Tag: knit

Knitting

The Second Part is Coming Soon!

Iris Rose

I wanted to have part two of my Northern Rose Shawl pattern up for you today but I am about a day away from finishing the test of this section. I have revised my original knit to expand the lace pattern out to the edges where the stitch increases happen. I like the result and I hope that you will too. I should have it up this weekend for you. Stay tuned to facebook or subscribe to my blog to have instant access to new posts.


In the meantime, I have been getting another pattern ready for you and will be posting it to Ravelry as a paid pattern. You can get it here first (and free) so stay tuned for that too!

Summer is in full swing and although it is hot, hot, hot, we still need to knit and crochet to keep our hands busy and our minds engaged and soothed. I like to work on small projects this time of year. I am currently knitting a pair of socks for DH that are made with sock yarn dyed in the colours of the Seattle Seahawks, his favourite NFL team. I have one finished but have put the second on hold while I finish the shawl pattern.


I have the urge to start some hats and have the pattern in mind that I want to create. I will use bulky yarn to make a quick and, hopefully, really cute head cover for the winter that we all know is coming.


And, just to show you that I really have startitis, I am working on a top down kid’s sweater. I am really pushing it here but if there is no pressure I don’t seem to get anything done!
Watch for my post this weekend to get the next episode of the shawl and stay cool!

Knitting

Northern Rose Shawl Part One

Iris Rose

 

I have been working on this shawl pattern for a while now.  It is a hybrid of Shetland and Faroese styling with only garter lace and plain garter stitch parts (no purls here!). 

It has been one of those projects where if anything is going to go wrong it will.  If you look closely at the photo you will see what I mean.  Even the yarn was spun with more mohair in some parts than in others which was fine in the natural but not so fine in the rose.  Alternating skeins seemed to make no difference.

I had some random skeins of a mohair, silk and wool blend that the ebay monster made me buy and did not have anything already developed that I thought the yarn wanted to be.  I had three colours, 100g of natural, 100g of deep rose, and 200g of dark green.  I ended up with just 50g of the green which I have no idea what I will do with but, you know, never throw away good yarn.  That explains the thirty year old skeins in my stash!

Anyway, back to the shawl, I have written the pattern and am offering it free in parts with written directions only over the next three blog posts.  I will publish it on Ravelry but as a paid pattern with charts as well as written directions.  This first part will give you a sampler of what the whole pattern will be like.  This section could be continued to make the whole shawl if you want a simpler wrap up and it would be a very cozy piece.

 

Materials: Worsted weight yarn: 125m (140 yds) of cream, 170m (185 yds) of rose, 250m (280yds) of green.

Tools: 5.5mm (US 9) 60cm (24”) circular knitting needle, 4 or more stitch markers, tapestry needle to weave in ends.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows in garter stitch, blocked.  Gauge is not crucial but you should try to achieve a close number to ensure that your shawl is the same size.

Cast on 23 stitches using a cable cast on.  All stitches in this pattern are knit; no purls here!  On every wrong side row throughout the shawl, knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Initial Row: K1, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat to to last two stitches, K2tog.

First Wrong Side Row: Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Garter Stitch Section and Centre Lace Panel:

Row 1: K1, place marker YO, K2, YO, place marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, place marker, YO, K2, YO, place marker, K1.

Row 3: K1,slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 16: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Repeat Rows 1 to 16 three more times.  Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You should have 64 garter stitches between the first and second markers and the same on the other side of the lace panel.

Knitting

Beat the Heat

Iris Rose

Okay, I know that it is hot but there is still time in the day to knit or crochet or both.  This time of the year, in the Northern Hemisphere at least, it is nice to have a list of simple small projects to work on.  I tend to make toys, hats and cowls or other small items this time of the year to keep the project from becoming a blanket on my lap.  Kids or baby sweaters are also good summer needle arts projects.

Are you like me and in a bit of a panic to have enough stock for craft sales this fall?  I have a few free and paid patterns on Ravelry here that are great for sale stock.  They are quick to make, don’t take a lot of yarn and sell really well.  They are also great for charity knitting which is another great way to spend your summer crafting time.  These items are always welcome, especially the toys, in the winter months.

I have being looking through project pages and other sites to see what other projects will fit into the it’s too hot to knit a blanket weather and still keep that I have to craft urge satisfied.  I found a surprising number of small things to work on.

