Tag: worsted

Travel

Weekend Off and My Dream Machine

Iris Rose

I got a little sidetracked this week. My computer crashed at work and DH has been really wonderful about getting me up and running again but was using my home desk and monitor for the work. He is all done now so this is better late than never!

We spent the weekend, a wonderful weekend by the way, at Nakiska, a ski resort in Kananaskis here in the Alberta Rockies. The weather was great, cold and sunny, perfect for skiing. I don’t ski; I know how but hate the feeling of sliding down a steep hill so DH skied to his heart’s content and I did what I love best, crafting with a little hot tub time thrown in. We do really live in a spectacular country, so scenic and friendly too!

         

I worked on my mystery crochet pattern. It is almost done and would have been if not for the computer crash and other life distractions. I seem to be on a better late than never trend, don’t I? I did finish the basic piece, however and just need to complete the embellishments. I can’t wait to see if the reality matches my imagination.

While we were away, I spotted an ad for a used knitting machine that I have been lusting after since I first saw this beauty in the early 90’s. I bought myself a little used and in great shape Singer 580 with all of the bells and whistles for a great bargain price. I am one happy lady! I just need to finish up the cleaning (only the ribber to go) and I will be digging into my cone yarn stash.

In order to fit everything new into my tiny craft room (6’ x 9’), I did a major cleanup and rearranging. I really have got too much stuff and I mean that in a big way. I have managed to stick to my no new yarn policy for two and a half months and have made some inroads but not enough by any stretch on the imagination. I just need to craft faster or sleep less!

         

Don’t forget about my 50OFF coupon code for my Gradient Cable Poncho, which will look good in any worsted yarn and for my Northern Rose Shawl patterns, knit in worsted or sock yarn, that you can use for both of the patterns at half price in my Ravelry store.

Yarn, Knitting and Crochet

My New Gradient Cable Poncho Pattern, Half Price!

Iris Rose

Well, at long last I finished my gradient yarn poncho and, tada, I love it! You know that feeling that you get when you envision a project or fall in love with a pattern and yarn and just have to make it? And when it turns out exactly like your vision or the pattern, you just want to jump up and down and hug someone? That’s it; that is what I am actually feeling, woohoo!

Okay, okay, time to calm down already. I have published the pattern for my Gradient Cable Poncho, made in worsted weight yarn, on Ravelry and, for the next two months, I am offering it to my blog readers at fifty percent off. Use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout and enjoy! Half price for all my loyal readers and, if you pass it along, to your friends too. You do need to click through to Ravelry from my blog for this promotion. While you are on my blog site, have a look at all of the other free patterns that I have up there in cyberspace for you to use.

               

As a special bonus, because spring is coming and who doesn’t need another light and lovely shawl to keep those shoulders warm in the cool spring breeze, you can use the same coupon to purchase my Northern Rose Shawl pattern at half price. The pattern for this pretty shawl is written and charted and can be made in two sizes depending on the yarn that you choose. Have a look at the pattern details to see both a worsted weight and a sock weight version. Who doesn’t love to save money?

       

I have been busy with charity hats still and am about one third of the way through that box of yarn that I featured last week. Who knew that making hats is so addictive and great TV knitting? I am determined to switch up to crochet this weekend which will slow down the movie intake (I need to look at what I am doing when I crochet!) but, hopefully will sharpen up my skill set.

I have a couple of machine knit patterns in the works too, worked on a standard gauge machine, for anyone interested in that craft. I just have to decipher my notes, always a challenge! Keep watch here as they will be featured on my blog first.

Knitting

Back to Reality and a Gift For You.

Iris Rose

Is everyone back to normal after the midwinter Christmas and New Year’s break?  It takes some doing doesn’t it, to get back into the routine of everyday living.

I was away for much of December on a (for me) trip of a life time.  I spent three weeks travelling New Zealand and Southeast Australia, a bucket list destination.  We had a wonderful time and had to be dragged, kicking and screaming, to the airport to come home!

