Knitting

Making a Yarn Over at the Beginning of a Row and the Delphinium Scarf Pattern

               

 

I made this pretty scarf/shawl to use a skein of skein of Red Heart Super Saver that I bought on a whim.  I liked the colour; what can I say, blue is right after green as my favourite hue. I used an antique lace edging and worked the whole thing sideways with short row shaping so that it curves nicely to stay on your shoulders.

Seed or moss stitch is a great way to hide those wraps on the short rows.  The scarf is reversible which is another plus.

The pattern is free and includes a photo tutorial on how to make the yarn overs at the beginning of a knit row which is a really nice edging on any project.

From the picture, the pattern looks complicated but it really isn’t.  The lace and main body knit together makes for a scarf that is easy to adjust in length and avoids the stress of joining the two pieces later.

When you are done, you are done, except the ends and blocking of course.  This knit has a lot going on so please read through the pattern before you cast on.

I hope that you enjoy my pattern and that you will post a photo if you decide to make it.

Delphinium Shoulder Scarf

Materials: Worsted weight yarn, 200 metres or 225 yards, 5.5mm or US 9 needles, one pair single points or one circular, a stitch marker

Gauge: not really important but I knit at 5 stitches to 2.5cm or 1 inch. My scarf is 127cm or 50″ by 28cm or 11″.

Abbreviations:

K = knit

P = purl

St = stitch

K2Tog = knit the next 2 stitches together

P2Tog = purl the next two stitches together

K3Tog = knit the next 3 stitches together

YO = yarn over

M1 = lift the bar between two stitches and place it on left hand needle, knit or purl through the back of the stitch to twist the stitch and prevent a hole.

W&T = wrap and turn, slip the next st onto the right hand needle, move yarn around the slipped stitch to the front, slip the stitch back onto the left hand needle, turn your work.

 

Seed Stitch:

R1: K1, P1 across. This is the neck edge and will always start with a knit stitch.

R2: P1, K1 across if the stitch count is even, if not then purl the knits and knit the purls as they are facing you.  I will note whether to start with a knit or purl in the instructions for each row. All even rows will end with a knit stitch.

 

Lace Edging: 16 Rows, stitch counts are for the lace edge only and do not include the seed stitch portion.

R1: K2, YO, K2Tog, K4, YO, K3Tog, (K1, YO) twice, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 18 st.

R2: YO, K2Tog, K to marker. All even rows are knit the same so will not be written out again. I have included a photo tutorial at the end of the instructions for YO at the beginning of a row. Even rows end at R16.

R3: K7, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K3, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 19 st.

R5: K2, YO, K2Tog, K2, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K5, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 20 St.

R7: K5, YO, K3Tog, K1, YO, K7, YO, K2Tog, YO, K2 = 21 st.

R9: K2, YO, K2Tog, K8, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 20 st.

R11: K11, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 19 st.

R13: K2, YO, K2Tog, K6, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 18 st.

R15: K9, YO, K3Tog, K1, (YO, K2Tog) twice, K1 = 17 st.

R16: repeat row 2.

 

Scarf Instructions: I have divided the instructions into five parts, increase, straight, short rows, straight, and decrease. The straight part will be repeated on both sides of the short row section.

 

Increase Part: In this part you will be making a stitch (M1) on the seed stitch side of the marker at R2, R6, R10, and R14.  You will repeat this part four times and end up with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section. Stitch counts at the end on the row are for the first repeat; the second, third, and fourth repeats are in brackets.

 Cast on 20 stitches and knit 1 row.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 3 stitches. Place a marker that will stay as a divider between the lace and seed stitch for the whole project. Continue after marker with R1 of the lace edging.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, M1 in purl, K1, P1 to end = 4 st (8, 12, 16) after marker.

R3: Seed stitch over first 4 st, bring yarn to the back, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work even row of lace, slip marker, start with a purl and seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch over first 4 st, bring yarn to the back, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in knit, P1, K1 to end = 5 st (9, 13, 17) after marker.

R7: Seed stitch over first 5 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work even row of lace, slip marker, K1, P1, to end.

R9: Seed stitch over first 5 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in purl, K1, P1 to end = 6 st (10, 14, 18) after marker.

R11: Work seed stitch over first 6 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work even row of lace, slip marker, P1, K1 to end.

R13: Work seed stitch over first 6 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R14: Work even row of lace, slip marker, M1 in knit, P1 K1 to end = 7 st (11, 15, 19) after marker.

R15: Work seed stitch over first 7 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work even row of lace, slip marker, K1, P1 to end.

Repeat the increase part three more times.  You will have 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and 4 lace repeats.

 

Straight Part: In this part, you will continue with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and the lace edging as written. Every row of the seed stitch section will start with a knit stitch.  You can relax and not worry about changes for two whole repeats.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R3: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R7: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R9: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R11: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R13: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R15: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

 

Repeat this part one more time for two repeats of the straight part.  At this point you will have a total of six repeats of the lace edging and 19 st in seed stitch.  If you are not sure, count the points as each repeat creates one point of edging.

 

Short Row Part: In this part you will creating the curve at the neck edge of your scarf.  You will still maintain 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and work the lace as you have been.  All of the short rows are in the seed stitch section so no need to worry about changing the lace rows.

R1: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 7 st, W&T.

R3: Starting with a knit stitch, work 7 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 7 st, pick up wrap and purl 8th st, seed stitch to end.

R5: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 15 st, W&T.

