Tag: pretty

Knitting

Machine Knitting and a Crochet Teaser.

Iris Rose

Wow, the week sure has flown by!  I have been busy with my knitting machine this week. 

These were made with self striping sock yarn with a little sacrificed cause I love matchy, matchy.

I have a bunch, okay a ton, no actually about a few hundred skeins of yarn from an ebay binge that I went on a couple of years ago.  You may have recognized the labels from my hat post two weeks ago.  I have to seriously purge my stash before it takes over the house and, as most of the yarn that I bought is sport or finer, the machine just called out to me!

The hat is lined for warmth!

I have had some problems in the past with static that these yarns hold.  I am not sure why but they are way more electric than any other yarn I have used.  It doesn’t seem to matter about the type of fibre.  I normally rewind the skeins into a cake for machine knitting to suss out any knots or imperfections before they hit the tension mast or the carriage and cause a major patterning fail.  Plus, it hurts like crazy when the weights hit your feet as the knitting drops off the needles!  I held a damp wash cloth in my hand and let the yarn run through it while tensioning and, voila, no static!  Why didn’t I think of this years ago??

I am working on a pattern for a toddler’s cardigan, machine knit, with a hand crocheted edge.  The sample turned out really cute, so I am experimenting with sizing now.  I always like to offer a pattern in multiple sizes and, although I know how to do the math from gauge for hand knits and crochet, machine knitting is a little different.  As the samples are quick to knit and can be added to my sales inventory, I am making one in each size to ensure that the pattern is correct.  It will be written out and on sale next week.

Samples ready for blocking and finishing.

I am also working on a hand knit version in worsted weight as I liked the machine knit one so much.  That pattern is going to take just a little bit longer.

I am also working on a crochet pattern for you.  I have a vision of a shawl that I have been cooking in my brain for the last ten months.  I made a sample over the summer but didn’t like it enough to finish it.  I have been mulling over the best stitch pattern to achieve the look that I want and have arrived at a winner I think.  I will let you know how it goes!  Here is a teaser.

Don’t forget about my half price offer on the Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns, coupon code 50OFF in my Ravelry store!

Knitting

Back to Reality and a Gift For You.

Iris Rose

Is everyone back to normal after the midwinter Christmas and New Year’s break?  It takes some doing doesn’t it, to get back into the routine of everyday living.

I was away for much of December on a (for me) trip of a life time.  I spent three weeks travelling New Zealand and Southeast Australia, a bucket list destination.  We had a wonderful time and had to be dragged, kicking and screaming, to the airport to come home!

It is now time for reality again and back to cold winter and awesome crocheted and knit accessories and sweaters.  As promised, I have been working my tail off to finish (or rather refinish) the poncho that I started in the fall.  I am happy to say that it came off the needles yesterday and I completed the sewing up last night ready to block.  I am really, really happy with the resulting garment and will be posting the pattern in the next week.  In the meantime, here is a glimpse of the detail on the front and back and a picture of the yarn that I used, purchased at Stash Lounge in Calgary.

                            

I need to get to work next on that crocheted wrap that I promised you as well.  I had almost completed a sample in October but was unhappy with the look; it just wasn’t what I envisioned.  Too bad that you can’t take a picture from your brain and make it real.  Anyway, I have rethought the process and I think that I now have an idea of how I want to put it together.  Hopefully it will be a reality before the end of the month!

Crocheting was my first love and, even though knitting seems to have taken over, I enjoy the more three-dimensional process of hook and yarn.  I am using an ordinary acrylic (Loops and Threads) from Michaels to create something that, if my vision doesn’t get ahead of my craft again, will be extraordinary.  I am excited about this project!

This crocheted little kid’s cardigan is a paid pattern in my Ravelry store but, as it has been such a long time since I published my last new free pattern, here is gift for you:

Worked top down, this little cardigan is light and lacey.  It looks great on its own or with a long sleeved T underneath.  Pair it with leggings or jeans to make your little princess look dressed up while you know that she is comfortable.

