Tag: wrap

Crochet, Knitting

New Pattern and Crocheted Edge for Last Week’s Freebie

Iris Rose

During the madness of my life (good madness not bad) this week, I have managed two things, well actually almost three. I have that crocheted edging pattern ready for you down below in the post that goes with the knitted cardigan pattern that I published last week. I have finished, but not written up, the cardigan knitted edging, can you say girly ruffles, and am very happy with it. The test knit is a size four and I am working on a two now before the pattern is complete.

      

Most importantly of all, I have, tada, finished the crocheted wrap that I have been teasing you with.  A Wrap for Spring is a paid pattern and is available for you to download on Ravelry in my store. If you act now (do I sound like an infomercial yet?) you can use the coupon code 50OFF at checkout to buy the pattern for half price until March 7th. That is a cool $2.50, such a deal!

I am still offering half off on my Gradient Cable Poncho and Northern Rose Shawl patterns as well. These are $2.50 with the same coupon code at checkout.


Now that I have given you my sales pitch, here is the promised edging for those of you who crochet as well as knit.

Crocheted Edge for Size 5/6 Cardigan:
This edging is crocheted all in one piece around all of the edges of the knit cardigan. Ideally you will only have the beginning and ending ends to weave in, my kind of project! As you will be switching from in the round to back and forth while you work, I have not broken the instructions down into rounds and rows. I will name the edges that are being crocheted on instead.

Tools: 5mm, US H/8 crochet hook, tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Materials: 100m or 110 yds worsted weight yarn in the same colour as knitted cardigan or a contrasting colour.
Abbreviations:         sc = single crochet           dc = double crochet
ch = chain                         sl st + slip stitch

With right side facing you, at the bottom left corner, join your yarn.

Bottom: Work 28 sc along the edge of the left front, 56 sc across the back, 28 sc across the right front. Work 1 sc in the same place as the last sc on the right front to make the corner.

Right Front: You will now make the buttonhole band. Work 36 sc evenly up the right front to the neck edge, ch 1 and turn. If you sc into the knots at the row ends rather than the bars, you should have 1 sc in each knot. This will also result in a firmer edge.

Working back down the right front into the sc edge that you just completed, 1sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, skip the next sc, 4sc in each of the next 4 sc, ch2, sc into each of the remaining 24 sc to the end, ch1 and turn. Here you have made three buttonholes.

Working back up to the neck edge, work 1sc into each sc and 1sc into each ch2 space of the prior row. Do not turn.
The front band is finished except for the scalloped edging which is done later.

Neck Edge: ch1 into the same place as your last sc of the front band, work 2sc evenly across the top of the band, work 14sc evenly across the right front neck, 18 sc across the back neck and 14sc across the left front neck, sc in corner to begin the left front band.

Left Front: Work 36sc evenly down the left front edge (right side facing), ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below, ch1 and turn.  Work 1sc in each sc below. Do not turn. You will be at the bottom edge where you started and the left front band is complete except for the scallops which come later.

Bottom: 1sc in same place as last sc to make the corner. Work 2sc evenly across the bottom of the band, then 1sc in each sc across the bottom to the right front, ch3 and turn.
The ch3 that you ended the last row with will represent a dc and ch1. Skip the first sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc seven times, (dc, ch1) in the next sc. This will make an increase to ease the finished edging around the curve of the bottom. Skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve, make the increase by working in the next sc and continue on with skip next sc, (dc, ch1) in every second sc to the next outside curve. Complete the row increasing at each outside curve (a total of four times), dc in last sc, ch1 and turn.  Working back across the bottom, sc in each dc and ch1 space. Do not turn.

You will now work the finished scalloped edge all around from the right front, across the neck, down the left front and across the bottom.

Right Front Scallops: skip the first sc on the right front, (5sc in next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next sc). Repeat the instructions in the brackets eight more times. Work 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc and sl st into the last sc.

Neck Edge: Work 1sc into each sc of the neck edge. Work 2sc evenly into the side of the left band at the end, sl st into the corner sc.

Left Front Scallops: Skip the first sc, 5sc into the next sc, skip the next sc, sl st into the next sc to the bottom. The last sl st should be in the bottom corner.

Bottom Scallops: Skip the first 2 sc in the row below, [(dc, ch1) four times, dc in the next sc, skip the next 2 sc, sl st into the next sc, skip the next 2 sc], repeat the instructions in the square brackets across to the end. Work the last repeat without the last skip 2 sc, just sl st into the last stitch on the bottom. Fasten off.

Sleeve Edge: Join yarn at the underarm seam and work 35 sc evenly into the sleeve edge.
Following the instructions for the Bottom Scallops, make six scallops around the sleeve edge. Fasten off. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Weave in your ends and block. Sew buttons on the left band to match the buttonholes on the right band.

