Tag: lace

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

Curved Shoulder Scarf for Spring

Iris Rose

I know that I have been missing for the last couple of weeks, my apologies. Sometimes life just takes over and leaves little time for the fun stuff.

I have a free pattern on Ravelry that has been very popular and deserves another feature here for you. It is a very easy shoulder scarf that is perfect to keep the chill off when you are wearing your pretty sundress or tank top.

I have knit this up in worsted weight, both light and heavy, in a couple of colours and like each one. I rated this one as easy to make and it is actually a pretty quick knit as well. I think that it would look lovely in a soft and fuzzy yarn as well.

Change up the lace for a different look. There are a ton of antique lace patterns out there that could easily be substituted for the one I used.

This curved shoulder scarf is shaped with short rows and decreases and edged with old fashioned garter lace which is knit first. I used a diamond edging but any 12 row garter lace edging up to about 15 stitches wide could be substituted. Please note there are now two different garter edges at the top of the scarf; one is straight and the alternate curved to cover the ends of the lace.

Needles: 6.5mm (US 10.5), 80cm (32”) circular needle, two stitch markers.

Yarn: any worsted weight yarn. I have used DK to the heavy worsted pictured above.

Abbreviations:
K = knit P = purl

K2Tog = knit 2 stitches together

K3Tog = knit 3 stitches together

YO = yarn over

W&T = wrap and turn, turn work, slip the last unworked stitch onto the left hand needle, bring the yarn to front, slip the stitch back to the right needle and bring the yarn to the back, reverse front to back on purl rows.

Diamond Garter Lace Edging:
Cast on 9 stitches
R1: K3, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K1, YO, K1
R2: (K1, P1) x 3, K4
R3: K2, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K3, YO, K1
R4: K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P1, K3
R5: K1, (K2Tog, YO) x 2, K5, YO, K1
R6: K1, P1, K5, P1, K1, P1, K2
R7: K3, (YO, K2Tog) x 2, K1, K2Tog, YO, K2Tog
R8: K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, P1, K3
R9: K4, YO, K2Tog, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog
R10: (K1, P1) x 3, K4
R11: K5, YO, K3Tog, YO, K2Tog
R12: (K1, P1) x2, K5

Work 21 repeats of the edging, cast off with row 12 of final repeat and leave the last stitch on the needle.

Body of scarf:
Pick up and knit 125 stitches along top edge of diamond lace (126 stitches total including the one on your needle to start). If you pick up one stitch between each knot at edging row ends, you will have a smooth join. If you pick up in the knots, you will have a seam.

R1: Wrong side of work, purl all stitches.
R2: K1, (YO, K2Tog) to last stitch, K1.
R3: Purl all stitches, placing a marker after 42 and 84 stitches, dividing the work into 3 equal sections. This is where you will decrease to shape the shoulders.
R4: Knit to 1st marker, slip marker and work a left leaning decrease by slipping the two stitches after the marker knitwise, slipping them back to the left needle and knitting them together. Knit to 2 stitches before the next marker, knit these 2 stitches together for a right leaning decrease and slip marker. You will work every right side row this way until 22 stitches remain between the markers. Knit to 37 stitches after the last marker, wrap and turn (W&T).
R5: Purl across working 37 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R6: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 32 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R7: Purl across working 32 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R8: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 27 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R9: Purl across working 27 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R10: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 22 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R11: Purl across working 22 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R12: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 17 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R13: Purl across working 17 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R14: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 12 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R15: Purl across working 12 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R16: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 7 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R17: Purl across working 7 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R18: Knit to 1st marker, decreasing between the markers as described in R4, knit 2 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R19: Purl across working 2 stitches after the last marker, W&T.
R20: Knit to end picking up the wraps at W&T and decreasing at the markers.
R21: Purl across to end picking up the wraps at W&T. If you are going to knit the Alternate Edge, cut your yarn here, leaving all of your stitches on the needle and go to the Alternate Edge Instructions at the end of the pattern.
R22: Knit across, decreasing between the markers and removing the markers as you go. 106 stitches remain on your needle.
R23: Knit (wrong side).
R24: (K8, K2Tog) x 10, K6. (96 stitches remain)
R25-27: Knit.
Cast off loosely, weave in ends and block. I always give my knitting a good tug in all directions before blocking to even out the stitches, a throw back to when I learned to machine knit.

Alternate Edge: See note below
R22: With the right side of your scarf facing you, start at the bottom edge of the lace and pick up and knit 12 stitches along the side (9 on the lace and 3 on the body of the scarf). Continue knitting the stitches that are on your needle, decreasing between the markers and removing the markers as you work. Pick up and knit 12 stitches across the end of the scarf (3 on the body and 9 on the lace). (130 stitches)
R23: Knit all stitches.
R24: K19, K2 Tog, (K8, K2Tog) x 9, K19 (120 stitches).
R25-27: Knit.
Cast off loosely, weave in ends and block.
Note: If you are using a yarn without much stretch, you should increase 1 stitch on R24 between stitches 11 and 12 and in the same place at the other end to allow your edge to curve when blocked without pulling.