Sizes: 12 months, 18/24 months, 2/3 years

Materials:

Red Heart Soft or equivalent worsted weight yarn: 175 m/195 yds white, 225 m/250 yds contrasting colour, 5mm crochet hook, four small buttons to match, large eyed needle for sewing in ends.

Abbreviations:    sc = single crochet               dc = double crochet

tc = treble crochet

 

Gauge: (Blocked) 4 sc or 4 dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch, 2rows dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch

Custer Stitch: wrap yarn around hook once to begin a double crochet, work into stitch below and draw up a loop, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops only.  Wrap yarn again and draw a loop through the same stitch, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops. Repeat this again and then wrap yarn and pull through all four loops on hook.

Begin cardigan at neck edge:

With white, ch 49, (61, 73)

Row 1: sc in each ch starting at 2nd ch from hook. 48, (60, 72) sc

Row 2: sc 7, (9, 11), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 16, (18, 20), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 7, (9, 11), ch 1 and turn. 56, (68, 80) sc

Row 3: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn. Repeat this row for 2nd and 3rd size.

Row 4: sc 8, (10, 13), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 18, (20, 22), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), ch 2 and turn. 64, (76, 88) sc

Row 5: dc 9, (11, 13), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 20, (22, 24), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 9, (11, 13), ch 2 and turn. 72, (84, 96) dc

Row 6: dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 20, (24, 26), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), ch 2 and turn. 80, (92, 104) dc

Row 7: dc 11, (13, 15), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 24, (26, 28), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 11, (13, 15), ch 2 and turn. 88, (100, 112) dc

Row 8: Change to contrast colour, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * working cluster and ch 1 in extra dc at sleeve increases to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. 42, (50, 58) clusters

Row 9: Change to white, ch3, slip st in 1st chain 1 space, (ch3, slip st) in each ch1 space to end, ch3 and slip st to last dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 10: dc 2 in each ch 3 space to end, dc in slip st, fasten off.  Bodice is complete.

Row 11: Change to contrast colour, ch 2, dc in each dc across front to sleeve corner = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across back to sleeve corner = 28, (30, 32) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across front = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 12: dc in each dc across front, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across back, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across front, ch 2 and turn.

Row 13: dc 18, (20, 22), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 32, (34, 36), 3 dc in ext dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 18, (20, 22), ch 2 and turn.

Row 14: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 15: dc 19, (21, 23) 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 34, (36, 38), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 19, (21, 23) ch2 and turn.

Row 16: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 17: dc 20, (22, 24), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 36, (38, 40), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 20, (22, 24), ch2 and turn.

Row 18: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 19: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 20: Change to white, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 21: ch 3, sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3 repeat * to * to last st, sc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 22: dc in 1st dc, * cluster st in next ch3 space, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 23: Change to contrast colour, ch 2 and dc in 1st st, 3 dc in each ch 1 space across to last 2 dc, dc in each st, ch 3 and turn.

Row 24: tc in next dc, 2 tc in next dc repeat from * to * to end, ch3 and turn.

Row 25: tc in each tc across, ch 1 and turn.

Row 26: sc in 1st st, skip next 2 tc, (dc, ch 1 four times, dc into next tc), skip next 2 tc, sc in next tc, repeat * to * to end, sc in last st. Do not fasten off.

Right front edge:

Row 1: sc 44 evenly along right front edge, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 5 sc *, repeat * to * 3 times more, (this makes your buttonholes) sc in each remaining sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc working 1 sc in each ch 2 space. Fasten off.

Left front edge:

Row 1: join contrast colour at neck edge of right side and work 44 sc evenly along edge, ch1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc, fasten off.

Neck edge:

Row 1: join white at edge of front band, ch 1 and sc in first st, sc in each sc to sleeve start, skip 1 sc and sc across sleeve to corner, skip 1 sc and continue across, skipping 1 sc at each edge of second sleeve, ch 1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, skipping 1 sc at sleeve corners, fasten off.