Knitting

Foray into Machine Knitting

Iris Rose

This week, I thought that I would write about my third craft love, machine knitting.  I know that I have written about this in the past and I know that machine knitting is regarded by many as cheating or not requiring much skill, but nothing could be further from the truth.

I have caught up with my WIPs (actually ignoring the pile is more accurate) and decided to give the old standard gauge a whirl.  I have a couple of knitting machines, okay four, all of them Singers from the eighties, three are standard gauge and one is a bulky machine.  Three have matching ribbers.  My first machine was a gift and the others were just too tempting a price to refuse once I caught the bug.

Silk Noil Tank Top With Hand Crocheted Edging

I am self taught and learned before the era of Youtube and other helpful online resources.  I thought that using a machine would be breeze and, although I was already an accomplished crocheter and knitter at the time, I soon found out that this craft was a whole new ball game.  The instruction books that come with the machines are good but there is no substitute for hands on help with this type of knitting.  I joined a machine knitting group and that really helped to keep me going.  I have learned so much more these last few years through facebook groups and Youtube that I am light years ahead of where I was when I packed up my machines thirteen years ago.

A standard gauge knitting machine will handle yarn from very fine to about sport weight.  3ply and 4ply (sock) are the perfect weight in my opinion.  You can knit DK but it is a struggle and requires using only every other needle so is limiting in what you can make.  My favourite machine is my Singer 560 (I have two in case one dies on me) and has built in electronic patterning which was state of the art in 1984, the year it was made.

This last couple of weeks of been a fun test of all of the knowledge that I have acquired but not used recently.  I had rehabbed my machines a few months ago with new retainer bars and needles and, wow, what a difference!  I cast on without dropping everything on my toes and I was off.

    

Cashmere, Silk and Merino Wrap, the photo doesn’t do it justice!

The first thing that I made was a wrap for myself.  I collect yarn, did you know that?  I have a few, okay some, okay a lot, of luxury yarn on cones that I buy online from Colourmart in the UK.  I had a 150g cone of cashmere, silk, merino blend in a charcoal grey.  Perfect, I thought.  I played with some swatches (yes, you have to swatch for machine knitting too!) and settled on a simple tuck stitch pattern that gives the work some interest but allows the sheen of the yarn to come through.  Thirteen hundred rows later I had a gorgeous wrap that only required some crochet around the edge to stop the curl.  Three thousand single crochet stitches later and my wrap was done.  It is really lovely, soft and drapey, and is my new favourite wrap.

Bunny Hop Cardigan

Well, the simple work was done, and I ventured on to something more challenging.  I didn’t keep the patterns that I had written long ago but remembered enough to work out a simple girl’s cardigan.  Having a lot of sewing experience in garment construction really can make a difference in success or failure when designing for another craft.  A border of bunnies across the bottom above the ribbing made the sweater.  I still needed to block everything and sew it together but, when that was done, it is really cute and I am proud of the way it turned out.

Cable Sweater Back, Unblocked

Next up is a more complicated pullover with hand manipulated cables and raglan sleeves.  I had no trouble with the back but, of course, thinking that this would be a breeze, I needed to reknit the front a few times.  All in the learning curve I guess but whew, I was glad when it was done.  I have completed a sleeve and am working on the second.  I should be done this weekend, yay!

    

Wrap Knit from a Youtube Video, this took some patience but was fun!

If you think that machine knitting might be for you, I highly, highly recommend that you join a group in your area if you can find one.  I did that when I first started and it really does make a big difference in continuing or quitting in frustration.  Youtube is your friend and an active facebook group will keep you inspired and encourage you to keep going.

Knitting

New Shawl But Not Yet So Here is Another One

Iris Rose

 

I have been working on a Shetland/Faroese shawl that I wanted to have finished by today.  Sadly, that is not going to happen.

I was working away at the final few rows and realized that I had made a mistake six or seven rows back on the longest part of the knitting.  Add to that, I am making the monster with a mohair blend yarn that is more than slightly fuzzy.  I also realized that writing a new pattern at the same time as knitting it and watching TV is a surefire recipe for disaster!

Once I recovered from my little temper tantrum and picked the shawl back up, I toyed with the idea of just ripping back the few stitches in question and reknitting them.  Simple, right?  I was wrong, oh so wrong to assume that this would be an easy fix.  I have done this before with cables and simple stitch patterns with great success but lace is a little more tricky than that.  All I have done is created a huge mess that I will have to rip all of the work back to and now I don’t love this shawl anymore.

Long story short, there will no new lace shawl pattern this week.  I do have photos of the work in progress so that you can see what to expect next week and also so that you can see my harebrained idea on how I should repair this oops the lazy way.

Just so that you don’t feel that I have let you down completely (although you didn’t know that the pattern was coming so I have not only not produced what I wanted to but now I have spoiled the surprise as well!) here is an alternative., my Textured Wrap pattern.