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

Buying More Gradients, Oh No! and Shawl Part 4

Iris Rose

I seem to be on a trend lately. I have acquired a number of gradient yarns and have a couple of more cakes on the way. I found a new online vendor, Hobbii, on Facebook and decided to give them a go. The yarn has not yet arrived but I am expecting it this week and will review it next post for you. They are a Danish company and seem to have customer service top of mind. The yarns appear to be good quality with fair prices and free shipping to Canada if the order is over $74.00 USD and only $6.50 if under that amount. Anyway, I ordered some (okay four) of the cotton/acrylic gradient cakes that they had on sale and one of the gradient cotton cakes. If they are anything like Scheepjes Whirl, I will be a happy woman.


Okay, now the pressure is on to design and write patterns for the gradients that are piling up in my stash but I think that I am up to it. I am on a shawl trend lately too; I have started a new one that is knit from Caron Cotton Cakes (a gift from DD1), not a gradient but close enough. I hope to include crochet in this one too. I am in the mulling stage but will get there eventually I am sure. It is very pretty so far; maybe photos will follow in the next couple of weeks.

Anyway, I bet that you are wondering when I will get to Shawl Part 4. Here it is.

Row1: Work border stitches as before, slip marker, YO, (K3, S2K1PSSO, K3, YO, K1, YO) to 3 stitches remaining, K3, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K3, (YO, K1, YO, K3, S2K1PSSO, K3) to next marker, YO, slip marker, worker border stitches as before.

Row 2 and all wrong side rows: Work border stitches as before, P all stitches to last marker, slipping markers at centre spine, slip marker, work border stitches as before.

Row 3: Work border stitches as before, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, (K2, S2K1PSSO, K2, YO, K3, YO) to last 4 stitches, K2, K2tog, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, K2tog, K2, (YO, K3, YO, K2, S2K1PSSO, K2) to end, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, work border stitches as before.

Row 5: Work border stitches as before, YO, K2, YO, (K1, S2K1PSSO, K1, YO, K5, YO) to last 5 stitches, K1, S2K1PSSO, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, S2K1PSSO, K1, (YO, K5, YO, K1, S2K1PSSO, K1) to end, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, work border stitches as before.

Row 7: Work border stitches as before, YO, K3, YO, (S2K1PSSO, YO, K7, YO) to last 5 stitches, S2K1PSSO, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K7, YO, S2K1PSSO,)to end, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, work border stitches as before.

This is one repeat of the lace pattern for this part. Work these 8 rows once again working another repeat of the lace in after and before the markers as you can. If this is difficult for you, just work these extra stitches in stocking stitch but don’t forget your YO at the beginning and end of each lace section between the markers.

And there you have it, Part 4 which is a simple horseshoe lace. As always, if you find any errors or need help, contact me here or on Ravelry.  Next week we have the border, the last section of the shawl. My finished and blocked shawl turned out to be 160cm x 56cm or 62” x 22”.  I used the full skein with very little left!

Here is a sneak peak of the finished shawl.  Have a happy week full of yarny goodness!

Knitting

Shawl Part 3, Easy Peasy

Iris Rose

Wow, August! Why does the summer go by so fast and the winter so slowly? I guess that there is so much more activity in our part of the world when the air is warm than there is when it is cold. There must be at least five festivals every weekend (or so it seems) and it is nice just to relax outside.  I baked this banana cream pie last night for DH’s birthday today.  You might want to have a slice before you listen to my complaining.

Banana Cream Pie

I still find time to craft amidst all of the activity and have been working on a few new patterns. I have kind of been taking a break from publishing. While I don’t mind constructive criticism and am always, always happy to help, sometimes the negative remarks sting, especially on the free stuff which is way more popular than the paid. I guess that is an unfortunate part of the internet culture, where it is okay to be rude and nasty and hide behind the anonymity.

Okay then, my rant is over and I hope that I didn’t offend anyone. I really do appreciate your support.

 

On to the subject of this blog post, Part 3 of my Shawl in Parts pattern. I am going to change the name when it is done but am waiting to see how pretty it is before I decide on the best name for this lovely shawl. Carry on and have fun!

Shawl Part 3:

You will be working the borders and the centre five stitch spine throughout this part in the same way that you did for Parts 1 and 2. You are going to notice that the stitch used in this part, double moss, tends to pull the work in from the relaxed lace stitch. Remember the miracle of blocking and don’t worry; your shawl will be lovely when finished and blocked.