Sleeve edge:

Row 1: join white at right side edge of white, sc across, ch1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, fasten off.

Repeat these two rows on second sleeve edge.

Weave in ends and block lightly.

Sew buttons to left front edge to match buttonholes on right.

Knitting

The 3F’s of Project Mangement

Iris Rose

Every couple of months (okay six months, okay, okay, every year or two) I find myself surrounded by unfinished projects that I have started, in some cases, who knows why, and really have the urge to clean up.  This usually happens when I can’t find a single available 5mm needle when I know that I have several or when I can’t see my table top.  Sometimes the avalanche when I open the closet door is an incentive as well.

When any of these things happen, and sometimes all of them happen at once, I have a 3F day or maybe two days, okay a week.  Finish, frog, or fro out.  I know that fro is not used this way but I like the rhyme.  It also reminds me of two year olds cleaning up and right before the tantrum which describes me to a tee on 3F day.

Finish is, of course, the best action for an almost complete project.  Projects do not go in the finish pile if: they are ugly and will never fit anyone and that’s why they are not finished, they are so old that the style has already come and gone a second time so waiting another forty years is just foolish, or I just plain hate working with the yarn in question.  Anything that is not in one of the categories above is placed into a bin.  Every time I want to start a new project (which is every minute of every day) I force myself to finish one from the bin.  This method works most of time although once in a while I change the finish status of the UFO to frog just so that I can start something new!  The only one who really cares is me and I like crafting too much to work on something I hate.

Frog is next on the to do list.  All of the projects that I can’t bring myself to finish are set aside so that I can rip out, rewind and reuse the yarn.  This goes for the too old if the yarn is still nice, the ugly and will never fit anyone, again if the yarn is still nice and the I hate working with the yarn if it is because the yarn didn’t suit the pattern.  Maybe it just needs a larger or smaller needle or hook or to be paired with a contrast to dilute the impact.  I usually set aside an evening or two to accomplish restashing these never to be finished projects.

Fro is a hard one.  I, like any yarnie worth their salt, hate to throw away “good yarn” but have learned the hard way (remember I mentioned an avalanche?) that you just can’t keep everything.  Try throwing away a truly unlikeable project that you know you will never finish made with yarn that you will never like.  It is freeing in a way that you can’t imagine!  I have reached the point now where, when I look through my stash and wonder why I ever kept all of those ten metre or less pieces or even those part skeins of so-so yarn, I can gather them up and put them in the garbage can.  Yes, (and I can hear the response to wasting yarn) it is great to donate to charity groups but, if the yarn is too old or really awful to work with, why inflict it on someone else to work with or wear.

Get over the guilt and try your own purge and you will find that you may have some really lovely finished things, some really lovely recycled yarn and a great big space where all of the uglies lived!

New pattern alert: I have published a paid cardigan pattern on Ravelry this week.  It is lace and stocking stitch in multiple sizes.  Have a look!   http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/roses-and-lace-cardigan

Knitting

Another Cake Shawl

Iris Rose

This pattern was knit with one cake of Caron Cakes yarn.  The pattern, as written, takes advantage of the long colour changes and (here is a caution) may need to be adjusted by a row or two if the colour changes don’t match the cake that I used.  I have found that most of the cakes have similar starting points and the pattern, as is, will be close to what you have.  I have added notes to make the differences easier to manage.

The shawl has eight different designs in lace or textured stitches to showcase your knitting skills.  None of the patterns are difficult but you will start with a basic stitch and become more challenged by the design at each change.

Size: 163cm x 74cm or 64″ x 29″ blocked

Tools: 6mm or US 10 circular needle, 60cm (24″) or longer to hold all of the stitches when you reach the final rows, two stitch markers (more if you like to marker each pattern repeat), tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Materials: one cake of Caron Cakes yarn or the equivalent number of metres or yards (350m or 384 yds) in any worsted weight yarn.

Gauge: 14 stitches x 24 rows in garter stitch, lightly blocked. Gauge is not critical as this is a shawl but if you want to have a similar finished size you need to swatch.