Socks, socks and more socks seem to be the most popular item to make with hats, mittens, and cowls the next.  I did come across crocheted jewelry, an art that I always forget about.  I was given a crocheted pearl ring and choker set by my DH when we first started dating.  I knew right then that he was a keeper and still have that pretty jewelry.

There a number of patterns for crocheted bracelets that have beads or not and look really lovely.  I have a couple of them on the project list to try while I am sitting on the patio.  They will make pretty gifts for the granddaughters.

Crocheted or knitted squares are another great small project.  They can be all the same or a variety of stitch patterns.  I usually opt for a variety as I am easily bored with the style of the same pattern repeated.  I made this little lap blanket from a Bernat booklet some years ago to learn cable knitting.  I fell in love with the style of since progressed to Aran sweaters.

Learning a new style or skill is another great reason to work on small projects during the hot months.  I learned to make hairpin lace last May and still have the project sitting in a bag.  It will be placed front and centre in my UFO basket as it is light and airy enough to work on without discomfort.

Have a look through your patterns, pick a cool yarn and get busy!  There really is a way to beat the heat and keep on crafting.

Spoiler Alert: New Shawl Pattern Next Week!

Knitting

Designer Rant

Iris Rose

I have a need to rant this week.  I read from time to time about how some crafters will use a pattern and sell the finished goods.  For some reason, there are those who are outraged by the idea that the crafter is making money from someone else’s design.

I am not talking about a company mass producing and selling hundreds or thousands of the end product but a craftsperson maybe selling a couple or more at a craft sale or on the internet.  I am also not talking about reproducing the pattern itself (copyright) or selling the item as self designed; give credit where it is due.

I guess that I take exception to the outrage mostly because there are no truly new designs in the world.  There are only old ideas represented.  There are finite stitch combinations and colour choices.  There are only so many ways to calculate the number of stitches needed for any particular size on any particular needle or hook and there are so very many patterns that are exactly the same.

An example of the fact that two people do think alike is the cocoon shrug.  There are several patterns on the web, both paid and free, that, if you looked at them without seeing the attendant “designed by” would assume that the same person had written them all.  How can each of these be unique to the particular designer?  How could you ever say that this or that person had stolen your intellectual property and is now selling the finished product that they, not the designer, created, for a profit.  How could you ever claim that it was even your pattern that they used and not someone else’s or even their own?

Another example would be Aran or Irish knit sweaters.  The traditional cable patterns are repeated on many different knits that look similar if not the same.  Does this mean that all of the pattern writers that produce Aran knits are guilty of taking credit for a design that is not theirs?

I design and write patterns.  I know that there are many hours spent creating, writing, rewriting, editing and rewriting again only to proof read, test and rewrite once more.  You publish the pattern and, thank goodness, read and respond to the questions and suggestions, most of them really good, that follow.  You design to share your inspiration and vision with the world, not so that you can take possession of it and hold it close.  Being a designer and pattern writer means having an open mind and a thick skin.  It is just like in kindergarten, not everyone will play the game the same way that you think they should.

I rarely knit or crochet a pattern as written; I always change some part of it to make it more appealing or easier to work for me.  Does that mean that the design is now mine?  If I wrote the pattern with my revisions is it a new pattern?

I don’t write on my patterns that the finished items cannot be sold.  I am flattered that a crafts person thinks that my design is worthy of making and selling.  On those that I know from my own experience are good craft sale items, I will comment that this pattern is quick and easy and makes for great craft sale inventory.  How would you police this anyway?  The world is too big and time is too short to obsess over the uncontrollable.

I am not in any way condoning copyright infringement.  I think that credit should be given to those original thinkers among us.  I just want talented crafters to be given their due on their handiwork making items from our patterns and to turn away the protest and guilt ladled out to them for being industrious.

Knitting

Pink Ice Cream For Summer

Iris Rose

It is almost summer, yay!  I love this time of the year the best.  It is a time of promise, watching new plants grow, dreaming of the fruit and berries to come.  Do you think I like food?  It is also a time to look forward to swimming at the lake, walking in the park and just generally enjoying the outdoors.

This brings me, of course, to outdoor crafting.  When you are working in the heat, it is nice to have something small to knit or crochet.  If, like me, you have grandkids to spoil or maybe your own babies to create for, this is a good time to work on the little clothes that are such fun to make and look so cute.

I designed this little jumper (or tunic dress) for our oldest granddaughter a few years ago and didn’t take any pictures at the time so I have recreated it to include multiple sizes and what I hope are clear instructions.