Row 1: Work your border stitches as before, slip marker, YO, (K1, P1) across to last stitch, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, (K1, P1) to last stitch, K1, YO, slip marker and work the border as before.

Row 2: Work your border stitches as before, slip marker, P1, (P1, K1) across to last stitch, P2, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P1, (P1, K1) to last stitch, P2, slip marker and work the border as before.

Work Rows 1 and 2 until you have 115 stitches between the border markers and the centre markers on each side.

That was easy, wasn’t it? Next week we are back to a bit of lace and then we will be on to the final border which I am still conflicted about. I am sure that I will have my inner argument settled and the shawl ready by then.  Have a happy week!

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

New Shawl, Free Pattern in Parts

Iris Rose

This week has been a finish before you are allowed to start anything else week. I made a deal with myself to get the stack of WIP’s finished even though I was dying to start something new. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

I did break that pact with myself (what can I say, I am weak, just weak!) and started a new shawl. I will post the pattern is parts starting below with the first section and continuing over the next few weeks. I had a cake of gradient yarn that was crying very loudly to be used and here is the beginning of what I hope will be something lovely.

I did manage to get caught up on the WIP’s; all are done except one and that one is close to finished. Anyhow, here is the beginning part to the shawl, a triangular one with a wider than normal spine.


Materials: 380m or 435 yds of sock weight gradient yarn. If you don’t have a gradient, go ahead and use any sock weight yarn that appeals to you. I was panting to use up this cake that I had in front of me since I bought it.  Like this one only a different colour as you can see above.

Tools: 4mm or US 6 circular needle, 60cm or 24” or longer, 4 stitch markers.

Note: you will start every row, once the garter tab is done, with slip one with the yarn in front and carry the yarn over to knit the next stitch. There will be a 4 stitch garter border on each side. The slipped stitch is knitted together with the yarn over on the return row to make a pretty braid look edge. If you want, you can simply knit 4 at the beginning and end of each row.

Start the shawl with a garter tab, that is cast on 4 stitches and knit 1 row. You will make the slip, yarn over only on one side for this part.
Row 2: Slip 1, yarn over and knit 3.
Row 3: Knit 4 (slipped stitch and yarn over knit together make the last stitch).
Repeat these two rows 4 more times, work Row 1 once more.
Pick up and knit 5 stitches along the side of the rows without the slipped stitches. Pick up and knit 4 stitches along the beginning edge.  Your garter tab is done.

 

Start the main part of the shawl from here.
Row 1: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, place marker, P5, place marker, K4, don’t forget to work the last stitch together with the yarn over.
Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, place marker, K5, place marker, YO, slip marker, K4.
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, P1, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P1, slip marker, K4.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4.
Row 5: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, P3, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P3, slip marker, K4.

Continue increasing by repeating Rows 4 and 5 with the number of stitches between the first and second markers growing by 2 on each side of the centre spine on each right side row.
Work in this pattern until you have 65 stitches between the first and second then third and fourth markers in each side on the five stitch spine.

If you have questions, you can contact me here or on Ravelry as Bluechicken.

Next week we will start on the first lace pattern section. Until then, have fun with this very easy shawl and have a happy week!

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

The Magic of Blocking

Iris Rose

So you are finished that beautiful piece of crochet or knitting, and, after all of your hard work, the piece looks like a crumpled bit of a yarny mess. It can be so disheartening after the hours and love that you have invested.

Blocking your piece will make a huge (and I mean massively amazing) difference in how the piece looks and also the size of what you have finished. You can see from the before and afters that blocking is time well spent.

     


Blocking can be done in a couple of ways. My favourite, for lace especially, is to soak the item and then pin it out to the size I want and let it dry overnight. This method works well with natural fibres. If I have used a synthetic fibre, I skip the soak, pin it out in the same way and steam it. I like to steam my shawls in particular so that the fibre softens and holds the stretched or pinned out shape. You do need to be careful not to overheat acrylic or you will end up with a melty, crunchy mess. Ask me how I know!

      

Both of these acrylic wraps were steamed to block.

      

If you only want to lightly block sweater pieces for example, I like to pin them out to match the length of seams and lightly steam them. This works with both natural and synthetics. You only want to release some of the curl and straighten out the stitches. Acrylics also respond well to a simple warm wash and a short spin in the dryer (not too hot) to look good.

      

These little sweaters were lightly steamed then washed.

My Vine Lace Wrap below was soaked and pinned.

      

      

After you have invested all of your time and lovely yarn to make a sweater, shawl or other beautiful item, spend a little extra time and block. You won’t be disappointed.

Have a wonderful crafty week and may all your yarn skeins pull smoothly from the centre!