It is now time for reality again and back to cold winter and awesome crocheted and knit accessories and sweaters.  As promised, I have been working my tail off to finish (or rather refinish) the poncho that I started in the fall.  I am happy to say that it came off the needles yesterday and I completed the sewing up last night ready to block.  I am really, really happy with the resulting garment and will be posting the pattern in the next week.  In the meantime, here is a glimpse of the detail on the front and back and a picture of the yarn that I used, purchased at Stash Lounge in Calgary.

                            

I need to get to work next on that crocheted wrap that I promised you as well.  I had almost completed a sample in October but was unhappy with the look; it just wasn’t what I envisioned.  Too bad that you can’t take a picture from your brain and make it real.  Anyway, I have rethought the process and I think that I now have an idea of how I want to put it together.  Hopefully it will be a reality before the end of the month!

Crocheting was my first love and, even though knitting seems to have taken over, I enjoy the more three-dimensional process of hook and yarn.  I am using an ordinary acrylic (Loops and Threads) from Michaels to create something that, if my vision doesn’t get ahead of my craft again, will be extraordinary.  I am excited about this project!

This crocheted little kid’s cardigan is a paid pattern in my Ravelry store but, as it has been such a long time since I published my last new free pattern, here is gift for you:

Worked top down, this little cardigan is light and lacey.  It looks great on its own or with a long sleeved T underneath.  Pair it with leggings or jeans to make your little princess look dressed up while you know that she is comfortable.

Sizes: 12 months, 18/24 months, 2/3 years

Materials:

Red Heart Soft or equivalent worsted weight yarn: 175 m/195 yds white, 225 m/250 yds contrasting colour, 5mm crochet hook, four small buttons to match, large eyed needle for sewing in ends.

Abbreviations:    sc = single crochet               dc = double crochet

tc = treble crochet

 

Gauge: (Blocked) 4 sc or 4 dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch, 2rows dc = 2.5 cm or 1 inch

Custer Stitch: wrap yarn around hook once to begin a double crochet, work into stitch below and draw up a loop, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops only.  Wrap yarn again and draw a loop through the same stitch, wrap yarn and pull through first two loops. Repeat this again and then wrap yarn and pull through all four loops on hook.

Begin cardigan at neck edge:

With white, ch 49, (61, 73)

Row 1: sc in each ch starting at 2nd ch from hook. 48, (60, 72) sc

Row 2: sc 7, (9, 11), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 16, (18, 20), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 6, (8, 10), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 7, (9, 11), ch 1 and turn. 56, (68, 80) sc

Row 3: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn. Repeat this row for 2nd and 3rd size.

Row 4: sc 8, (10, 13), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 18, (20, 22), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), 2 sc in next sc twice, sc 8, (10, 12), ch 2 and turn. 64, (76, 88) sc

Row 5: dc 9, (11, 13), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 20, (22, 24), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next sc twice, dc 9, (11, 13), ch 2 and turn. 72, (84, 96) dc

Row 6: dc 10, (12, 14), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 20, (24, 26), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 12, (14, 16), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 10, (12, 14), ch 2 and turn. 80, (92, 104) dc

Row 7: dc 11, (13, 15), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 24, (26, 28), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 14, (16, 18), 2 dc in next dc twice, dc 11, (13, 15), ch 2 and turn. 88, (100, 112) dc

Row 8: Change to contrast colour, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * working cluster and ch 1 in extra dc at sleeve increases to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc. 42, (50, 58) clusters

Row 9: Change to white, ch3, slip st in 1st chain 1 space, (ch3, slip st) in each ch1 space to end, ch3 and slip st to last dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 10: dc 2 in each ch 3 space to end, dc in slip st, fasten off.  Bodice is complete.

Row 11: Change to contrast colour, ch 2, dc in each dc across front to sleeve corner = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across back to sleeve corner = 28, (30, 32) dc, ch 5, dc in each dc across front = 16, (18, 20) dc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 12: dc in each dc across front, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across back, dc in each of 5 ch, dc in each dc across front, ch 2 and turn.

Row 13: dc 18, (20, 22), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 32, (34, 36), 3 dc in ext dc, centre dc of ch 5, dc 18, (20, 22), ch 2 and turn.

Row 14: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 15: dc 19, (21, 23) 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 34, (36, 38), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 19, (21, 23) ch2 and turn.

