Tag: lace

Knitting

The 3F’s of Project Mangement

Iris Rose

Every couple of months (okay six months, okay, okay, every year or two) I find myself surrounded by unfinished projects that I have started, in some cases, who knows why, and really have the urge to clean up.  This usually happens when I can’t find a single available 5mm needle when I know that I have several or when I can’t see my table top.  Sometimes the avalanche when I open the closet door is an incentive as well.

When any of these things happen, and sometimes all of them happen at once, I have a 3F day or maybe two days, okay a week.  Finish, frog, or fro out.  I know that fro is not used this way but I like the rhyme.  It also reminds me of two year olds cleaning up and right before the tantrum which describes me to a tee on 3F day.

Finish is, of course, the best action for an almost complete project.  Projects do not go in the finish pile if: they are ugly and will never fit anyone and that’s why they are not finished, they are so old that the style has already come and gone a second time so waiting another forty years is just foolish, or I just plain hate working with the yarn in question.  Anything that is not in one of the categories above is placed into a bin.  Every time I want to start a new project (which is every minute of every day) I force myself to finish one from the bin.  This method works most of time although once in a while I change the finish status of the UFO to frog just so that I can start something new!  The only one who really cares is me and I like crafting too much to work on something I hate.

Frog is next on the to do list.  All of the projects that I can’t bring myself to finish are set aside so that I can rip out, rewind and reuse the yarn.  This goes for the too old if the yarn is still nice, the ugly and will never fit anyone, again if the yarn is still nice and the I hate working with the yarn if it is because the yarn didn’t suit the pattern.  Maybe it just needs a larger or smaller needle or hook or to be paired with a contrast to dilute the impact.  I usually set aside an evening or two to accomplish restashing these never to be finished projects.

Fro is a hard one.  I, like any yarnie worth their salt, hate to throw away “good yarn” but have learned the hard way (remember I mentioned an avalanche?) that you just can’t keep everything.  Try throwing away a truly unlikeable project that you know you will never finish made with yarn that you will never like.  It is freeing in a way that you can’t imagine!  I have reached the point now where, when I look through my stash and wonder why I ever kept all of those ten metre or less pieces or even those part skeins of so-so yarn, I can gather them up and put them in the garbage can.  Yes, (and I can hear the response to wasting yarn) it is great to donate to charity groups but, if the yarn is too old or really awful to work with, why inflict it on someone else to work with or wear.

Get over the guilt and try your own purge and you will find that you may have some really lovely finished things, some really lovely recycled yarn and a great big space where all of the uglies lived!

New pattern alert: I have published a paid cardigan pattern on Ravelry this week.  It is lace and stocking stitch in multiple sizes.  Have a look!   http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/roses-and-lace-cardigan

Knitting

Northern Rose Shawl Part Three

Iris Rose

I have test knit my new shawl pattern a couple of times and am confident that there are few if no errors.  If you do find one, please, please, please let me know!  You can message me in the comments or on Ravelry.  I always like to correct any errors as soon as they are found and really appreciate everyone’s input into making my patterns easier to use.  Thanks!

I have knit this shawl in both a worsted weight and a four ply.  I used a 5.5mm needle for the worsted and a 4.5mm for the four ply (sock) weight.  Both turned out really pretty and, while the worsted is very winter snuggly, the light one is lovely and drapey.  The same pattern made two very different fabrics so the choice is yours on the look and feel that you want.

Now, without further rambling, here is part three of the Northern Rose Shawl.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!

Edge Lace Pattern:

Row 1: K1, slip marker, YO, K to last stitch, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and all wrong side rows: K all stitches slipping the markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat to last marker, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: Repeat Row 1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K1, YO, K4, S2K1PSSO, K4, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, K1, (K2, YO, K3, S2K1PSSO, K3, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, K2, (K3, YO, K2, S2K1PSSO, K2, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, (K1, YO, K3, YO, K1, S2K1PSSO, K1, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.  Pattern repeat stitch count is now 14.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2 (K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker K1.

Row 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO (K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1. Pattern repeat stitch count is now 16.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1 (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen times more, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, (K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, (K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO) repeat seventeen more times, K1, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.  Pattern repeat stitch count is now 18.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1 (K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat seventeen more times, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2 (K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat seventeen more times, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3 (K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat seventeen more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K all stitches, remove the markers as you come to them.

Bind off knitwise on the wrong side using a stretchy bind off.  I used the following: K2, slip stitches back onto the left needle and K2tog to start then (K1, slide the two stitches on the right needle onto the left needle and K2tog) repeat across.  If you have another favourite that you like to use that’s fine just make sure that it is stretchy so that you can block out your lace.

