There are times when life becomes a little overwhelmingly busy and you need to step back from the things that you love but are really not essential to everyday life. Blogging is one of those things for me. I love to write and to share the things that I design and make but, in the big picture, I don’t survive on writing and the last couple of months fit the step back profile.
I have not been idle, however. I can’t not craft so even a little bit of doing creeps into most days. I found a charity that distributes warm hats, scarves, and mitts to school kids in disadvantaged parts of the city and decided to embrace the hat.
Knitting simple hats is a soothing and calming way to spend a bit of everyday. I love to match colours, double yarn, add patterns, and fancy up the ribbing. There are so many ways you can turn a simple hat pattern into a unique toque. This also a great way to use up some stash!
The adult basic pattern for these hats was published in a blog post here three years ago. I used the basic pattern and adjusted it for kids of all sizes using the six stitch formula that is explained in the pattern. I have included the pattern again at the end of this post to save you searching through my site.
I have set a goal because who can work without a goal, not me, so I am working at one hundred items for this year. The donations are sent out in November so I started the year in mid December. I am up to twenty-three hats and a couple of scarves so far. These photos are a little sample of what I hope to accomplish by mid summer.
Basic Adult Winter Toque:
Yarn: Worsted weight 130m (143yds) 5.5mm or 6mm (US 9 or 10), 40cm circular needle
Aran or Chunky 110m (121yds) 6.5mm (US 10.5), 40cm (16”) circular needle
Bulky 95m (105yds) 8mm (US11), 40cm (16”) circular needle
You will need DPN’s in the same size to shape the crown or a same size longer circular needle for Magic Loop. You will also need a stitch marker and a tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.
Cast on 84, (78, 72) stitches and join to work in the round. Place a marker at the join. Work 18, (16, 14) rounds of ribbing. My favourite is K2, P1 as this makes a nice stretchy ribbing like a 1 x 1 but is still a little different looking. It also lets you twist the knit stitches for a faux cable look. Continue knitting in rounds until 30, (28, 26) rounds of stocking stitch have been worked. Start decreases for the crown. Divide your working stitches by six so 84 stitches will result in decreasing by K12, K2together six times. You will decrease 78 stitches by K11, K2together six times and with 72 stitches you will work K10, K2together six times. Next round, knit all stitches. Continue decreasing every second round by working one stitch less between the K2togethers each consecutive decrease round. Switch to DPN’s or Magic Loop when the stitches are too taut on the needle. End at K1, K2together (12 stitches remaining) and, cutting a 15cm or 6” end, thread the end through the remaining stitches and gather them up off of the needles(s). I like to thread the tail through to the wrong side and fasten it off securely inside. Weave your beginning end and any ends from colour changes etc., and you are done.
Add a pompom for an up to date look or tassels to make it vintage looking. Make it in stripes, a good way to use up part skeins, or with a self-striping yarn. You can modify this pattern with a fancy stitch, but you will have to figure out how to work that into the decreases. You can also adapt the pattern for finer yarn by increasing the number of cast on stitches, decreasing the needle size to suit, and keep your stitch count always divisible by six to keep the crown decrease in a nice shape.
I use this same formula for kid’s hats, decreasing the number of cast on stitches by six for 5 to 9 year old and 12 for younger. Even smaller for babies is possible with another six less stitches.
