Tag: new pattern

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

New Shawl, Free Pattern in Parts

Iris Rose

This week has been a finish before you are allowed to start anything else week. I made a deal with myself to get the stack of WIP’s finished even though I was dying to start something new. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

I did break that pact with myself (what can I say, I am weak, just weak!) and started a new shawl. I will post the pattern is parts starting below with the first section and continuing over the next few weeks. I had a cake of gradient yarn that was crying very loudly to be used and here is the beginning of what I hope will be something lovely.

I did manage to get caught up on the WIP’s; all are done except one and that one is close to finished. Anyhow, here is the beginning part to the shawl, a triangular one with a wider than normal spine.


Materials: 380m or 435 yds of sock weight gradient yarn. If you don’t have a gradient, go ahead and use any sock weight yarn that appeals to you. I was panting to use up this cake that I had in front of me since I bought it.  Like this one only a different colour as you can see above.

Tools: 4mm or US 6 circular needle, 60cm or 24” or longer, 4 stitch markers.

Note: you will start every row, once the garter tab is done, with slip one with the yarn in front and carry the yarn over to knit the next stitch. There will be a 4 stitch garter border on each side. The slipped stitch is knitted together with the yarn over on the return row to make a pretty braid look edge. If you want, you can simply knit 4 at the beginning and end of each row.

Start the shawl with a garter tab, that is cast on 4 stitches and knit 1 row. You will make the slip, yarn over only on one side for this part.
Row 2: Slip 1, yarn over and knit 3.
Row 3: Knit 4 (slipped stitch and yarn over knit together make the last stitch).
Repeat these two rows 4 more times, work Row 1 once more.
Pick up and knit 5 stitches along the side of the rows without the slipped stitches. Pick up and knit 4 stitches along the beginning edge.  Your garter tab is done.

 

Start the main part of the shawl from here.
Row 1: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, place marker, P5, place marker, K4, don’t forget to work the last stitch together with the yarn over.
Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, place marker, K5, place marker, YO, slip marker, K4.
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, P1, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P1, slip marker, K4.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4.
Row 5: Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, YO, K3, slip marker, P3, slip marker, P5, slip marker, P3, slip marker, K4.

Continue increasing by repeating Rows 4 and 5 with the number of stitches between the first and second markers growing by 2 on each side of the centre spine on each right side row.
Work in this pattern until you have 65 stitches between the first and second then third and fourth markers in each side on the five stitch spine.

If you have questions, you can contact me here or on Ravelry as Bluechicken.

Next week we will start on the first lace pattern section. Until then, have fun with this very easy shawl and have a happy week!

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

Cardigan Yoke Do Over

Iris Rose

Well, this was some busy week, wasn’t it? I was sure it was Friday yesterday but no dice, I still had to slog through Thursday and am anxiously awaiting the real appearance of the last work day of the week.

I am working on finishing up the significant heap of almost done projects. I always think that it is a good idea to knit or crochet production style. That is, make everything to the point of finishing (all of the pieces) and then finish them all at once. I don’t know why I keep falling for the same old trick that my brain plays on me, but I do. Maybe I just like to start new things and, like almost everyone else, get bored before I finish.

One of the projects I was working on finishing is a fairisle yoke cardigan. I had machine knit the basic pieces and joined them to hand knit a yoke. I should have done a little more swatching and actually followed a pattern but, as I like a challenge, I decided to wing it. It turned out to be a major fail in fit and looks. Let that be a lesson to me, figure out what you need to do before you actually do it.


In any case, I did like the basic idea and decided, after the cardigan spent a few weeks in the time out for bad projects pile, to try to rescue the work. I needed to do two things. I needed to upsize the needle that I used as the yoke gathered the bottom pieces in a little even though the colour work was not puckered. I also needed to make the yoke about twice as long. In my rush to be finished, I decreased too often and cast off too soon resulting in a yoke that pulled the sweater up painfully under my arms and strangled me at the neck edge.