Block and weave in ends.

Knitting

Okay, Part Two is Ready

Iris Rose

I have test knit part two of my Northern Rose Shawl and it is ready!  The pattern has changed slightly from the one in the photo as I have extended the lace patterning to the edges of the shawl at both the outside and centre areas.  I think that the finished look is nicer and more complete looking rather than having a straight knit part before the lace begins.  I hope that you enjoy this part of the shawl as much as I enjoyed creating it.  Part three will be up shortly.

Happy knitting!  Please keep in mind that webpage formatting is funny (not haha, either) and, in this case, will not allow me to use an asterix to mark the repeats.  Use the brackets as a guide.  Any stitches inside the brackets and in italics are to be repeated the given number of times.  Note also that the number of repeats grows as the width of the shawl grows.

Diamond Lace Section: you will maintain the centre lace panel while you are knitting the diamond lace on each side.

Row 1: K1, slip marker YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and every wrong side row: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2), repeat two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K9, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1, (K2, SSK, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1), repeat two more times, K2, SSK, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K1,(K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1), repeat two more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, ( K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK) repeat  two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat two more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, (S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO,) repeat two more times, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2togYO, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K8, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K2, YO, SSK, K8, YO, slip marker, K1.

Rows 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K10, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K10, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K5, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K1, slip marker, YO, K5, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K2, YO, SSK, K7, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K7, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 35: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 36: K all stitches slipping markers as you come to them.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!

Knitting

Northern Rose Shawl Part One

Iris Rose

 

I have been working on this shawl pattern for a while now.  It is a hybrid of Shetland and Faroese styling with only garter lace and plain garter stitch parts (no purls here!). 

It has been one of those projects where if anything is going to go wrong it will.  If you look closely at the photo you will see what I mean.  Even the yarn was spun with more mohair in some parts than in others which was fine in the natural but not so fine in the rose.  Alternating skeins seemed to make no difference.

I had some random skeins of a mohair, silk and wool blend that the ebay monster made me buy and did not have anything already developed that I thought the yarn wanted to be.  I had three colours, 100g of natural, 100g of deep rose, and 200g of dark green.  I ended up with just 50g of the green which I have no idea what I will do with but, you know, never throw away good yarn.  That explains the thirty year old skeins in my stash!

Anyway, back to the shawl, I have written the pattern and am offering it free in parts with written directions only over the next three blog posts.  I will publish it on Ravelry but as a paid pattern with charts as well as written directions.  This first part will give you a sampler of what the whole pattern will be like.  This section could be continued to make the whole shawl if you want a simpler wrap up and it would be a very cozy piece.

 

Materials: Worsted weight yarn: 125m (140 yds) of cream, 170m (185 yds) of rose, 250m (280yds) of green.

Tools: 5.5mm (US 9) 60cm (24”) circular knitting needle, 4 or more stitch markers, tapestry needle to weave in ends.

Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows in garter stitch, blocked.  Gauge is not crucial but you should try to achieve a close number to ensure that your shawl is the same size.

Cast on 23 stitches using a cable cast on.  All stitches in this pattern are knit; no purls here!  On every wrong side row throughout the shawl, knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Initial Row: K1, YO, (K2tog, YO) repeat to to last two stitches, K2tog.

First Wrong Side Row: Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Garter Stitch Section and Centre Lace Panel:

Row 1: K1, place marker YO, K2, YO, place marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, place marker, YO, K2, YO, place marker, K1.

Row 3: K1,slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 16: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Repeat Rows 1 to 16 three more times.  Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You should have 64 garter stitches between the first and second markers and the same on the other side of the lace panel.

Knitting

Another Cake Shawl

Iris Rose

This pattern was knit with one cake of Caron Cakes yarn.  The pattern, as written, takes advantage of the long colour changes and (here is a caution) may need to be adjusted by a row or two if the colour changes don’t match the cake that I used.  I have found that most of the cakes have similar starting points and the pattern, as is, will be close to what you have.  I have added notes to make the differences easier to manage.

The shawl has eight different designs in lace or textured stitches to showcase your knitting skills.  None of the patterns are difficult but you will start with a basic stitch and become more challenged by the design at each change.

Size: 163cm x 74cm or 64″ x 29″ blocked

Tools: 6mm or US 10 circular needle, 60cm (24″) or longer to hold all of the stitches when you reach the final rows, two stitch markers (more if you like to marker each pattern repeat), tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Materials: one cake of Caron Cakes yarn or the equivalent number of metres or yards (350m or 384 yds) in any worsted weight yarn.