Row 16: dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 17: dc 20, (22, 24), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 36, (38, 40), 3 dc in next dc, centre dc of 3 dc in 1, dc 20, (22, 24), ch2 and turn.

Row 18: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 19: (2nd and 3rd size only) dc in each dc across, ch 2 and turn.

Row 20: Change to white, dc in 1st dc, * skip next dc, cluster st in next dc, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 21: ch 3, sc in next ch 1 space, ch 3 repeat * to * to last st, sc, ch 2 and turn.

Row 22: dc in 1st dc, * cluster st in next ch3 space, ch 1*, repeat * to * to last 2 dc, dc in last 2 dc.

Row 23: Change to contrast colour, ch 2 and dc in 1st st, 3 dc in each ch 1 space across to last 2 dc, dc in each st, ch 3 and turn.

Row 24: tc in next dc, 2 tc in next dc repeat from * to * to end, ch3 and turn.

Row 25: tc in each tc across, ch 1 and turn.

Row 26: sc in 1st st, skip next 2 tc, (dc, ch 1 four times, dc into next tc), skip next 2 tc, sc in next tc, repeat * to * to end, sc in last st. Do not fasten off.

Right front edge:

Row 1: sc 44 evenly along right front edge, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 5 sc *, repeat * to * 3 times more, (this makes your buttonholes) sc in each remaining sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc working 1 sc in each ch 2 space. Fasten off.

Left front edge:

Row 1: join contrast colour at neck edge of right side and work 44 sc evenly along edge, ch1 and turn.

Row 2: sc in each sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: sc in each sc, fasten off.

Neck edge:

Row 1: join white at edge of front band, ch 1 and sc in first st, sc in each sc to sleeve start, skip 1 sc and sc across sleeve to corner, skip 1 sc and continue across, skipping 1 sc at each edge of second sleeve, ch 1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, skipping 1 sc at sleeve corners, fasten off.

Sleeve edge:

Row 1: join white at right side edge of white, sc across, ch1 but do not turn.

Row 2: crab st or backwards sc across, fasten off.

Repeat these two rows on second sleeve edge.

Weave in ends and block lightly.

Sew buttons to left front edge to match buttonholes on right.

Knitting

The 3F’s of Project Mangement

Iris Rose

Every couple of months (okay six months, okay, okay, every year or two) I find myself surrounded by unfinished projects that I have started, in some cases, who knows why, and really have the urge to clean up.  This usually happens when I can’t find a single available 5mm needle when I know that I have several or when I can’t see my table top.  Sometimes the avalanche when I open the closet door is an incentive as well.

When any of these things happen, and sometimes all of them happen at once, I have a 3F day or maybe two days, okay a week.  Finish, frog, or fro out.  I know that fro is not used this way but I like the rhyme.  It also reminds me of two year olds cleaning up and right before the tantrum which describes me to a tee on 3F day.

Finish is, of course, the best action for an almost complete project.  Projects do not go in the finish pile if: they are ugly and will never fit anyone and that’s why they are not finished, they are so old that the style has already come and gone a second time so waiting another forty years is just foolish, or I just plain hate working with the yarn in question.  Anything that is not in one of the categories above is placed into a bin.  Every time I want to start a new project (which is every minute of every day) I force myself to finish one from the bin.  This method works most of time although once in a while I change the finish status of the UFO to frog just so that I can start something new!  The only one who really cares is me and I like crafting too much to work on something I hate.

Frog is next on the to do list.  All of the projects that I can’t bring myself to finish are set aside so that I can rip out, rewind and reuse the yarn.  This goes for the too old if the yarn is still nice, the ugly and will never fit anyone, again if the yarn is still nice and the I hate working with the yarn if it is because the yarn didn’t suit the pattern.  Maybe it just needs a larger or smaller needle or hook or to be paired with a contrast to dilute the impact.  I usually set aside an evening or two to accomplish restashing these never to be finished projects.

Fro is a hard one.  I, like any yarnie worth their salt, hate to throw away “good yarn” but have learned the hard way (remember I mentioned an avalanche?) that you just can’t keep everything.  Try throwing away a truly unlikeable project that you know you will never finish made with yarn that you will never like.  It is freeing in a way that you can’t imagine!  I have reached the point now where, when I look through my stash and wonder why I ever kept all of those ten metre or less pieces or even those part skeins of so-so yarn, I can gather them up and put them in the garbage can.  Yes, (and I can hear the response to wasting yarn) it is great to donate to charity groups but, if the yarn is too old or really awful to work with, why inflict it on someone else to work with or wear.

