pattern for you.  I know, I know, winter is a long way off but now is a good time to start your gift knitting and this hat is part of a set.  Plus, the matching cowl will be coming at you in the next couple of weeks and small projects are great for summer knitting.

The hat is knit in chunky yarn and is a great way to introduce yourself to cables.  It is a fairly easy knit but you will have to pay attention to your row count.  There is no chart for the cables but the pattern is written out with clear explanations and I am always available for questions here or on Ravelry.  I really need to get a better model don’t I!

Dig through your stash and find that perfect yarn for that special knitworthy someone or maybe use this free only here on my blog pattern for charity knitting.  Either way, just have fun with it.

At the end of this post I am featuring a photo of the start of a new crochet pattern that I am working on.  I thought it was time to switch up my craft choice for this project and get my crojo working again!

 

Cable Hat

This is an easy to knit hat, standard size, that lets you branch out a little from plain stocking stitch.  It is knit in the round so no seams!  To finish, all you need to do is close the top and weave in a couple of ends.  If you need to adjust the size, use a larger needle up to 6.5mm or US 10.5.

 

Materials: Chunky yarn, 40m or 44 yds for the ribbing and 90m or 99yds for the crown.  I used Sirdar Crofter Chunky for the band and Bernat Softee Chunky for the crown because that is what I had in my stash.

Tools: 5.5mm or US 9 circular needle (40cm, 16”, or smaller), 5.5mm or US 9, DPN’s, stitch markers.

Abbreviations:          

K = knit                       P = purl

K2tog = right slanting decrease, knit two stiches together

SSK = left slanting decrease, slip two stitches knitwise and place them back on the left needle. Knit them together.  An easier left slanting decrease is to simply knit two together through the back loop.

S2K1PSSO = centred double decrease, slip two stitches, knit the next then pass the two slipped stitches over the knit one.

C2F = twist two knit stitches: knit into the back of the second stitch on the left needle, leaving it on the needle, knit in the front of the first stitch on the left needle and move them both to the right needle together.

C3F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next stitch on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

C4F = slip the next two stitches to a cable needle, hold it in front of your work and knit the next two stitches on the left needle. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle.

 

Band: With the yarn that you are going to use for the band, cast on 78 stitches and join to knit in the round.  Place a marker at the join to mark the beginning of the round and slip it at the end on each round.

Rnds 1 and 2: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnd 3: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnds 4 to 6: (K2, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnd 7: (C2F, P1) twenty-six times around.

Rnds 8 to 11: Repeat Rnds 4 to 7.

Rnds 12 and 13: Repeat Rnds 1 and 2.

Change yarn here if you are using two colours or continue with the same yarn for a single colour.

Crown: The crown is divided into six sections of thirteen stitches.  If you are unsure of the pattern, use a stitch marker between each section.  Make sure that you use a different colour or have some other way to note where you rounds end or your cables will be messed up.

Rnds 1 and 2: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnd 3: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnds 4 to 7: (K4, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Rnd 8: (C4F, P1, K7, P1) six times around.

Repeat Rnds 4 to 8 three more times.

Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 one time.

The next round will start the decrease for the crown.  You will be decreasing on every third round so make sure that you keep track of the cable rows separately from the decrease rounds.  You will need to switch to DPN’s, or two cable needles or magic loop when the stitch count drops.

Rnd 26: (K4, P1, SSK, K3, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 27: (K4, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 28: (C4F, P1, K5, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 29: (K4, P1, SSK, K1, K2tog, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnds 30 and 31: (K4, P1, K3, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 32: (K4, P1, S2K1PSSO, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 33: (C4F, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 34: (K4, P1, K1, P1) repeat six times around.

Rnd 35: (K4, S2K1PSSO) repeat six times around.

Rnds 36 and 37: K all stitches.

Rnd 39: (C3F, K2tog) repeat six times around.

Rnd 40: K all stitches.

Rnd 41: (K2, K2tog) repeat six times around.

Cut a long tail and take off the remaining eighteen stitches around with a tapestry needle.  Pull tight and thread the tail to the inside.  Secure it by weaving through the stitches in the last round and trim.

Weave in any other ends and trim.  Block your hat lightly if you choose but do not block the ribbing band.

And here is a sneak peek at my latest effort with the hook.  I have been visualizing this piece for some time and thought I better get off my duff and work it out!