Abbreviations:           K = knit                                           P = purl

YO = yarn over                               K2tog = knit two stitches together

Note: The first two and last two stitches of the row are always worked the same way.  You can place stitch markers at these points if you need to be reminded when you reach the end of the row.  The first stitch is always slipped purlwise with the yarn in front.  The second stitch is knit with the yarn wrapped over to make the stitch.  The second to last stitch is knit and the last stitch is knit with both the slipped stitch and the yarn over together.  This will make a pretty braid like edging to the top edge and one long side of your triangle.

Another Note: The side of your work with the yarn over near the beginning of the row is the wrong side.  The yarn over feature will form the top edge of your shawl with the pretty braid.

Shawl, Garter Section: Cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: K all stitches

Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, place marker, K to last two stitches, place marker, K2.

Row 3 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, place marker, K to last three stitches, place marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, k to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach the end of your first colour.  You should have 64 to 70 rows of garter stitch and need to be on the right side (no YO) to start the next section.  The exact number of rows of garter stitch is not important but you can count the ridges and multiply by two if you want to make notes as you go.  If you have some of the first colour left (not enough for two rows of garter stitch), start the next section with the old colour and let the transition fall where ever it lands.

Mesh Lace Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (YO, K2tog), repeat * to * to the marker at the last marker, slip marker, K2.  You may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.

Row 2 (wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, slip marker, (K2tog, YO), repeat * to * to the last marker, slip marker, K2.  Again, you may have an odd number of stitches left which you can knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side until they can be worked into the pattern.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, k1, YO, slip marker, P to the last marker, slip marker and K last two stitches.

Repeat Rows 1 to 4 until you reach the end of this colour making sure that you still have enough yarn to work the last wrong side row and you start the next colour on the right side (no YO at the beginning).  You don’t need to worry about completing all four rows of the lace as long as you end by completing either row 2 or 4.

Work two rows of stocking stitch with the new colour or a combination of the old and new colour if the change comes in the middle of a row.

Zigzag Stitch Section: make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1 (right side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.   On every right side row, if you don’t have enough stitches to complete the ten stitch pattern, knit the remaining stitches and work them into the pattern as the total stitch count increases.

Row 2(wrong side): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.

Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 8: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K1, P1, slip marker K2.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 10: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P3, slip marker K2.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P5, slip marker K2.

Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K6, P2, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 14: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P until you reach the first stitch that looks knit from the wrong side, P that stitch, (K2, P8) to last pattern repeat, K2, P7, slip marker K2.

Row 15: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K8, P2), repeat * to * across to the last marker, slip marker, K3 .

Repeat these 15 rows or repeat as many as you can until the next colour change.  You will end working on a wrong side row to start the next section.  If your colour change is going to be in the middle of the next row, that’s okay as this will be a transition row between the two stitch patterns.

Next Row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Garter Rib Section: Make sure that you are starting on the right side.

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, P2) across to the last marker, slip marker, K3.  If you have extra stitches, work them in knit until you have increased enough to work another pattern repeat.

Row 2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, K2.

Repeat these two rows until you reach the next colour change.  You need to end on Row 2 so that your next row is worked on the right side.  If your colour change is going to happen part way through the next repeat, stop now and go to the next section.

Modified Leaf Lace Section:

Rows 1 to 4: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual.  Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, K3, S2K1P2SSO, K3, YO, K1), repeat * to * across to the last marker, working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 6: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 7: repeat Row 5.

Row 8: repeat Row 6.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K1, YO, K2, S2K1P2SSO, K2, YO, K2), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 10: repeat Row 6.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, YO, K1, S2K1P2SSO, K1, YO, K3), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stiches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: repeat Row 6.

Row 13: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K3, YO, S2K1P2SSO, YO, K4), repeat * to * across working a K2tog instead of the centered decrease if you can’t complete the whole lace sequence. Work remaining stitches in knit to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Rows 14 to 17: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual.  Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Repeat Rows 5 to 17 one more time.  Your next colour change should happen in the four garter rows at the end of the second pattern repeat.