Get over the guilt and try your own purge and you will find that you may have some really lovely finished things, some really lovely recycled yarn and a great big space where all of the uglies lived!

New pattern alert: I have published a paid cardigan pattern on Ravelry this week.  It is lace and stocking stitch in multiple sizes.  Have a look!   http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/roses-and-lace-cardigan

Knitting

Okay, Part Two is Ready

Iris Rose

I have test knit part two of my Northern Rose Shawl and it is ready!  The pattern has changed slightly from the one in the photo as I have extended the lace patterning to the edges of the shawl at both the outside and centre areas.  I think that the finished look is nicer and more complete looking rather than having a straight knit part before the lace begins.  I hope that you enjoy this part of the shawl as much as I enjoyed creating it.  Part three will be up shortly.

Happy knitting!  Please keep in mind that webpage formatting is funny (not haha, either) and, in this case, will not allow me to use an asterix to mark the repeats.  Use the brackets as a guide.  Any stitches inside the brackets and in italics are to be repeated the given number of times.  Note also that the number of repeats grows as the width of the shawl grows.

Diamond Lace Section: you will maintain the centre lace panel while you are knitting the diamond lace on each side.

Row 1: K1, slip marker YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K to the next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 2 and every wrong side row: K all stitches, slipping markers as you come to them.

Row 3: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2), repeat two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K9, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1, (K2, SSK, YO, K9, YO, K2tog, K1), repeat two more times, K2, SSK, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 5: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K1,(K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1), repeat two more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, ( K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK) repeat  two more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 7: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat two more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, (S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO,) repeat two more times, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2togYO, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 9: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K3, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat two more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 11: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K4, YO, SSK, YO, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat two more times, K4, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 13: K1, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat three more times, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 15: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat three more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 17: K1, slip marker, YO, K8, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat three more times, K2, YO, SSK, K8, YO, slip marker, K1.

Rows 19: K1, slip marker, YO, K10, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, slip marker, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K5, slip marker, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, (K1, K2tog, YO, K9, YO, SSK, K2) repeat three more times, K1, K2tog, YO, K10, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 21: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, slip marker, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K4, slip marker, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K1, (K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1) repeat three more times, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 23: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K5, YO, slip marker, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K3, slip marker, YO, K5, (YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO,) repeat three more times, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 25: K1, slip marker, YO, K1, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, K3, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, slip marker, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K4, (K3, K2tog, YO, K5, YO, SSK, K4) repeat four more times, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 27: K1, slip marker, YO, K2, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K3, YO, SSK, K2 YO, SSK, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K2, slip marker, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K5, (K4, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K5) repeat four more times, K1, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 29: K1, slip marker, YO, K3, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K4, YO, SSK, K2, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, (YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K1) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 31: K1, slip marker, YO, K4, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, SSK, K2, YO, slip marker, K5, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K4, slip marker, YO, K2, K2tog, YO, K3, YO, K2tog, K2, (K1, YO, SSK, K3, YO, S2K1PSSO, YO, K3, K2tog, YO, K2) repeat four more times, K3, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 33: K1, slip marker, YO, K5, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K2, YO, SSK, K7, YO, slip marker, K6, YO, SSK, K2, YO, SSK, K6, slip marker, YO, K7, K2tog, YO, K3, (K2, YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K3) repeat four more times, K4, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 35: K1, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K to next marker, slip marker, YO, K to next marker, YO, slip marker, K1.

Row 36: K all stitches slipping markers as you come to them.

Change to the next colour now if you are making the shawl in three colours.  You will be using the edge markers still and you may wish to place markers between each lace repeat.  You will no longer be working the centre panel stitches as a separate lace pattern but will incorporate them into the same lace pattern as the two sides.  You can remove these markers as you work the first row.

The edging pattern will start with a twelve stitch pattern repeat and increase in two stitch increments to an eighteen stitch repeat as you come to the end.  Stitch markers are your friend!