    
I used a circular needle one size up from the original and picked up all of the stitches around the top of the plain pieces. I crossed my fingers and clipped the yarn of first row of the yoke at each end of the work and pulled. The yoke separated from the bottom and I was ready to start again. I actually did a little math this time and, even though I am still winging the pattern, I think that it will work out. I am really happy with the look and anxious to get this one finished. I will still need to add some ribbing at the bottom and sleeves.

  
In an attempt to decrease my ever increasing stash, I am using up an assortment of colours of the same yarn. I bought the yarn on ebay one ball at a time and didn’t end up with enough to make a whole cardi in the same colour, but I think that this will work to make a very pretty sweater. I am going to leave out the red and just go with black and light grey this time.  I am aiming for next week but don’t hold your breath.

Cooking will be up next week; I will share my awesome biscotti recipe. Even if you don’t like dry cookies, you are gonna love these. Have a great week and Happy Canada Day!

Crochet, Knitting

New Pattern and Crocheted Edge for Last Week’s Freebie

Iris Rose

During the madness of my life (good madness not bad) this week, I have managed two things, well actually almost three. I have that crocheted edging pattern ready for you down below in the post that goes with the knitted cardigan pattern that I published last week. I have finished, but not written up, the cardigan knitted edging, can you say girly ruffles, and am very happy with it. The test knit is a size four and I am working on a two now before the pattern is complete.

      

Most importantly of all, I have, tada, finished the crocheted wrap that I have been teasing you with.  A Wrap for Spring is a paid pattern and is available for you to download on Ravelry in my store. If you act now (do I sound like an infomercial yet?) you can use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout to buy the pattern for half price until March 7th. That is a cool $2.50, such a deal!

I am still offering half off on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns as well. These are $2.50 with the same coupon code at checkout.


Now that I have given you my sales pitch, here is the promised edging for those of you who crochet as well as knit.

Crocheted Edge for Size 5/6 Cardigan:
This edging is crocheted all in one piece around all of the edges of the knit cardigan. Ideally you will only have the beginning and ending ends to weave in, my kind of project! As you will be switching from in the round to back and forth while you work, I have not broken the instructions down into rounds and rows. I will name the edges that are being crocheted on instead.

Tools: 5mm, US H/8 crochet hook, tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Materials: 100m or 110 yds worsted weight yarn in the same colour as knitted cardigan or a contrasting colour.
Abbreviations:         sc = single crochet           dc = double crochet
ch = chain                         sl st + slip stitch

With right side facing you, at the bottom left corner, join your yarn.

Bottom: Work 28 sc along the edge of the left front, 56 sc across the back, 28 sc across the right front. Work 1 sc in the same place as the last sc on the right front to make the corner.

Right Front: You will now make the buttonhole band. Work 36 sc evenly up the right front to the neck edge, ch 1 and turn. If you sc into the knots at the row ends rather than the bars, you should have 1 sc in each knot. This will also result in a firmer edge.

Working back down the right front into the sc edge that you just completed, 1sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, sc into each of the remaining 24 sc to the end, ch1 and turn. Here you have made three buttonholes.

Working back up to the neck edge, work 1sc into each sc and 1sc into each ch2 space of the prior row. Do not turn.
The front band is finished except for the scalloped edging which is done later.

Neck Edge: ch1 into the same place as your last sc of the front band, work 2sc evenly across the top of the band, work 14sc evenly across the right front neck, 18 sc across the back neck and 14sc across the left front neck, sc in corner to begin the left front band.

Left Front: Work 36sc evenly down the left front edge (right side facing), ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below, ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below. Do not turn. You will be at the bottom edge where you started and the left front band is complete except for the scallops which come later.