R7: Starting with a knit stitch, work 15 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 15 st, pick up wrap and purl 16th st, seed stitch to end.

R9: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 15 st, W&T.

R11: Starting with a knit stitch, work 15 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 15 st, pick up wrap and purl 16th st, seed stitch to end.

R13: Work first 19 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, seed stitch over first 7 st, W&T.

R15: Starting with a knit stitch, work 7 st in seed stitch, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch for first 7 st, pick up wrap and purl 8th st, seed stitch to end.

You will repeat the short row part five more times for a total of six short row repeats.  It takes a little concentration but the end result is worth the little extra thought while you are knitting.  At this point you will have a grand total of twelve repeats of the lace edging and you are two thirds of the way to done.  It is smooth sailing from here.

 

Straight Part: In this part, you will continue with 19 stitches in the seed stitch section and the lace edging as written. Every row of the seed stitch section will start with a knit stitch.  You can relax and not worry about changes for two whole repeats.

R1: Starting with a knit stitch, seed stitch over the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R3: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R5: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R7: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R9: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R11: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R13: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

R15: Seed stitch first 19 st, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, work seed stitch to end.

Repeat this part one more time for two repeats of the straight part.  At this point you will have a total of fourteen repeats of the lace edging and 19 st in seed stitch.  If you are not sure, count the points as each repeat creates one point of edging.  Only one part and four more repeats of lace to go.

 

Decrease Part: In this part you will shape the end of your scarf to match the beginning.  You start out with 19 st in the seed stitch section and, after four repeats, you will end up at three stitches in seed stitch.  All decreases are worked between the lace and seed stitch and follow right after slipping the marker.  The lace edging remains as written throughout this part as well so no confusion there. Seed stitch counts are for the first repeat only, the second, third and fourth repeat counts are in brackets.

Note: A decrease is made by working two stitches together.  You should always work K2Tog or P2Tog to match the second stitch of the stitches being worked together so that your seed stitch pattern remains correct.

R1: Work seed stitch for the first 19 st, slip marker, work R1 of lace.

R2: Work R2 of lace, slip marker, P2Tog, seed stitch to end, 18 st (14, 10, 6) after marker.

R3: Work seed stitch st, slip marker, work R3 of lace.

R4: Work R4 of lace, slip marker, start with a purl st and seed stitch to end.

R5: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R5 of lace.

R6: Work R6 of lace, slip marker, K2Tog, seed stitch to end, 17 st (13, 9, 5) after marker.

R7: Work seed, slip marker, work R7 of lace.

R8: Work R8 of lace, slip marker, start with a knit st and seed stitch to end.

R9: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R9 of lace.

R10: Work R10 of lace, slip marker, P2Tog, seed stitch to end, 16 st (12, 8, 4) after marker.

R11: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R11 of lace.

R12: Work R12 of lace, slip marker, start with a purl st and seed stitch to end.

R13: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R13 of lace.

R14: Work R14 of lace, slip marker, K2Tog, seed stitch to end. 15 st (11, 7, 3) after marker.

R15: Work seed stitch, slip marker, work R15 of lace.

R16: Work R16 of lace, slip marker, start with a knit st and seed stitch to end.

Repeat this part three more times for a total of four repeats of the Decrease Part.  Each repeat decreases four stitches in the seed stitch section.  After four repeats you should have 3 seed stitches and 17 lace edging stitches.  Cast off.

 

You will have 18 lace points when you are finished.  Weave in your ends and block your pretty new scarf.

 

How to make a yarn over at the beginning of a row:

Start with your yarn over instead of under your right hand needle.

 

Slide your right hand needle through the first two stitches on your left hand needle for knit two together.

Wrap your yarn over top of the right hand needle and around to make a stitch.

Pull the yarn through to complete your knit two together.  You can see that the yarn that came over the right hand needle makes a stitch.

Here you can more clearly see that the yarn over, knit two together at the beginning of a row results in two stitches on the right hand needle when you are finished.

 

Here you see the final result; a pretty loop edge to your garter rows.

 

 

Knitting

Little Lovely Lacey Cardigan

A friend loved my adult cardigan and really wanted to make it for her grandkids so the little version was born.

I included sizes 1/2 to 8 in the pattern as I really think that it will look pretty on kids from toddler to big girl. It is a fairly easy make if you know how to both knit and crochet as I used only basic stitches; stocking stitch for the knit part and crochet stitches from chain to treble crochet.

I had so much fun knitting and crocheting this little version of my adult pattern.  Thanks for looking in and enjoy the pattern now available here.

Sizes: Girls 1/2, 3/4, 5, 6, 8.  Chest measurements when cardigan is closed with 5cm or 2″ of positive ease: 51, (56, 61, 66, 72)cm or 20, (22, 24, 26, 28)”.

Materials: 425 to 675m or 470 to 750 yds of DK weight yarn.  I used washable wool but this cardigan would be nice made with any soft yarn including cotton.

Tools: 4.5mm, US 7 knitting needles, 4.0mm, US G/6 crochet hook, removable stitch marker, large tapestry needle, 3, (3, 5, 6, 6) buttons, optional stitch holder.

Gauge:  Knit: 22 stitches x 32 rows = 10cm or 4″

Crochet: 13 (ch1, dc) x 11 rows = 10cm or 4″

Abbreviations:

Knit:   K= knit

P = purl

K2tog = knit 2 stitches together

Crochet:  ch = chain

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

tr = treble crochet