Double Seed or Moss Stitch Section:

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2, P2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row2: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2.  (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (P2, K2) across to last marker, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, K the knit stitches as they are facing you and P the purl stitches across to last marker, slip marker, K2.  (knit the V’s and purl the bumps).

Repeat Rows 1 to 4 four more times.  Your next colour change should come in the last one or two rows that you work.  If you have a small amount to use before the next change, go on to the next section.

Diagonal Lace Section:

Row 1: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 2 and every even numbered row: (wrong side) slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K1, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 5: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K2, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 7: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K3, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 9: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K4, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 11: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, K5, (YO, SSK, K3), repeat * to * across to last marker, knitting any remaining stitches that can’t be worked in pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 12: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Repeat Rows 1 to 12 once more.  You should have reached the next colour change.  If not, continue with the diagonal lace pattern until you can finish with a wrong side row so the you start the next pattern on the right side.  If you reach the colour change before you complete the second repeat, just go on to the next section as long as can start with a right side row.

Feather and Fan or Old Shale Lace:

Row 1 and 2: Work the border stitches before and after the markers as usual.  Knit all stitches in between the markers.

Row 3: (right side) slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1, slip marker, (K2tog twice, (YO, K1) four times, K2tog twice). Repeat across to last marker, knitting any extra stitches at the end that can’t be worked into the pattern, slip marker, K3.

Row 4: slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, K1, YO, slip marker, P to last marker, slip marker, K2.

Repeat these four rows twice more.  You need to leave enough yarn to cast off with so you might only have two repeats and cast off after Row 2 of the third repeat.  Cast off loosely.  Weave in your ends, block and you are done!

Knitting

Machine Knitting a Wrap

Iris Rose

As much as I love to hand knit and crochet, there is always a place in my heart for machine knitting.

It seems as though the common feeling about machine knitting is that it is a form of cheating.  Most will imply that the process that produces beautiful knits must be hand done to be a skill that is worth having; it is too easy.  Tell that to the beginner that has dropped all of the work off of the machine for the eighth time and can’t figure out why!  It also happens to those of us with experience too.

Yes, machine knitting is fast but it also is a process, like hand knitting and crocheting, that can be enjoyed for the art as well as the finished product.  If you take your time and hand manipulate your stitches there is a real satisfaction that you have produced a unique and wearable piece.  Even using the pattern cards that are set for you, there is still the required knowledge of how a piece is constructed and shaped that you need to master.  You need to visualize how the pattern will fit the article that you are making; you need to understand your tools as well as how your machine works.

I always read any forum post that I can that concerns machine knitting.  I have used a machine for many years and am always happy to learn a new technique that will advance my skill level.  I read on the Knitting Paradise forum section on machine knitting (Knitting Paradise is a great resource and general fun to read webpage) about a wrap that was made by hand manipulating needles in and out of work to produce a “swiss cheese” fabric.  The forum post linked to a Youtube video that demonstrated a scarf pattern right down to the hand crocheted edging.  Here is the wrap before and after blocking.

                            

I was intrigued and, even though I hadn’t used my machine for a couple of years, I set it up, cleaned it up, and went to work.  I made the scarf into a wrap by increasing the number of sets of stitches worked and making it longer.  The technique is pretty easy to master as long as you don’t get distracted.  I ended up ripping back a few times but overall I am pretty happy with the way my wrap turned out.

Here is a link to the video; it is subtitled in another language and no voice on the audio but is easy to follow.  Ideally, have a tablet or laptop by your machine and review the video if you get stuck.  I ran back to my computer to check a couple of times so having the video close by would have helped.  Once I got past the first pattern repeat it was smooth sailing, until I dropped a couple of stitches, (insert salty language here)!

The finished wrap didn’t look like much when I took it off of the machine but with blocking it turned out to be a beautiful and very wearable work of art.

In my next post, I will be sharing a new free pattern!