Bottom: 1sc in same place as last sc to make the corner. Work 2sc evenly across the bottom of the band, then 1sc in each sc across the bottom to the right front, ch3 and turn.
The ch3 that you ended the last row with will represent a dc and ch1. Skip the first sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc seven times, (dc, ch1) in the next sc. This will make an increase to ease the finished edging around the curve of the bottom. Skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve, make the increase by working in the next sc and continue on with skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve. Complete the row increasing at each outside curve (a total of four times), dc in last sc, ch1 and turn.  Working back across the bottom, sc in each dc and ch1 space. Do not turn.

You will now work the finished scalloped edge all around from the right front, across the neck, down the left front and across the bottom.

Right Front Scallops: skip the first sc on the right front, (5sc in next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next sc). Repeat the instructions in the brackets eight more times. Work 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc and sl st into the last sc.

Neck Edge: Work 1sc into each sc of the neck edge. Work 2sc evenly into the side of the left band at the end, sl st into the corner sc.

Left Front Scallops: Skip the first sc, 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc to the bottom. The last sl st should be in the bottom corner.

Bottom Scallops: Skip the first 2 sc in the row below, [(dc, ch1) four times, dc in the next sc, skip the next 2 sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next 2 sc], repeat the instructions in the square brackets across to the end. Work the last repeat without the last skip 2 sc, just sl st into the last stitch on the bottom. Fasten off.

Sleeve Edge: Join yarn at the underarm seam and work 35 sc evenly into the sleeve edge.
Following the instructions for the Bottom Scallops, make six scallops around the sleeve edge. Fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Weave in your ends and block. Sew buttons on the left band to match the buttonholes on the right band.

Knitting

A Free Sample Of My New Pattern

Iris Rose

New pattern in the works, two in fact! I have been busy, busy trying to get the new patterns ready for you and, guess what? I didn’t make it. I do so want to get these patterns done but life just keeps interfering. You all know how that goes, I am sure.

Anyway, you will have to wait for the crocheted one as the sample is just not complete and it is pretty hard to post a pattern with no photos. Who wants to gamble on a pattern looking great if you can’t see how it looks? I actually have a pet peeve about patterns being released with just a corner or shadowy artsy shot of the finished project. Why would I spend my time and money making something that is a mystery in the hope that it turns out like something I would wear?

But, I digress, a frequent failing of mine, and I was discussing my own patterns, not someone else’s. So, the crochet one will have to wait but I do have a sneak peek for you at the knit one. It is a super easy kid’s cardigan. I haven’t finished the edging, but it will be the same as the machine knit version that I featured earlier this month. I am working on a knit edging for those who don’t crochet as an alternative.

          Three needle bind off on the shoulders

I am still not ready to officially publish the pattern but here is one size (5/6) of the basic cardigan for you to try as a gift from me to you. I will post the edging pattern as another gift next week. The pattern will be available in multiple sizes as a paid pattern, including both knit and crochet edgings once all of the test knits are done.

Don’t forget about the 50OFF coupon code to save 50% on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns in my Ravelry store. At $4.99 regular price these are a bargain!
Enjoy the freebie!

Worsted Kid’s Cardigan, Short Sleeved, Size 5/6

Material: 325m (360 yds) worsted weight yarn, I used Loops and Threads, Impeccable.

Tools: 5.5mm needles, straight or circular, two stitch holders, another needle or crochet hook for 3needle bind off at shoulders if you choose to do that, tapestry needle for sewing and end weaving.

Instructions:
Back: Cast on 30 stitches. I used the cable cast on. Knit side will be the right side of the cardigan.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P1, M1, P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to last stitch, M1, K1.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 20 stitches, 2 per row over ten rows. You should have 50 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 58. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 70 stitches on your needle.
Row 2: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. P all stitches. 82 stitches on your needle.
Work another 28 rows of stocking stitch (30 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a purl row so you are ready to shape the back neck on the right side with a knit row.