I am including it here now as a gift to you for reading my blog.  It will be on Ravelry next week as a paid pattern.

It is kind of mindless knitting but sometimes, especially this time of the year, that’s okay.  I hope that you enjoy my latest pattern and that you will share a photo of your finished jumper with me.

Pink Ice Cream Jumper

This pretty little jumper is knit from the bottom up in the round starting with the ruffle.  The buttons are sewn onto the straps with the buttonholes in the bodice which allow you to easily move the buttons to make the jumper grow a little bit with your kidlet.  The bodice is designed to fit snuggly with a stretchy fabric.

You can make the ruffle in a different colour from the body and add a third colour at the bodice.  I have made this pattern in a self striping yarn as well and it was very cute worn over a coordinating Tshirt.

 

Sizes: 6 months, 1, 1 ½, 2, 3.  Chest is designed with negative ease of 1.25cm or ½”.

Gauge: 24 stitches x 31 rows = 10cm or 4″

Materials:  300 to 350m or 330 to 390 yds of baby or sport weight yarn, two buttons.

Tools: 4mm (US6), 60cm (24″) circular needle, stitch holder, stitch marker.

Abbreviations:           k = knit

p = purl

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

 

To begin: Cast on 260 (264, 276, 280, 292) stitches and join being careful not to twist stitches. I used a long tail cast on but a cable cast on is pretty too.  If you have trouble joining in the round with this many stitches, work the garter rows back and forth and join after that so that you can see if your work is twisted.  You can use your cast on tail to sew the garter piece closed and no one will know the difference.  Place a marker at the join to mark the beginning of your rounds.

 

Ruffle:

Rounds 1 to 4: Garter stitch (in the round, knit 1 row, purl 1 row).

Rounds 5 to 14: Stocking stitch (in the round, knit every row).

Round 15: k2tog around. 130 (132, 138, 140, 146) stitches remain).

Skirt:

Work in stocking stitch until the body piece measures 15.25, (20.25, 25, 30.5, 35.5) cm or 6 (8, 10, 12, 14)” total including the ruffle.  This measurement is a guide only.  Stop when you think that the skirt is long enough for your child.

Bodice:

All stitches will be worked as k1, p1 rib for the remainder of the jumper.

Round 1: k1, p1, repeat from marker to marker.

Repeat Round 1: 7 (9, 11, 15, 17) more times.

Next Round: Cast off 10 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches st, work 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches in k1, p1 rib, cast off 10 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches, work 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches in k1, p1 rib.  Remove marker.

You will be working back and forth from here on.

Place the first 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches (back piece) on a holder as you will now be working back and forth over the last 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) (front piece) stitches.  You can leave the first batch of stitches on the needle and just work back and forth on the front stitches if you don’t want to move them to a stitch holder.

Rows 1 to 10: k2tog through the back loop, k1, p1 to last two stitches, k2tog.  You are decreasing 1 stitch each end and will have a total of 30 (32, 34, 34, 36) stitches remaining on Row 10.

Rows 11 to 15: k1, p1 to end of the row.

Row 16: Make buttonholes: Maintaining k1, p1 rib, work 4 stitches, k2tog, yo, k1, p1 for 18 (20, 22, 22, 24) stitches, yo, k2tog, k1, p1 over remaining 4 stitches.

Row 17 to 21: k1, p1 to end of row.

Cast off tightly to keep top edge from stretching.

Transfer the second (back) set of 50 (52, 54, 54, 56) stitches from the holder to your working needle.

Rows 1 to 10: k2tog through the back loop, k1, p1 to last two stitches, k2tog.  You are decreasing 1 stitch each end and will have a total of 30 (32, 34, 34, 36) stitches remaining on Row 10.

Rows 11 to 21: k1, p1 to end of row.

Row 22: Work the first 8 stitches in k1, p1 rib, cast off next 14 (16, 18, 18, 20) stitches (tightly to minimize stretch), work the last 8 stitches in k1, p1 rib.

Place the first 8 stitches on the stitch holder or leave it on your needle if you are comfortable working on the second 8 stitches with the first hanging.

 

Straps:

Rows 1 to 49: k1, p1 to end of row.  If you want a shorter strap, cast off when you reach the length that looks good to you.  I made mine extra long so that the buttons could be moved for grow room.

Cast off.  Transfer the remaining 8 stitches from the stitch holder and repeat Rows 1 to 49, cast off.  Block lightly, weave in ends and sew buttons to ends of straps to fit snugly to shoulders.