This wrap is knitted long ways and is a great way to use up those really lovely but single skeins of yarn that you (or at least I) buy just because they are too pretty to leave in the store but what the heck do you do with them now.  It has enough changes in pattern, simple pattern stitches, really, to keep the work interesting but you can still multitask a bit.  Pick out a palette of coordinating yarns and enjoy knitting this cozy wrap!

Textured Wrap

Size: 16 in x 76 in or 40 cm x 195cm

Gauge: 16 stitches x 24 rows = 4″ or 10cm, note: gauge is not critical for this piece but should be close to achieve the correct size.

Materials:10 50gr balls of worsted or dk weight yarn (90 to 140 yds or 80 to 125 m per ball,  I used 2 black, 2 dark brown, 2 blue tweed, 1 variegated, 1 heather, 1 light rust tweed, 1 multicoloured mini pompom).

Tools: One US 9 or 5.5 mm circular needle.  Shawl is knit back and forth but you will need a circular needle to hold all of the stitches and to allow you join yarn at opposite end of the work from the last colour worked.

Bobbles: Large bobbles are made in one stitch as follows:

In the same stitch k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p2tog, p1, p2tog, turn, k3tog.

Small bobbles are made as follows:

In the same stitch, k1, yo, k1, turn, p3, turn, k3tog.

With black yarn cast on 280 stitches and work 4 rows of garter stitch.

Change to mini pompom yarn and work 5 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to dark brown yarn on the wrong side and work 7 rows of stocking stitch.

Next row (right side): k11, make large bobble in 12th st, k11 repeat * to * to end.

Purl 1 row.

Change to blue tweed yarn and k5, make a large bobble, k11, repeat * to * to 6 st remaining, make a large bobble, k5.

Work 8 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to black yarn on the wrong side and k 1 row.

Change to variegated yarn and work 5 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to heather yarn on the wrong side and k 1 row.

Change to blue yarn on the wrong side and knit 1 row.

Change to heather yarn on the wrong side and k 1 row.

Change to blue yarn on the wrong side and knit 1 row.

Change to heather yarn on the wrong side and k 1 row

Work 2 rows of stocking stitch.

Work 6 rows of basket weave stitch in a 2 x 2 pattern:

Row 1: k2, p2

Row 2: p2, k2

Row 3: p2, k2

Row 4: k2, p2

Row 5: k2, p2

Row 6: p2, k2

Work 3 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to black on the wrong side and work 3 rows of reverse stocking stitch, (knit 1 row on wrong side, purl 1 row on right side and knit 1 row on wrong side).

Change to light brown tweed yarn on the wrong side and purl 1 row.

Next right side row, k4, make a small bobble, k9 repeat * to * to 5 stitches remaining, make a small bobble and k4.

Purl 1 row.

Change to black on the wrong side and work 3 rows of reverse stocking stitch as above.

Change to variegated yarn on the right side and work 3 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to dark brown yarn on the right side and work 4 rows of stocking stitch.

Next right side row, k8, slip crochet hook into last stitch on right hand needle and pull off, ch6, slip st into the back loop of the 2nd ch from hook, slip st into back loop of remaining 4 ch, slip loop on hook back onto right hand needle, k8, repeat * to * until 8 st remain, k8.

Work 3 row of stocking stitch.

Next right side row, k4, repeat * to * as above until 5 stitches remain, work crochet and k4.

Work 3 rows stocking stitch,

Change to mini pompom yarn and work 4 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to black yarn and work 2 rows of reverse stocking stitch.

Change to blue tweed yarn and work 4 rows of stocking stitch.

Next right side row, k9, make a large bobble, k19 repeat to * to * until 11 stitches remain, make a large bobble and k10.

Purl 1 row on wrong side.

Next right side row, k19, make a large bobble, k19 repeat * to * to end.

Work 4 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to heather yarn on the right side and work 2 rows of stocking stitch.

Change to black yarn and work 4 rows of garter stitch.

Cast off loosely.

Finish Ends: finish the short sides to match the border on the long sides.  With blue tweed yarn on the right side and starting at the edge of the first colour after the black border, pick up and knit 52 stitches along the edge ending before the last black border. Knit 1 row back on wrong side.

With black yarn, pick up and knit 3 stitches on the edge of the black border, k52 blue stitches and pick up and knit 3 stitches on the black border.

Work 3 rows of garter stitch and cast off loosely.

Repeat this work at the opposite short side to finish the wrap.

Weave in all those pesky ends and block lightly.  I pressed mine rather than stretching it to maintain the texture and weight.

Abbreviations:

Knitting:                      k = knit

p = purl

yo = yarn over

k2tog = knit 2 st together

p2tog = purl 2 st together

k3tog = knit 3 st together

Crochet:                      ch = chain

slip st = slip stitch