Gauge: 14 stitches x 24 rows in garter stitch, lightly blocked. Gauge is not critical as this is a shawl but if you want to have a similar finished size you need to swatch.

Abbreviations:           K = knit                                           P = purl

YO = yarn over                               K2tog = knit two stitches together

Note: The first two and last two stitches of the row are always worked the same way.  You can place stitch markers at these points if you need to be reminded when you reach the end of the row.  The first stitch is always slipped purlwise with the yarn in front.  The second stitch is knit with the yarn wrapped over to make the stitch.  The second to last stitch is knit and the last stitch is knit with both the slipped stitch and the yarn over together.  This will make a pretty braid like edging to the top edge and one long side of your triangle.

Another Note: The side of your work with the yarn over near the beginning of the row is the wrong side.  The yarn over feature will form the top edge of your shawl with the pretty braid.

Shawl, Garter Section: Cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: K all stitches

Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, place marker, K to last two stitches, place marker, K2.

Row 3 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, place marker, K to last three stitches, place marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, k to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach the end of your first colour.  You should have 64 to 70 rows of garter stitch and need to be on the right side (no YO) to start the next section.  The exact number of rows of garter stitch is not important but you can count the ridges and multiply by two if you want to make notes as you go.  If you have some of the first colour left (not enough for two rows of garter stitch), start the next section with the old colour and let the transition fall where ever it lands.

Mesh Lace Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (YO, K2tog), repeat * to * to the marker at the last marker, slip marker, K2.  You may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.

Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (K2tog, YO), repeat * to * to the last marker, slip marker, K2.  Again, you may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.

Repeat Rows 1 to 4 until you reach the end of this colour making sure that you still have enough yarn to work the last wrong side row and you start the next colour on the right side (no YO at the beginning).  You don’t need to worry about completing all four rows of the lace as long as you end by completing either row 2 or 4.

Work two rows of stocking stitch with the new colour or a combination of the old and new colour if the change comes in the middle of a row.

Zigzag Stitch Section: make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.   On every right side row, if you don’t have enough stitches to complete the ten stitch pattern, knit the remaining stitches and work them into the pattern as the total stitch count increases.

Row 2(wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.

Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 8: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K1, P1, slip marker K2.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 10: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.

Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 14: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.

Row 15: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3 .

Repeat these 15 rows or repeat as many as you can until the next colour change.  You will end working on a wrong side row to start the next section.  If your colour change is going to be in the middle of the next row, that’s okay as this will be a transition row between the two stitch patterns.

Next Row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Garter Rib Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, P2) across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.  If you have extra stitches, work them in knit until you have increased enough to work another pattern repeat.

Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, K2.

Repeat these two rows until you reach the next colour change.  You need to end on Row 2 so that your next row is worked on the right side.  If your colour change is going to happen part way through the next repeat, stop now and go to the next section.

Modified Leaf Lace Section:

Rows 1 to 4: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual.  Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, K3, S2K1P2SSO, K3, YO, K1), repeat * to * across to the last marker, working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 7: repeat Row 5.

Row 8: repeat Row 6.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K1, YO, K2, S2K1P2SSO, K2, YO, K2), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 10: repeat Row 6.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, YO, K1, S2K1P2SSO, K1, YO, K3), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: repeat Row 6.

Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, YO, S2K1P2SSO, YO, K4), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Rows 14 to 17: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual.  Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Repeat Rows 5 to 17 one more time.  Your next colour change should happen in the four garter rows at the end of the second pattern repeat.

Double Seed or Moss Stitch Section:

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, P2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2.  (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (P2, K2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2.  (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).

Repeat Rows 1 to 4 four more times.  Your next colour change should come in the last one or two rows that you work.  If you have a small amount to use before the next change, go on to the next section.

Diagonal Lace Section:

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 2 and every even numbered row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K1, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K3, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K5, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Repeat Rows 1 to 12 once more.  You should have reached the next colour change.  If not, continue with the diagonal lace pattern until you can finish with a wrong side row so the you start the next pattern on the right side.  If you reach the colour change before you complete the second repeat, just go on to the next section as long as can start with a right side row.

Feather and Fan or Old Shale Lace:

Row 1 and 2: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual.  Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Row 3: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2tog twice, (YO, K1) four times, K2tog twice). Repeat across to last marker, knitting any extra stitches at the end that can’t be worked into the pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Repeat these four rows twice more.  You need to leave enough yarn to cast off with so you might only have two repeats and cast off after Row 2 of the third repeat.  Cast off loosely.  Weave in your ends, block and you are done!