Shape Back Neck:
Row 1: K33, cast off 16 stitches, K33. You will finish the left side then go back and repeat on the right.
Row 2: P31, P2T, turn your work.
Row 3: K2T, K30. Place these stitches on a stitch holder for 3needle bind off and cut your yarn leaving a 15cm or 12” length. If you wish to sew the shoulder seams instead, bind off all 31 stitches.
To complete the other shoulder, start at the neck edge from the purl side with Row 2.
Row 2: P2T, P31, turn your work.
Row 3: K30, K2T, place stitches on a holder as Row 3 above or bind off for sewn seams and put this piece aside.

Front: You will make two pieces, mirroring the instructions for the right side.
Left Front: Cast on 15 stitches.
Row 1: Knit all stitches.
Row 2: P to last stitch, M1, P1.
Row 3: K1, M1, K to end.
Rows 4 to 11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times. You will have increased a total of 10 stitches, 1 per row over ten rows. You should have 25 stitches on your needle and a nice curved bottom edge.
Row 12: P all stitches.
Row 13: Cast on 4 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches.

Your stitch count should now be 29. Work 44 rows of stocking stitch or until piece measures and you have completed a purl row. The sleeve increases will start on the right side on a knit row.

Sleeve increases:
Row 1: Cast on 12 stitches at the beginning of the row. K all stitches. 41 stitches on your needle.
Work another 14 rows of stocking stitch (15 rows total from sleeve first increase), ending with a knit row so you are ready to shape the front neck purl row.

Shape Left Front Neck:
Row 1: (Purl or wrong side of work), bind of 6 stitches at the beginning of the row. P34.
Row 2: (Knit or right side of work), K all stitches.
Row 3: P2T, P33.
Row 4: K all stitches.
Row 5: P2T, P32.
Row 6: K all stitches.
Row 7: P2T, P 31.
Row 8: K all stitches.
Row 9: P2T, P30. Your stitch count is 31 stitches to match your back shoulder.

Work stocking stitch straight until you have worked a total of 32 rows from the sleeve increase. Join the front to the back left side with a 3needle bind off here. To do this pick up the stitches from the back off of the holder onto a needle and bind them off together with a third needle or crochet hook. There are YouTube videos that can show you how if you need that instruction.
If you are sewing your shoulder seams, bind off the shoulder and put this piece aside with the back.

Right Front: Complete as the left side. Make sure that you reverse the increases and decreases to make a mirror of the left side.

Sew up the side seams and your cardigan is done except for the crochet edging that includes the buttonholes.

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

My New Gradient Cable Poncho Pattern, Half Price!

Iris Rose

Well, at long last I finished my gradient yarn poncho and, tada, I love it! You know that feeling that you get when you envision a project or fall in love with a pattern and yarn and just have to make it? And when it turns out exactly like your vision or the pattern, you just want to jump up and down and hug someone? That’s it; that is what I am actually feeling, woohoo!

Okay, okay, time to calm down already. I have published the pattern for my Gradient Cable Poncho, made in worsted weight yarn, on Ravelry and, for the next two months, I am offering it to my blog readers at fifty percent off. Use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout and enjoy! Half price for all my loyal readers and, if you pass it along, to your friends too. You do need to click through to Ravelry from my blog for this promotion. While you are on my blog site, have a look at all of the other free patterns that I have up there in cyberspace for you to use.

               

As a special bonus, because spring is coming and who doesn’t need another light and lovely shawl to keep those shoulders warm in the cool spring breeze, you can use the same coupon to purchase my Northern Rose Shawl pattern at half price. The pattern for this pretty shawl is written and charted and can be made in two sizes depending on the yarn that you choose. Have a look at the pattern details to see both a worsted weight and a sock weight version. Who doesn’t love to save money?

       

I have been busy with charity hats still and am about one third of the way through that box of yarn that I featured last week. Who knew that making hats is so addictive and great TV knitting? I am determined to switch up to crochet this weekend which will slow down the movie intake (I need to look at what I am doing when I crochet!) but, hopefully will sharpen up my skill set.

I have a couple of machine knit patterns in the works too, worked on a standard gauge machine, for anyone interested in that craft. I just have to decipher my notes, always a challenge! Keep watch here as they will be featured on my blog first.